Master's Thesis
“The Lost Caviare Days”
– Gastronomy and Alcoholism in Fitzgerald's Tender is the Night
Author: Karolina Eugenes Supervisor: Niklas Salmose Examiner: Johan Höglund Date: 2019-06-14 Subject: English
Level: Advanced, 30 Credits Course code: 5EN01E
Abstract
This thesis investigates the portrayal of gastronomy in F. Scott Fitzgerald's Tender is the Night. The discussion is based on the ideas “we are what we eat” and “we are where we eat”
and the premise that Fitzgerald creates a significant association to gastronomy by way of the critical field of Food Studies, which divide the arguments into three different subcategories:
Firstly, it presents the principals of Food Studies and stylistics, which focus on literary
stylistic devices such as aesthetics and figurative language. Particularly, the analysis examines that a close reading of the novel is futile without further considerations of contextuality.
Hence, it deals with the text in terms of textuality and contextuality. Secondly, the novel deals with food as a reflection of ethical behaviour and social class, where it examines that
appearance is as significant as money. Further, it investigates the cultural influences in terms of adaption of food preferences in different environmental settings. Thirdly, it explores the association between the concept of psychopathology, mood and the absence of gourmandise in parallel to alcoholism, emotional bankruptcy, escapism and nostalgia. Finally, this thesis seeks to examine that Fitzgerald is “authoring gastronomy” in similar fashion as food critics.
Key Words
Aesthetics, Alcoholism, Class, Drinks, Fitzgerald, Food, Gastronomy, Psychopathology, Stylistics,
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Acknowledgements
I would like to thank Niklas Salmose for his professional and enthusiastic mentoring; Stina Hultberg and Julia Winblad for their heartening company and daily encouragement including numerous coffees and laughs at the University Library; and Jacob Karlegatt for his warm and continual support during my writing process.
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Table of Contents
Preface... 1
Amuse Bouche: An Introduction... 3
Caviare and Champagne: Previous Research and Limitations... 10
Introduction to the Field of Food Studies... 10
Food Studies and Stylistics... 12
Food Studies and Class... 16
Food Studies and Psychopathology... 17
Saffron Seasoned Soup: Senses and Stylistics... 22
A Warm Taste of Gastronomy: Ambiguous Adjectives and Food... 22
Slow Burning Passion: Identity and Food... 30
Round Taste and Delicious Voice: Synesthesia and Food... 32
Entree: A Fumbling Snobbery... 36
Chief Sign of Culture: Class and Etiquette... 36
Eating Europe: Cultural Conditioning and Eating Habits... 43
Le Plat Principal: Uncharacteristic Bursts of Temper... 49
Cause and Effect: Alcohol as a Form of Escapism... 49
Cultural Context: Prohibition and Wet and Dry Cultures... 52
Emotional Bankruptcy: Alcohol as a Central Ingredient... 56
Fromage: the Absence of Gourmandise... 60
Taste and Tastelessness: Psychopathology and Nostalgia... 60
Petit Fours: A Sweet Conclusion... 68
Notes... 71
Works Cited... 73
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PREFACE
Due to a nine year experience in the food and beverage industry, I have a penchant for gastronomy. I have been working as a bartender and waitress beside my studies during these five years as a literature student in order to show my interests and gain experience in the gastronomic field. Hence, I chose to combine my two main interests literature and gastronomy in this thesis. My intention is to utilise the French gastronomic vocabulary e.g. words and expressions that I have learned through my experience within the food and beverage industry and incorporate them in my close reading and analysis of F. Scott Fitzgerald's Tender is the Night. The gastronomic motif appears throughout the novel, as it is primarily set on the French Riviera and that it frequently refers to French cuisine which is greatly significant in the Western gastronomic sphere. As a result, the structure of the category titles in this thesis reflect the order of a seven course menu in order to enhance the gastronomic authenticity which the novel offers. Firstly, in the section “Amuse Bouche: An Introduction” I aim to open up the reader's senses and curiosity just as an amuse bouche prepares and cleanses the palate before a dinner. Secondly, in “Caviare and Champagne: Previous research and Limitations”
1I will reflect the purpose of caviare and champagne during degustation which usually serves as a palate refreshment, although in writing I would rather refer to it as a memory refreshment.
Thirdly, “Saffron Seasoned Soup: Senses and Stylistics”
2is based on one of the French
degustation menu model where the third course often consists of a soup, hence the name. The
fourth section “Entree: A Fumbling Snobbery” will concern passages reflecting the upper
class in terms of food and beverage choices. Followed by “Le Plat Principal: Uncharacteristic
Burst of Temper” which will primarily focus on Book III and highlight Dick's alcoholism and
emotional bankruptcy. After main course comes cheese, which neutralises the palate's acid
levels after the dinner. Hence, in the section “Fromage: the Absence of Gourmandise” the
focus will be to slowly round up the analysis and to neutralise the reader's senses through a
discussion of the Diver's malfunctioned marriage. The last meal and sweet ending of this
thesis, “Petit Fours: A Sweet Conclusion” will function as a conclusion which will summarise
the arguments and present the study results.
AMUSE BOUCHE: AN INTRODUCTION
“Into the dark, smoky restaurant, smelling of the rich raw foods on the buffet, slid Nicole's sky-blue suit like a stray segment of the weather outside” – Tender is the Night (63)
In Food Studies and Literature, Tigner and Carruth define the concept of “authoring
gastronomy” as something that usually refers to food criticism. They do however, contrast the methods of food critics and professional eaters, to novelist's “technique of trope, persona, scene-setting, and storytelling that restaurant reviews employ as well as in the detailed descriptions of dining scenes that pervade fictional texts” (Tigner and Carruth 138). Hence, the main argument builds upon the idea that novelists tend to focus on gastronomy in a similar fashion as food critics focus on restaurant reviews. Tigner and Carruth extend the comparison as they demonstrate that food critics aim to “create sensorial and sociological maps that make cuisine a window onto matters of class, consumerism, labor, leisure, and human-nonhuman entanglements, and they employ literary tools to re-imagine places through the lens of cuisine” (137). In fiction, novelists such as Virginia Woolf, Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce
3and F. Scott Fitzgerald, tend to illustrate this “window” where the characters' eating habits highlight social and cultural contexts.
The contextuality is especially transparent in Tender is the Night, which depicts strong
connections to France in terms of characters who master the French language, indulge
themselves in French cuisine, and consume great amounts of wine. One example is the
consistent appearance of familiar gastronomical luxuries of the upper class such as “caviare
and champagne” (Fitzgerald and West III 53; 190) or “a bouillabaisse” which the Divers
enjoy together with “a bottle of cold Chablis” (187). Bell refers to such portrayals as the “art
of life” (314) referring to the pleasures of the leisure class. In contrast, researchers have traced
significant patterns in Fitzgerald's novels, particularly characteristics of the upper class as symbolic reflections of historical events such as Prohibition. In Tender is the Night, such representations are portrayed through the characters' heavy drinking which stresses the non- glamorous overconsumption of alcohol. As Dick is “averaging a half pint of alcohol a day”
(178) and Abe's drinking “made past happy things contemporary with the present, as if they were still going on, contemporary even with the future as if they were about to happen again”
(Fitzgerald and West III 71), the narrative emphasises consumption of alcohol as a kind of escapism. Additionally, Tender is the Night deals with alcoholism in correlation to mental illness which both result in the characters' “emotional bankruptcy” as they become “unable to respond to the events that require true emotion” (Bruccolli 289). In a gastronomical context an investigation of alcoholism, class and mental illness becomes essential, since it equally represents the glamorous and non-glamorous lifestyle of the main characters.
Tender is the Night involves the characters Rosemary Hoyt, the beautiful eighteen year old actress, and the married upper class-couple Nicole and Dick Diver. Similarly to Fitzgerald's other characters
4, Rosemary, Dick and Nicole are attending social events in form of luncheons and parties at fancy hotels and restaurants which mirrors their affiliation to the American upper class. In addition to the main characters, there is a minor character who based on my interpretation greatly contributes to the story, namely Abe North, Dick's close friend who drinks heavily and dies in a speakeasy. Further, the original version which is used in the Cambridge edition of the novel, is divided into three separated parts in a non-chronological order: Book I revolves primarily around Rosemary and when she meets the Divers. Soon, she falls in love with Dick and an ambiguity occurs in form of the sexual tension between
Rosemary and Dick. Simultaneously, Rosemary claims that “[she's] in love with [Dick] and
Nicole” (Fitzgerald 74).
5Further, Book I occasionally foreshadows Nicole's mental illness which is the main theme in the following part of the book. In Book II, the setting changes from the French Riviera to a Swiss psychiatric clinic. It reveals the background to Nicole's mental illness which shows to be an incestuous sexual abuse by her father in her young age.
Additionally, Book II focuses on how Dick and Nicole met and how their relationship developed. It ends with the setting changing back to the French Riviera, where Dick and Rosemary continue their affair and make love for the first time. Shortly after however, he gets jealous and becomes drunk in the hotel lobby which suggests foreshadowing of the primary theme of Book III where Dick falls into a melancholic trap of alcoholism. Further, Book III concentrates on relationship between Dick and Nicole which is falling into pieces due to Dick's alcoholism and poor attitude towards their friends. As a result, Nicole meets Tommy Barban, a French-American soldier with whom she soon initiates an affair. Shortly after, Dick and Nicole get a divorce, she marries Tommy and Dick disappears to the state of New York to practice medicine.
The primary idea of this thesis is to analyse the illustration of gastronomic terms and
concepts, and to demonstrate their central function in Fitzgerald's novel Tender is the Night.
In order to highlight those, I created a concept called gastronomic stylistics. It stresses the idea of aesthetics as a crucial device which enhances the reading experience and the
fundamentality of interpretation. I argue that the gastronomic stylistics in Tender is the Night,
refer to the ambiguous adjectives such as minced, glazed and caked, which bear different
interpretational meanings dependent on the reader's focus. Primarily, the concept of
gastronomic stylistics, shows that Fitzgerald uses gastronomic motifs in similar fashion as
food critics are “authoring gastronomy.” Firstly, it explores gastronomic references through a
focus on stylistics, such as word choices and figurative language. Secondly, it suggests that the characters' food preferences reflect their social class and that the European environment influence their eating and drinking habits. Thirdly, through a connection to the cognitive term psychopathology, it describes the loss of appetite and decrease of shared meals as a result of mental illness, alcoholism and escapism. Further, it suggests that the gastronomic references strongly enhance the reading as they evoke the reader's senses such as taste and smell. Finally, this thesis is based on Stanley Fish's reader-response theory, which focuses on the relationship between the text and the reader. He argues that “the concept is simply the rigorous and
disinterested asking of the question, what does this word, phrase, sentence, paragraph, chapter, novel, play poem, do?; and the execution involves an analysis of the developing responses of the reader…” (Fish 126). Hence, the method depends on a close reading of particular word choices and word combinations, in order to trace what the constructed sentences do, as much as what they mean (Fish 125). As a result, the reader-response approach offers a profound interpretation of how the gastronomic references affect the comprehension of the novel as a whole. The close readings do primarily consider passages regarding gastronomic references including luncheons, buffets, bars and food and drink pairings. By this I would like to stress that it does not consider possible connections to Fitzgerald's personal life but rather focus on the text it-self and its contextuality, in form of social and cultural influences of the time when the novel was written.
Just as The Beautiful and Damned, Tender is the Night illustrates how Fitzgerald “employed
depictions of food and eating as symbols of his characters’ shallowness and frivolity” (Searles
14). Further, the novel portrays that similarly to the parties in The Great Gatsby, the dinner
parties in Tender is the Night depict an “intoxicating mixture of champagne, bathtub gin and
bootlegger whiskey, mixed with devastating characters” (Burrell). As a result, this thesis investigates the three parts of the novel in parallel to each other in order to show the frequent overlapping between the glamorous and non-glamorous lifestyle.
In order to highlight the significance of gastronomy in the complete novel, I have borrowed a number of key concepts from Food Studies and gastronomy, Food Studies and psychology and stylistic literary criticism, which will create a base for my individual theoretical
framework, primarily built upon Brillat-Savarin's concept of “we are what we eat” and Bell and Valentine's perception “we are where we eat.”
9Nevertheless, the focus on gastronomy among Fitzgerald researchers is profoundly limited. George J. Searles' article “The Symbolic Function of Food and Eating in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Beautiful and Damned” belongs to the minority of gastronomic research examining the importance of food and drinks in Fitzgerald's novel. Searles' ideas are closely related to the main arguments in this thesis regarding the method of close reading and focus on gastronomy. His article is therefore a significant source which complements my own thoughts on Tender is the Night.
Simultaneously, Melissa Faith Dullaghan uses the method of close reading and New Criticism
in her thesis “'Pleasant Episodes' of Gastronomy: Food and Drink in F. Scott Fitzgerald's The
Beautiful and Damned” where she analyses the main characters Anthony and Gloria Patch
and their relationship to food and drinks. Dullaghan believes that the frequent referencing to
the pleasures of gastronomy depict “decadence, provides insight into the psychological
compositions of their characters, and contributes to the coherence and aestheticism of the
novel” (6). She further considers Fitzgerald's language such as the choice of adjectives, names
of characters and places which are strongly connected to gastronomy in order to stress the
concealed references to food and drinks. After reading Searles' and Dullaghan's interpretations
of The Beautiful and Damned, I wondered if the same stylistic analysis could be applied on Tender is the Night, and there are indeed many similarities. I would therefore like to follow a similar path and continue to emphasise the richness of gastronomic content in another of Fitzgerald's novels, where I believe he is explicitly “authoring gastronomy.” I will expand on this in the following sections.
Food Studies could in short terms be described as the study of food and society in symbiosis.
It is an academic field which concerns scientific questions about food, drinks and eating habits. As Spiegel argues “this new academic field, [took] shape in an expanding number of colleges and universities, coordinates the food-related instruction sprinkled throughout academia in recognition that food is not just relevant, but critical to dozens of disciplines”
(Spiegel). In this context, Spiegel's statement explicitly emphasises that Food Studies holds a complexity in not offering a clear definition as much as it is strongly connected to other academic fields. The scientific aspects within Food Studies vary profoundly and concern all from the ethics of food and dining, food as identity, food preparation as cultural tradition and more. The broad variation of interests within Food Studies is the reason why Food Studies could be described as an interdisciplinary academic field which is dependent on other fields such as art, literature, history and science. Food Studies as such therefore becomes rather complex to define and needs to be presented together with other fields such as Food Studies and gastronomy or Food Studies and psychology in order to clarify its focus.
The theoretical approach in this thesis is based on the idea that gastronomy is the “…science
of eating well…”
7(Tigner and Carruth 137). Within the gastronomic field of Food Studies,
there are several theoretical approaches which focus on food and consumption through
sociological effects and cultural influences for instance. I refer to these in the passages regarding class and environment. Regarding stylistics, the discussion in this thesis shows that gastronomic references appear through the use of language and ambiguous adjectives such as
“minced” and “glazed”. Also, in terms of characters' names such as Rosemary and Evelyn
Oyster, to which I pay particular attention in order to demonstrate the significance of
gastronomy throughout the novel. Further, the psychological approach of Food Studies is
concerned with eating habits and their effect on the mind and body, which is essential in the
section regarding psychopathological references in the novel. Additionally, regarding the non-
glamourous gastronomic illustrations and destructive outcomes of alcohol, the focus is strictly
on Dick Diver since he is the character who appears most frequently in scenes including food
and drinks in general. I do however also support the discussion with passages involving Abe
North in the later part of the analysis, since he also appears in a great amount of passages
which include alcohol. The idea is then to compare Dick and Abe's drinking habits and
analyse how it affected their lives and relationships to the other characters.
CAVIARE AND CHAMPAGNE: PREVIOUS RESEARCH AND THEORIES
“First we eat, then we do everything else” – M.F.K. Fisher
In the following section, I present some of the primary texts within Food Studies in order to create an overview of different approaches within the philosophical, cultural and
gastronomical discourse. Later in this segment, the focus lies directly on Food Studies and literature, exploring how previous scholars have studied gastronomic references in modern literature. Finally, I introduce different key concepts which I have borrowed from different published documents within Food Studies.
Introduction to the field of Food Studies
Gastronomy as an academic genre in Europe, has its roots in the beginning of the nineteenth century. The author Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, a French politician and gastronome did not only give name to the triple-cream brie cheese, but is also a co-founder of this particular genre. Firstly published in 1825 France, Brillat-Savarin's handbook has been used as a
fundamental reference frame to many scholarly articles regarding gastronomy, philosophy and literature. An abundance of modern gastronomic texts, not least within Food Studies, derive from the ideas of Brillat-Savarin. It is therefore crucial to include his theories in this paper because his ideas regarding appetite and the physiological sensations are of great importance during close reading of gastronomic terms. Brillat-Savarin's ideas will primarily function as a complement to Fish's reader-response theory as the gastronomic motifs in Fitzgerald's novel predominantly provoke the reader's senses during reading. Based on his saying “tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are”
7his study is based on the significance of our senses:
sight, hearing, scent, taste, touch and a sixth one, genesiac “which attracts the sexes to each
other, and the object of which is the reproduction of the species” (Brillat-Savarin 57).
Together with anecdotes, recipes and reflections revolving around gastronomy, Brillat- Savarin's ideas are primarily based on the examination and sensation of taste. Brillat-Savarin highlights thirst and appetite as physiological sensations where he creates a connection between the consumption of food and drinks to imagination, feelings and memories. In other words, Brillat-Savarin's notion of gastronomy is highly suitable for this thesis since it
primarily depicts how consumption of food and drinks affect the characters in Tender is the Night.
Food Studies as an interdisciplinary field however, can be traced back to the 1960s. During
this period of time, anthropologists such as Claude Lévi-Strauss and Massimo Montanari
studied the connection between food and social or cultural structures, in contrast to Brillat-
Savarin who primarily focused on the physiological sensation of gastronomy. Claude Lévi-
Strauss created a fundamental concept of “a culinary triangle”
6by dividing food into three
main categories: raw, cooked and rotten, which represented the natural state and remained
unchangeable world wide. Later on, he added three subcategories: roasted, smoked and boiled
which differed world wide due to cultural influences and variations in preparing food (Levi-
Strauss 34). The primary focus of the triangle was to examine the significance of the natural
elements such as air, water and fire in parallel to cultural structures and “different modes of
cooking” (Levi-Strauss 41). In contrast to Levi-Strauss, Montanari was a historically rather
than structurally based anthropologist where his writing presents an interdisciplinary mixture
of folklore, literature, linguistics, nutrition and medicine. He believed that everything that
concerns food including plantation, harvest, consumption, preparation etc. is strongly
connected to culture. In Food is Culture, Montanari states that “human societies have never
simply adapted to the conditions imposed by the environment. At times societies have
modified them, sometimes in profound ways, introducing cultures from outside the indigenous areas and changing the landscape itself” (Montanari 6).
Nevertheless, it was not until the mid 1990s that Food Studies emerged as a collective term to describe an authorised field of academic study (Spiegel). This includes a growing interest in the portrayals of gastronomy in literature where scholars argued that “literary texts do not just transmit or depict food cultures and food practices: they also help to structure them” (Tigner and Carruth 1). The idea of food and structure is compelling to this thesis since it partially focuses on food consumption and eating habits as a result of social structures and cultural influences. Scholars within Food Studies further observe that “because literature is a
reflection of life, gastronomy logically features to a large extent in plays, poetry and fiction”
(Maher 1). In light of that, research of gastronomic features in literature has shown significant connections between the portrayal of food and drinks as a reflection of the plot, setting, characters and contemporary gastronomic trends.
Food Studies and Gastronomic Stylistics
The general idea of stylistics refers to literary devices such as metaphors, imagery or
personification. The Czech aesthetician Jan Mukarovsky, believed that aesthetics are “crucial characteristic of any work of art” (41). He coined the term “foregrounding” as a device for interpretation between the “…basic meaning [and] figurative and metaphorical meaning;”
(52). This thesis builds upon Mukarovsky's theory in close readings of passages of figurative
language illustrated in Tender is the Night, which parallels the basic meaning of adjectives to
their metaphorical meaning.
Furthermore, the section illustrating stylistics and close reading builds upon Stanley Fish's
“reader-response” theory based on two primary questions: First, “what does this sentence mean?” Second, “what does this sentence do?” (Fish 125). It resembles Keshmiri, Mahdikhani and Pardis' belief that Fitzgerald indeed uses stylistics which “evoke sensory responses in the reader” (83). It further mimics Ramsden's concept of eating as a “multi-sensory experience”
which stresses the idea that we eat with our eyes (Ramsden). In similar fashion, Gigante believes that smell and taste has a lower standing in the hierarchy of senses. She explains
“shared ideals” (3) as perceptions which generally look or sound the same to everyone. In comparison, she argues that taste and smell are highly individual, which is why the focus on taste and smell diminishes within the literary and philosophical discourse (Gigante 3).
Gigante's and Ramsden's ideas are of great significance in the discussion regarding gastronomic stylistics and colour descriptions.
In addition, recent debates in literary criticism discuss the methodological trends of
textualising and contextualising (Hestetun 28). Textualising “tends to focus exclusively on text and intertextuality” (Hestetun 28). Its primary interest lies on the formality in terms of language and aesthetics (Hestetun 28). Contextualising, does however refer to cultural and social contexts (Hestetun 28). This thesis aims to blend the two aspects of textuality and contextuality in order to create a profound understanding of the complete novel.
Gastronomic stylistics are also illustrated through the characters' food and beverage
preferences. The section concerning synesthesia and food, is based on Jones' and Mark's
belief that humans feed on metaphors and that eating per se creates multi-sensory sensations,
which Fitzgerald illustrates through synesthetic metaphors in Tender is the Night. In
particular, the section will expand on Marks concept of “synesthetic metaphor” which
“employs the language of one sensory or perceptual domain to transfer meaning to another domain” (Marks 15). Further, Searle argues that “the semantic consequence is that you can take familiar words with familiar meanings and get completely new semantic units, new meaningful sentence, whose meanings you have never encountered before, but will
understand immediately given that you understand the meanings of the words and the rules for combining them” (644-45, emphasis added). Searle's theory complements Mukarovsky's concept of foregrounding in the comparison between basic and metaphorical meanings of Fitzgerald's gastronomic sentences. In similar fashion, Kyla Wazana Tompkins' presents a view where “meals structure narrative” (246) which parallels the belief that Tender is the Night is strongly influenced by the particular meals which the characters consume throughout the novel. The characters' gastronomic preferences become crucial because they reflect their eating habits and social status. Hence, gastronomy becomes a stylistic device and something that structures the narrative. Further, Dullaghan argues that “…Fitzgerald understands the sensuous power of writing refreshment, and that it is integral to an illustration of decadence”
(4). Dullaghan's statement emphasises the accuracy of Fitzgerald's language and how it
explicitly highlights the presence of gastronomic references through poetic language and
particular meals. The gastronomic stylistics in the current thesis do however refer to both food
and drinks consumed in the novel. Hence, it is necessary to emphasise that in my discussion,
Tompkin's idea of “meals” includes both. As Brillat-Savarin states, “the sensation of thirst is
so intense, that in all tongues it is synonymous with excessive desire, and irrepressible
longing: thus we thirst for gold, wealth, power, science…” (197). In light of that, the
connection between thirst and desire, is primarily discussed in scenes regarding Dick and
Rosemary's obvious sexual tension where champagne is of great significance.
Examples of gastronomic key concepts are found in Nicole J. Camastra's article “I Was Made To Eat”, where she uses Brillat-Savarin's terms gourmandise, amour physique and spiritual satiety, in order to examine the significance of food in Hemingway’s A Farewell to Arms in a way that is similarly applicable on Tender is the Night. Gourmandise is, according to Brillat- Savarin, “a passionate [food] preference” (203). It is a great appreciation of food which should however not be mistaken for gluttony (Brillat-Savarin 203). Amour physique however, defines sexual desire (Camastra 86). The term derives from Brillat-Savarin's description of the sixth sense, the genesiac sense, which examines that “all that is most delicate and ingenious is due to the desire, to hope, or to gratitude, in connexion with the union of the sexes” (Brillat- Savarin 54). Further, Camastra introduces the concept of spiritual satiety, which she describes as “a religious feeling” where “eating acquires a teleological function” (89, 91). Camastra makes a connection between the two main characters' amour physique and their health and happiness. She examines the importance of food and drinks in Frederic and Catherine's relationship which she suggests are strongly connected to their well being. Similarly, this thesis suggests that there is a strong amour physique between Dick and Rosemary, since their relationship is primarily driven by sexual desire. Further, Camastra states that the love
between Frederic and Catherine in A Farewell to Arms is based on their gourmandise and the
significance of shared meals. When the woman in the relationship dies however, the man is
left alone and “his continued hunger assures him that he can endure his suffering” (Camastra
91). Through the concept of gourmandise, this thesis explores the Diver's relationship as it
portrays a great significance of shared meals. The analysis shows that when the Diver's
relationship is cheerful and healthy, the couple dine together frequently. In contrast however,
when the relationship falls apart due to Dick's alcoholism and inappropriate behaviour, there
is an absence of shared meals and hence the idea of the Diver's gourmandise disappears.
Food Studies and Class.
Regarding the portrayal of social class in Tender is the night, it is important to highlight a number of ideas from scholars within Food Studies. Firstly, I consider Anita Mannur's view that “…the relation between literary characters and food evinces race and social class, often in symbolic terms” (395) in parallel to Brillat-Savarin's statement that “gastronomy…has to do with all classes of society” (93). I aim to expand these ideas and explore the inevitable
relationship between gastronomy and class. In order to demonstrate that gastronomy and class indeed occur in symbiosis in the novel, the section echoes Bell's belief that the frequent parties and gastronomic luxuries illustrate “the art of life” (314). It strictly considers
characters' food and drink choices as a reflection of the upper class lifestyle as a response to
Fussell's statement that social class has to do with appearance and habits as much as with
money (27). It further mimics Gigante's concept of “gustatory aspects” which explains the
ideal food and drink pairings in Tender is the Night. In addition, the close reading of food and
wine pairings, examines Asimov's description of Chablis as upper class wine. It further
investigates the significance of another frequently consumed drink, champagne. Repeatedly,
champagne appears in scenes including Rosemary and Dick which stresses their amour
physique, (Fitzgerald and West III 72-76) where it primarily emphasises its role as a “social
lubricant” (Todd 179). Finally, this section deals with Piff et. al and Seibold's associations
between class and attitude, as they discuss arrogance, greed and unethical behaviour as
strongly connected to the upper class. Further, it comments on Gigante's concept of “culture
of taste” which she affirms, “involve[s] elevating eating, the most basic of all human drives,
into bourgeois commensality or dining; in practice, this mean[s] civilizing appetite through
the developing etiquette of manners” (8). Examples of this are transparent in scenes where the characters behave inappropriately towards waiters at the restaurants.
Additionally, Tender is the Night is suffused with references to European cuisine. Due to the European setting I chose to borrow David Bell and Gill Valentine's phrase “we are where we eat”
8in order to study the connection between gastronomic references and the European surroundings. Further, I expand Rappoport's concept of “cultural conditioning” (164), through which he suggests that “culturally conditioned personal values and attitudes, emotional traumas, various defence mechanisms, and developmental experiences may all play a role in how individuals and groups negotiate the meanings of food” (69). Hence, this section
considers the French, Swiss and Italian surroundings as an example of “cultural conditioning”
in the novel. The main argument in this segment, is further built upon Hestetun's concept of contextuality which “seek[s] to establish links between individual texts and a historical- cultural context and systems of power” such as social, cultural and political context (Hestetun 28). The general idea is that the American characters are strongly influenced by culture in form of eating and drinking habits which in turn reflect the glamorous and non-glamorous aspects of the upper class lifestyle in symbolic terms.
Food Studies and Psychopathology.
The discussion in this section is primarily based on the belief that food has a significant impact on our behaviour. Food is a crucial factor during our psychological development where we already during the years of infancy recognise our senses. We get familiar with the gustatory perceptions and learn how to recognise sweetness, sourness, saltiness and bitterness.
Scholars such as Bernard Lyman and Leon Rappoport, are significant sources within the field
of Food Studies and psychology, as they explore the association between gastronomy and psychology in terms of how food reflect our personal traits and eating habits.
Lyman highlights general psychological studies and food in regard to “sensory experience, memories, thoughts, images, and feelings” (8-9). He studies the relationship between food and emotion with particular focus on “moods, feelings and attitudes” in hope of “possible
applications for modifying emotions and outlooks” (8-9). Primarily, the sections in this thesis called “Entree: A Fumbling Snobbery” and “Le Plat Principal: An Uncharacteristic Burst of Temper” investigate the results of a psychological experiment which show that “the largest preference for alcohol was not during anger, frustration, or depression when it is supposedly used to alleviate the feelings, but during love-affection, when individuals reported using wine with meals to prolong the mood” (Lyman 45). Here, food and alcohol preferences are
paralleled to the characters' shifts in mood and behaviour. The two sections are both studied in comparison to the results of the experiment: First, in “Entree: A Fumbling Snobbery” the close reading of passages regarding gastronomy and class, support the experiment's results, as the character indulge themselves in gastronomic luxuries as a portrayal of what Bell refers to as “the art of life.” In contrast, the close reading of passages focusing on alcoholism in “Le Plat Principal: An Uncharacteristic Burst of Temper” does however question the experiment's outcome, as it shows that Dick's alcohol consumption primarily arises in order to relieve or escape his feelings. His yearn for alcoholic beverages, is therefore mostly during frustration and depression. This is simultaneously examined in correlation to the psychological concept called DAD-effect: depression, addiction and denial (Riddle). The characters'
psychopathological condition is further connected to the concept of “emotional bankruptcy”
(Bruccoli 289) and Robert's idea regarding alcohol as a form of escapism. Additionally, this
section deals with a combination of psychopathology and cultural contexts, based on Miller's, Avey's and Peck's descriptions of the Prohibition era and the significance of gin, wine and champagne.
Further, Rappoport suggests that one of the major issues of the mere interest in food in
psychology is that “it was generally taken for granted as a fact of life, worthy of attention only when symptomatic of some other, more significant, problem” (Rappoport 28). This does also seem to be the issue in why food is not as well researched as other areas in Fitzgerald's works;
gastronomy is simply not as interesting since it is taken for granted and therefore not seen as an intriguing topic. In addition, this thesis expands on Rappoport's idea of investigating “how people think and feel about their food preferences and eating habits” (34). As mentioned above, the focus is to investigate how the characters' food preferences are portrayed in scenes regarding shared meals at dinners and parties, and to trace patterns of their eating habits, partially built upon Rappoport's argument “eating is as much or more a matter of the mind as it is of the body” (13).
The connection between mind, body and food is strongly associated to the concept of
psychopathology which is the psychological study of “social-emotional problems” (Rapport
28). A detailed definition of psychopathology in connection to gastronomy, illustrates how
food reflects our personality traits e.g. food defines us through how we eat, what we eat and
how much we eat (Rappoport 113). Similarly, Rappoport explains that “the personal and
public presentation of self through food…are ubiquitous and often paradoxical, in the sense of
being both inner and outer directed. That is, we may eat in ways aimed at the satisfaction of
inner, personal needs, or in order to impress others” (74). In light of that, Rappoport's
definition of psychopathology emphasises the relationship between food and appearance and its connection to characters' self- and public image in Tender is the Night (Fitzgerald and West III 72-76). From this perspective, the focus is primarily on Rosemary and her relationship to alcohol. In addition, Rappoport states that “appetite varies up or down
depending on our position on the happy–sad scale” (104) which is of great significance during the examination of the relationship between food and mood. In particular, psychopathology is primarily considered during close readings of scenes including luncheons and parties and the analysis of characters' emotional state when consuming food and drinks. However, the significance of detailed descriptions of gastronomy and physiological sensations in Book I and III, transform into rather abstract, psychological and philosophical descriptions of food and appetite in Book II. In order to comprehend what such transformation does to the text in Tender is the Night, the section “Fromage: the Absence of Gourmandise” expands
Rappoport's approach on psychopathology and contrasts Camastra's spiritual satiety. As the Diver's love does transform into frustration, anger and hate towards the end of the novel, I created a concept called lack of nourishment, which translates as a metaphor to the state when their love disappears. The concept is further expanded in the same section. The discussion of psychopathology and lack of nourishment, is strongly associated to Salmose's notion of nostalgia, in which he claims that nostalgic tendencies are “mimicked, paralleled, and
enhanced by the novel’s structure and style, creating a profound effect on a reader responsive to the novel’s devices” (67). Salmose divides “the emotional content of the nostalgic
experience” into two phases. First, he introduces happiness, which is the “the idealized image or event that brings immediate happiness” (Salmose 68). The second phase is called
reflectiveness, in which we reflect upon the passing image or event in a rather wistful manner
(Salmose 68). Examples of this are particularly seen as the Diver's relationship transforms
from love into melancholic bitterness towards the end of the novel. Finally, the section dealing with the characters' psychopathological conditions, profoundly investigates
Fitzgerald's narrative style and explains how he conveys metaphorical meanings in terms of
figurative language and gastronomic motives.
SAFFRON SEASONED SOUP: SENSES AND STYLISTICS
“The diffused magic of the hot sweet South had withdrawn into them–” Tender is the Night (42)