M I S (s) F I T: DISTORTING BODY LINES OF THE FEMALE SILHOUETTE

M I S ^(s) F I T

DISTORTING BODY LINES OF THE FEMALE SILHOUETTE

M A T I L D A H A L L

2020.3.07

B A F A S H I O N D E S I G N

M I S ^(s) F I T

4.2 D E V E L O P E M E N T

4.2.1 F O R M E X P L O R A T I O N 4.2.2 D E T A I L E X P L O R A T I O N

4.2.3 C O L O R / P R I N T E X P L O R A T I O N 4.2.4 A N A L O G E X P L O R A T I O N

4.2.5 F I R S T L I N E U P

4.2.6 F O R M E X P L O R A T I O N N R . 2

4.2.7 L I N E U P F O R M 4.2.8 P R I N T A N D C O L O R

4.2.9 S H I L O U E T T E S W I T H P R I N T I N G L I N E 4.2.10 D I M E N S I O N P R I N T I N G L I N E

4.2.11 T R A N S F E R P R I N T T O W O V E N S T R U C T U R E 4.2.12 C O T T O N F U S I N G L I N E UP

4.2.13 G O I N G B A C K 4.2.14 L I N E U P

5. R E S U L T & D I S C U S S I O N

5.1 L I N E U P

5.2 L O O K 1 5.3 L O O K 2

5.4 L O O K 3

5.5 T E C H P A C K S

I N D E X

1. I N T R O D U C T I O N T O T H E F I E L D

1.1 B A C K G R O U N D

1.2 C L A S S I C A L I M A G E O F D R E S S P R A C T I C E A N D T H E F E M A L E S I L H O U E T T E

1.3 P A T T E R N C O N S T R U C T I O N

2. S T A T E O F T H E A R T

2.1 C O M M E D E S G A R C O N S 2.2 M I N N A P A L M Q U I S T 2.3 C I N D Y S H E R M A N 2.4 C O P E R N I

3. M O T I V E A N D A I M

3.1 M O T I V E 3.2 A I M

4. M E T H O D A N D D E V E L O P E M E N T

4.1 M E T H O D

4.1.1 D I G I T A L S K E T C H I N G - C L O 3 D

4.1.2 R E C O N S T R U C T I N G A N D D R A P I N G - B U I L D C O N C E P T 4.1.3 D E C O N S T R U C T I N G - T E S T C O N C E P T - S E T F O R M

A B S T R A C T

dŚŝƐƌĞƉŽƌƚŝŶǀĞƐƟŐĂƚĞƐƚŚĞĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂůĨĞŵĂůĞ

ƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĐŽŵŵŽŶĂƐƐƵŵƉƟŽŶƐŽĨ

ƚŚĞďŽĚLJ͘DŽƌĞŽǀĞƌ͕ĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚƉĞƌƐƉĞĐƟǀĞƐŽĨƚŚĞ

ďŽĚLJĂŶĚƚŚĞĚƌĞƐƐĞĚďŽĚLJŝƐĂŶĂůLJƐĞĚ

ĂŶĚĐŽŶƐŝĚĞƌĞ͘ŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂůƉĂƩĞƌŶĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶŝƐ

ďĂƐĞĚƵƉŽŶƚŚĞƐĞĂƐƐƵŵƉƟŽŶƐŽĨƚŚĞ

ĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJ͘dŽĞdžƉĂŶĚƚŚĞƉĞƌƐƉĞĐƟǀĞ͕ĂŶĞdžƉĞƌŝ- ŵĞŶƚĂůĂƉƉƌŽĂĐŚŝƐŝŵƉůĞŵĞŶƚĞĚƚŽ

ĚŝƐƉůĂLJŶĞǁĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶƐŽĨƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞĂŶĚ

ĚĞĮŶĞĂŶĚĞdžƉůŽƌĞƚŚĞƐĞĐŚĂƌĂĐƚĞƌŝƐ ƟĐƐƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĨŽƌŵ͘

dŚĞǁŽƌŬŝƐĐŽŶĚƵĐƚĞĚďLJƌĞƚŚŝŶŬŝŶŐƚŚĞĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂů

ĨĞŵĂůĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞŝŶƚĞƌŵƐŽĨǀŽůƵŵĞ

ĂŶĚĐŽŵƉŽƐŝƟŽŶĞdžƚƌĂĐƚĞĚĨƌŽŵƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůĐƵƚƐŝŶ

ǁŽŵĞŶƐǁĞĂƌ͘&ƵƌƚŚĞƌŵŽƌĞ͕ƚŽĐŚĂůůĞŶŐĞ

ĞdžƉĞĐƚĂƟŽŶƐŽŶĨĞŵĂůĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƵƐŝŶŐƐĞĂŵƐĂŶĚ

ĚĂƌƚƐƚŽĐƌĞĂƚĞĐŽŶĐĂǀĞĂŶĚĐŽŶǀĞdž

ǀŽůƵŵĞƐ͕ƚŽĐŽƌƌĞƐƉŽŶĚǁŝƚŚďŽĚŝůLJƐŚĂƉĞƐǁŚŝĐŚ

ƚŚĞŶĂƌĞƌĞĂƌƌĂŶŐĞĚŝŶĂŶŽŶƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂů

ĐŽŵƉŽƐŝƟŽŶ͘

K E Y W O R D S

P A T T E R N C O N S T R U C T I O N , D I G I T A L P R I N T I N G , C L O 3 D , D E C O N S T R U C T I O N , F E M A L E B O D Y

B A C K G R O U N D

dŚŝƐĂƌĞĂŽĨŝŶǀĞƐƟŐĂƟŽŶƚĂƌŐĞƚƚŽĞdžƉůŽƌĞƚŚĞƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůůŝŶĞƐ

ŝŶĨĞŵĂůĞĚƌĞƐƐďLJƐƚƵĚLJŝŶŐƚŚĞŝĚĞĂůŝƐĂƟŽŶŽĨƚŚĞĚƌĞƐƐĞĚ

ĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJ͘dŚĞŵĂŝŶƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞƚŽƌĞĂůŝƐĞƚŚŝƐǁŝůůďĞƌĞƚŚŝŶ- ŬŝŶŐĨŽƌŵďĂƐĞĚŽŶƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚŝƐĞĚƉĂƩĞƌŶĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ͘

C L A S S I C A L I M A G E O F D R E S S P R A C T I C E A N D T H E F E M A L E S I L H O U E T T E

dŚĞďŽĚLJďŽƚŚŚŽůĚƚŚĞĂďŝůŝƚLJƚŽƌĞŇĞĐƚƉƌĞǀĂŝůŝŶŐƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚŽĨ

ĂƟŵĞĂŶĚƚŽŽƉƉŽƐĞŽŶƚŚĞŵ͘/ƚĐĂŶƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚǁŚĂƚŝƐĂŶĚ

ĨƵƌƚŚĞƌŵŽƌĞďĞƵƐĞĚĂƐƚŚĞƚŽŽůƚŽƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĂŶĚĚŝƐƉůĂLJ

ƉƌŽŐƌĞƐƐŝǀĞŶĞǁŝĚĞĂůƌĞŐĂƌĚŝŶŐŝƚ;tĂƌƌĂŶĚ:ŽŶĞƐ͕ϮϬϭϮͿ͘dŚĞ

ĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƚŽĨƚŚĞŶŽƌŵĂƟǀĞďŽĚLJŝƐĞƐƚĂďůŝƐŚĞĚĂŶĚĂĚũƵƐƚĞĚ

ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĂŵĞƌŐĞŽĨƉƐLJĐŚŽůŽŐŝĐĂůĂŶĚƉŚLJƐŝŽůŽŐŝĐĂůŵŽƌĂů

ĐŽŶĐĞƉƚƐ͘/ŶŚŝƐŬ͕&ƌĂŐŵĞŶƚƐĨŽƌĂŚŝƐƚŽƌLJŽĨƚŚĞŚƵŵĂŶ

ďŽĚLJ;ϭϵϴϵͿ͕&ĞŚĞƌĂƌŐƵĞƐƚŚĂƚ͞ƚŚĞďŽĚLJ΀ĂĐƚ΁ĂƐƚŚĞĂĐƵĂůŝ- njĞƌŽĨƉŽǁĞƌƌĞůĂƟŽŶƐʹŝƚƌĞƐŝƐƚƐƉŽǁĞƌŽĨŶĞǁĚĞƐŝƌĞƐĂŶĚ

ĐŽŶƐƚƌĂŝŶƚƐƚŚĂƚĞĂĐŚƌĞŐŝŵĞĚĞǀĞůŽƉƐ͘͟

dŚƌŽƵŐŚŚŝƐƚŽƌLJ͕ĨĂƐŚŝŽŶŚĂƐƐĞƌǀĞĚĂƐĂƌĞŇĞĐƟŽŶŽĨƚŚĞ

ƉƌĞƐĞŶƚŝĚĞĂů͘'ĂƌŵĞŶƚƐŚĂǀĞďĞĞŶƵƐĞĚƚŽŵŽĚŝĨLJĂŶĚĂĚũƵƐƚ

ƚŚĞǁĞĂƌĞƌ͛ƐďŽĚLJƚŽĮƚƚŚĞĞƐƚĂďůŝƐŚĞĚƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚƐŽĨƚŚĞƟŵĞ

ĂŶĚƌĂƌĞůLJƐĞĞŵƚŽĂůůŽǁƚŚĞŶĂƚƵƌĂůƐŚĂƉĞƐŽĨƚŚĞďŽĚLJƚŽ

ĚĞƚĞƌŵŝŶĞƚŚĞƐŚĂƉĞ;DĂƌƟŶ͕<ŽĚĂ͕ϭϵϵϰͿ͘/ŶƚŚĞƉĂƐƚϱϬϬ

LJĞĂƌƐĚƌĞƐƐŚĂǀĞďĞĞŶƵƐĞĚƚŽĂĐĐĞŶƚƵĂƚĞƚŚĞƉƵůĐŚƌŝƚƵĚĞŽĨ

ƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJ͘KŶĞǁĂLJƚŚŝƐŝƐƌĞĂůŝƐĞĚŝƐƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĚƌĞƐƐĂŶĚ

ŝŶƚŚĞƉĂƐƚĐĞŶƚƵƌŝĞƐƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞŝŵĂŐĞŚĂǀĞďĞĞŶƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĞĚ

ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĐŽŵŵŽŶĨĂĐƚŽƌƐŽĨĨŽĐƵƐ͘dŚĞǁĂŝƐƚ͕ďƵƐƚĂŶĚŚŝƉůŝŶĞƐ

ĂƌĞĞdžĂŐŐĞƌĂƚĞĚƚŽƐŝŵƵůĂƚĞĂƚƌĂŶƐĮŐƵƌĞĚƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞŽĨƚŚĞ

ĨĞŵĂůĞĨŽƌŵ͕ǁŚŝĐŚŽŌĞŶĐƌĞĂƚĞƐĂŶŚŽƵƌŐůĂƐƐĮŐƵƌĞ;ĮŐƵƌĞϭͿ

;^ŽƌŐĞƌĂŶĚhĚĂůĞ͕ϮϬϭϳͿ͘

P A T T E R N C O N S T R U C T I O N

ƌĞĂƟŶŐĂŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƌĞƋƵŝƌĞƐĂƐƚƌƵĐƚƵƌĞŽĨĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚĞůĞŵĞŶƚƐ͕

ƐƵĐŚĂƐĐŽŵƉŽƐŝƟŽŶ͕ǀŽůƵŵĞĂŶĚƐƵƉƉŽƌƚŝŶƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽƚŚĞ

ďŽĚLJ;^ŽƌŐĞƌĂŶĚhĚĂůĞ͕ϮϬϭϳͿ͘dƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůůLJŽƌĐŽŵŵĞƌĐŝĂůůLJ͕

ƚŚŝƐŝƐĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƚĞĚďLJƐĞǁŝŶŐƉŝĞĐĞƐŽĨĨĂďƌŝĐƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌ͕ŵĞĂƐƵ- ƌĞĚƚŽĞŶǀĞůŽƉĞƚŚĞďŽĚLJŝŶĂǀĞƌƟĐĂůĂŶĚŚŽƌŝnjŽŶƚĂůƐLJƐƚĞŵƐ

ŽĨůŝŶĞƐ͕ƐƵƉƉŽƌƚĞĚďLJŚĂŶŐŝŶŐƉŽŝŶƚƐŽŶƚŚĞďŽĚLJƐƵĐŚĂƐ

ƐŚŽƵůĚĞƌ͕ǁĂŝƐƚĂŶĚŚŝƉ͘

/ŶŚŝƐŬ͕<ŝŶĞƟĐŐĂƌŵĞŶƚĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ͗ƌĞŵĂƌŬƐŽŶƚŚĞ

ĨŽƵŶĚĂƟŽŶƐŽĨƉĂƩĞƌŶĐƵƫŶŐ͕>ŝŶĚƋǀŝƐƚ;ϮϬϭϱ͕Ɖ͘ϳͿĐůĂŝŵƚŚĂƚ

ďLJĐŚĂůůĞŶŐŝŶŐƚŚĞƐĞĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂůŵĞƚŚŽĚƐŽĨŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ

ĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ͕ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĞdžƉĞƌŝŵĞŶƚĂůĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞƐ͕

ŶĞǁƉĞƌƐƉĞĐƟǀĞŽĨŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶŝƐŵĂĚĞ͕ǁŚŝĐŚ

ŐĞŶĞƌĂƚĞƐ͞ĚŝǀĞƌƐĞĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶƐĂŶĚĞŶŚĂŶĐĞĚĨƵŶĐƟŽŶĂů

ƉŽƐƐŝďŝůŝƟĞƐŝŶĚƌĞƐƐ͘͟

/ŶƚŚĞϭϵϲϬ͛ƐƌŝƐƚŽďĂůĂůĞŶĐŝĂŐĂŝŶƚƌŽĚƵĐĞĂƌĂĚŝĐĂůůLJ

ĂůƚĞƌĞĚƚŚĞĨĂƐŚŝŽŶĂďůĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞĨŽƌǁŽŵĞŶ,ĞĐƌĞĂƚĞĚ

ŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐƚŚĂƚĂĚŽƉƚĞĚǀĂƌŝĂďůĞůŝŶĞƐĂŶĚƚƌĂŶƐĨŽƌŵĞĚƚŚĞ

ǁĂLJƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƌĞůĂƚĞĚƚŽƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞĨŽƌŵŝŶĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƚƚŽ

ƚŚĞĐƵƌǀLJŚŽƵƌŐůĂƐƐƐŚĂƉĞ;ƵŶĐƵīŚĂƌůĞƐƚŽŶ͕ϮϬϬϰͿ͘dŚĞ

ƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƐǁĞƌĞŶŽůŽŶŐĞƌĂĚŝƌĞĐƚƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĂƟŽŶŽĨĂ

ĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚŝůLJĨŽƌŵ͕ďƵƚƌĂƚŚĞƌũƵƐƚǀŽůƵŵŝŶŽƵƐƐŚĂƉĞƐ

ƐƵƌƌŽƵŶĚŝŶŐƚŚĞďŽĚLJ͕ƚƌĂŶƐĨŽƌŵŝŶŐĂŶĞǁĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶŽĨ

ŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐĂŶĚĚƌĞƐƐŝŶŐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϮĂŶĚϯͿ͘

LJĐŽŵďŝŶŝŶŐƚŚĞƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůĂƐƉĞĐƚƐŽĨŚŽǁĂŐĂƌŵĞŶƚŝƐ

ĐŽŵƉŽƐĞĚǁŝƚŚĂŶĂƚLJƉŝĐĂůǁĂLJŽĨĂƉƉƌŽĂĐŚŝŶŐƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞ

ďŽĚLJ͕ƐƵĐŚĂƐƉůĂĐŝŶŐǀŽůƵŵĞƐĂŶĚůŝŶĞƐŝŶĂĂƐLJŵŵĞƚƌŝĐĂů

ĂŶĚƵŶĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂůƐĞŶƐĞ͕ƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬƚĂƌŐĞƚƚŽŝŶƐƉŝƌĞŶĞǁ

ǁĂLJƐŽĨƉƌĞƐĞŶƚƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞĨŽƌŵƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĚƌĞƐƐ͘

Figure 2

Balenciagas Sack-dress made in 1957 “[were] the seductive element was intended to be deciphered by women for status claims rather than men for erotic purposes” (Mackinney-Valentin, 2017,

pp.59–79).

Figure 3

Woman wearing a sack dress

walking the streets of Paris, 1957 © Archivo Histórico de NO-DO, Filmoteca Española

Figure 1

Woman wearing a waspie, a waist only corsett that would have been worn under Diors New look that reintroduced corsets and exaggerated hourglass silhouette in the 50’s.

S T A T E O F T H E A R T

C O M M E D E S G A R C O N S

/ŶŽŵŵĞĚĞƐ'ĂƌĕŽŶƐƐƉƌŝŶŐϭϵϵϳƌĞĂĚLJƚŽǁĞĂƌĐŽůůĞĐƟŽŶ͕

ŽĚLJDĞĞƚƐƌĞƐƐ͕ƌĞƐƐDĞĞƚƐŽĚLJ;ĮŐƵƌĞϰͿ͕<ĂǁĂŬƵďŽ

ĐŚĂůůĞŶŐĞƚŚĞŚŝƐƚŽƌŝĐĂůůLJƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĂƟŽŶŽĨƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞĨŽƌŵ͘

^ŚĞƌĞĨĞƌĞŶĐĞƐƚLJƉŝĐĂůĨĞŵĂůĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐ͕ƐƵĐŚĂƐƚŚĞĚƌĞƐƐĂŶĚ

ƚŚĞƐŬŝƌƚŝŶƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽƵŶƚLJƉŝĐĂůĂĐĐĞŶƚƵĂƟŽŶŽĨƚŚĞďŽĚLJ͘dŚŝƐ

ŚĂǀĞƐŝŶĐĞďĞĞŶĂƐŝŐŶĂƚƵƌĞĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶŽĨŽŵŵĞĚĞƐ'ĂƌĕŽŶƐ

ĐƌĞĂƟŽŶƐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϱĂŶĚϲͿ͘^ŚĞƵƐĞĂŶĂƌƌŽǁĮƚŵĞƌŐĞĚǁŝƚŚ

ĐŽŶĐĂǀĞŽƌĐŽŶǀĞdžďŽĚŝůLJƐŚĂƉĞƐĚŝƐƉůĂLJŝŶŐĂŶĂďŶŽƌŵĂů

ƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƐ͘dŚŝƐĐƌĞĂƚĞƐĂŶƵŶĐĞƌƚĂŝŶƚLJŽĨǁŚĂƚŝƐďŽĚLJĂŶĚ

ǁŚĂƚŝƐĚƌĞƐƐ͘&ƵƌƚŚĞƌŵŽƌĞ͕ƐŚĞƋƵĞƐƟŽŶƐďĞĂƵƚLJŝĚĞĂů

ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚŵŝƐƉůĂĐŝŶŐƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůĚĞƐŝƌĞĚƐŚĂƉĞƐŽĨƚŚĞďŽĚLJ͘

^ŝŵŝůĂƌƚŽ<ĂǁĂŬƵďŽ͛ƐǁŽƌŬ͕ƐƵŐŐĞƐƟŽŶƐŽĨĨŽƌŵǁŝůůďĞ

ƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĞĚŝŶĂƌĞĂƌƌĂŶŐĞĚ͕ŶŽŶƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůĐŽŵƉŽƐŝƟŽŶ͘

M I N N A P A L M Q U I S T

^ǁĞĚŝƐŚĚĞƐŝŐŶĞƌDŝŶŶĂWĂůŵƋǀŝƐƚĚŝƐƉůĂLJĂƌĂŶŐĞŽĨĚĞĨŽƌ- ŵĞĚďŽĚLJƐŚĂƉĞƐƚŚĂƚŝŶǀĞƐƟŐĂƚĞƐƚŚĞƌĞůĂƟŽŶďĞƚǁĞĞŶƚŚĞ

ŵŽĚĞƌŶĞdžƉĞĐƚĂƟŽŶƐŽĨƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJ͘LJĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŶŐƚŚĞ

ƐŚĂƉĞƐŽĨƚŚĞƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůĨĞŵĂůĞĐƵƚ͕ƐŚĞŝƐƋƵĞƐƟŽŶŝŶŐƚŚĞ

ƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůǁĂLJŽĨĐƌĞĂƟŶŐĂƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚŝnjĞĚĨŽƌŵƐ͘dŚĞŵĂŶŶĞ- ƋƵŝŶƐĂŵƉůŝĮĞƐƚŚĞĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƚďĞƚǁĞĞŶƚŚĞĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂůĂŶĚƚŚĞ

ƵŶĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂůĨŽƌŵƐĂŶĚĚĞŵŽŶƐƚƌĂƚĞĚŝƐƉĂƌŝƚLJďĞƚǁĞĞŶƚǁŽ

ďŽĚŝůLJƐŚĂƉĞƐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϳͿ͘

LJĐŽŵďŝŶŝŶŐďŽƚŚ<ĂǁĂŬƵďŽ͛ƐŵĞƚŚŽĚŽĨĞdžĂŐŐĞƌĂƚĞĚĨŽƌŵƐ

ŽĨĨĞŵĂůĞĐůŝĐŚĞƐĂŶĚWĂůŵƋǀŝƐƚ͛ƐƵƐĞŽĨƚŚĞŵĂŶŶĞƋƵŝŶĂƐĂ

ĐŽŵŵĞŶƚŽŶŵŝƐƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĂƟŽŶŽĨƌĞĂůďŽĚLJƐ͕ƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬǁŝůů

ƵƐĞŚŝƐƚŽƌŝĐĂůůLJƌĞĨĞƌĞŶĐĞĚƐLJŵďŽůƐŽĨƌĞĐŽŐŶŝƟŽŶĐŽŶĐĞƌŶŝŶŐ

ĨĞŵĂůĞĚƌĞƐƐ͕ƐƵĐŚĂƐƚŚĞůŝŶĞƐŽĨĂƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůƚĂŝůŽƌĞĚ

ŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͘&ƵƌƚŚĞƌŵŽƌĞ͕ƵƐŝŶŐƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚŝnjĞĚŵĞĂƐƵƌĞŵĞŶƚƐĂƐĂ

ĨŽƵŶĚĂƟŽŶƐŝŵŝůĂƌƚŽWĂůŵƋǀŝƐƚ͘

EĞǀĞƌƚŚĞůĞƐƐ͕ƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬǁŝůůŶŽƚƚĂƌŐĞƚƚŽĐƌĞĂƚĞŶĞǁďŽĚLJ͛ƐŽƌ

ĂďŽĚŝůLJƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĂƟŽŶ͕ďƵƚǁŝůůĨŽĐƵƐŽŶƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚĂŶĚƚŚĞ

ƐƉĂĐĞďĞƚǁĞĞŶďŽĚLJĂŶĚĚƌĞƐƐƚŽƐĞĞŬŶĞǁĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶƐŝŶ

ĚƌĞƐƐĂŶĚƚŚĞƌĞůĂƟŽŶďĞƚǁĞĞŶďŽĚLJĂŶĚŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͘

/ŶĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƚƚŽWĂůŵƋǀŝƐƚ͛ƐǁŽƌŬƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬŝƐŶŽƚĂŝŵŝŶŐƚŽ

ĐƌŝƟƋƵĞŶŽƌĞŚŝŐŚůŝŐŚƚĂŶLJƉƌŽďůĂŵĂƟĐƐƌĞŐĂƌĚŝŶŐĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJ

ƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĂƟŽŶ͘/ƚŝƐƌĂƚŚĞƌĂŶŝŶǀĞƐƟŐĂƟŽŶŝŶŚŽǁƚŽĮŶĚŶĞǁ

ƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƐďĂƐĞĚŽŶƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶƐŽĨŚŽǁƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJĂŶĚĂ

ĚƌĞƐƐĞĚĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJŝƐƉĞƌĐĞŝǀĞĚĂŶĚƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĞĚƚŽĚĂLJ͘

&ŝŐƵƌĞϰ

ŽŵŵĞĚĞƐ'ĂƌĕŽŶƐ

^ƉƌŝŶŐϭϵϵϳƌĞĂĚLJƚŽǁĞĂƌ

&ŝŐƵƌĞϱ

ŽŵŵĞĚĞƐ'ĂƌĕŽŶƐ

&ĂůůϮϬϭϳƌĞĂĚLJƚŽǁĞĂƌ

&ŝŐƵƌĞϲ

ŽŵŵĞĚĞƐ'ĂƌĕŽŶƐ

&ĂůůϮϬϮϬƌĞĂĚLJƚŽǁĞĂƌ

&ŝŐƵƌĞϳ

^ƚƵĚŝŽDŝŶŶĂWĂůŵƋǀŝƐƚ No Body pt. 1

2017

C I N D Y S H E R M A N

ŽŵƉĂƌĂďůĞƚŽ^ŚĞƌŵĂŶ͛ƐǁŽƌŬ͕ůŝŶĞƐĂƌĞŚŝŐŚůŝŐŚƚĞĚƚŽĂƐƐŝƐƚ

ƚŚĞǀŝĞǁĞƌƚŽĐůĂƌŝĨLJƚŚĞƌĞůĂƟŽŶďĞƚǁĞĞŶďŽĚLJĂŶĚĚƌĞƐƐĚƵĞ

ƚŽŝƚƐƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůƌĞĐŽŐŶŝƟŽŶŽĨŚŽǁĂŐĂƌŵĞŶƚŝƐŵĂĚĞĂŶĚ

ĚŝǀŝĚĞĚŝŶƚŽďůŽĐŬƐŽŶƚŚĞďŽĚLJ;ĮŐƵƌĞϴͿ͘/ŶƚĞƌŵƐŽĨŵĂƚĞƌŝĂů

ĂŶĚĐŽůŽƌ͕ƚŚŝƐƉƌŽũĞĐƚǁŝůůĂŝŵƚŽƉƌĞƐĞŶƚƚŚĞƌĞůĂƟŽŶďĞƚǁĞĞŶ

ďŽĚLJĂŶĚƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͘dŚŝƐŝƐŵĂĚĞďLJŝŶƚƌŽĚƵĐŝŶŐƚŚĞ

ĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƚďĞƚǁĞĞŶƚŚĞŵƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĂƚƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶƚŵĂƚĞƌŝĂůƚŽůĞƚ

ƚŚĞďŽĚLJďĞĂƐƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĂƐƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͘&ƵƌƚŚĞƌŵŽƌĞ͕ƚŚĞ

ŚŝŐŚůŝŐŚƚĞĚůŝŶĞƐĂƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚƚŽƐŚŽǁĐĂƐĞƚŚĞĚŝƐĐŽŶŶĞĐƚ

ďĞƚǁĞĞŶďŽĚLJĂŶĚĚƌĞƐƐ͘

C O P E R N I

/ŶƚŚĞŝƌĞĨĂůůϮϬϮϬƌĞĂĚLJƚŽǁĞĂƌĐŽůůĞĐƟŽŶ͕ŽƉĞƌŶŝŝƐƐŚŽǁŝŶŐ

ĂƌĐŚĞƚLJƉĂůŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐǁŚŝĐŚĂƌĞĚŝƐƚŽƌƚĞĚƚŚƌŽƵŐŚƉĂƩĞƌŶ

ĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ͘&ĂƐƚĞŶŝŶŐƐƐƵĐŚĂƐďƵƩŽŶŝŶŐĂŶĚnjŝƉƉĞƌƐĂƌĞ

ĐƌŽŽŬĞĚǁŚŝĐŚĂīĞĐƚƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐƚŽĐŚĂŶŐĞƐŚĂƉĞŝŶĂƐƵďƚůĞ

ǁĂLJ;ĮŐƵƌĞϵ͕ϭϬĂŶĚϭϭͿ͘DĂŶLJŽĨƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐĂƌĞƐŬĞǁĞĚ

ĨƌŽŵĐĞŶƚĞƌĨƌŽŶƚůŝŶĞ͘^ŝŵŝůĂƌƚŽŽƉĞƌŶŝƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬǁŝůůƐŬĞǁ

ůŝŶĞƐŽĨŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐƚŽĚŝƐƉůĂLJĂůƚĞƌŶĂƟǀĞƐŚĂƉĞƐŽĨŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐ͘

,ŽǁĞǀĞƌ͕ƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬǁŝůůĨŽĐƵƐƚŽĞdžƉƌĞƐƐĂŵŽƌĞĞdžƚƌĞŵĞ

ĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶĂŶĚĨŽĐƵƐŽŶƚŚĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞĂŶĚŶŽƚŽŶĂƌĐŚĞƚLJƉĂů

ŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐ͘

dŚĞŵĂŝŶƚĂƌŐĞƚǁŝůůďĞƚŽĚŝƐƉůĂLJŶĞǁĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶƐŽĨƚŚĞ

ĨĞŵŝŶŝŶĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞĂŶĚĚĞĮŶĞĂŶĚĞdžƉůŽƌĞĐŚĂƌĂĐƚĞƌŝƐƟĐƐŽĨ

ƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĨŽƌŵ͘

&ŝŐƵƌĞϴ

ŝŶĚLJ^ŚĞƌŵĂŶ ƌĞƚƌŽƐƉĞĐƟǀĞĂƚƚŚĞ

EĂƟŽŶĂůWŽƌƚƌĂŝƚ'ĂůůĞƌLJ

Sept. 2019

&ŝŐƵƌĞϵ

Coperni &ŝŐƵƌĞϭϬ

Coperni &ŝŐƵƌĞϭϭ

Coperni

I N D E X

1. I N T R O D U C T I O N T O T H E F I E L D

1.1 B A C K G R O U N D

1.2 C L A S S I C A L I M A G E O F D R E S S P R A C T I C E A N D T H E F E M A L E S I L H O U E T T E

1.3 P A T T E R N C O N S T R U C T I O N

2. S T A T E O F T H E A R T

2.1 C O M M E D E S G A R C O N S 2.2 M I N N A P A L M Q U I S T 2.3 C I N D Y S H E R M A N 2.4 C O P E R N I

3. M O T I V E A N D A I M

3.1 M O T I V E 3.2 A I M

4. M E T H O D A N D D E V E L O P E M E N T

4.1 M E T H O D

4.1.1 D I G I T A L S K E T C H I N G - C L O 3 D

4.1.2 R E C O N S T R U C T I N G A N D D R A P I N G - B U I L D C O N C E P T 4.1.3 D E C O N S T R U C T I N G - T E S T C O N C E P T - S E T F O R M

M O T I V E

dŚĞƉƵƌƉŽƐĞŽĨƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬŝƐƚŽŝŶƚƌŽĚƵĐĞŶĞǁƉĞƌƐƉĞĐƟǀĞƐŽĨ

ƚŚĞĚƌĞƐƐĞĚĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJ͘dŚĞƌĞŝƐĂĚŝǀŝĚĞďĞƚǁĞĞŶƚŚĞƵŶĚĞƌ- ƐƚĂƚĞĚĐĂƐƵĂůĂŶĚĨŽƌŵĂůǁĞĂƌ͘tŚĞƌĞĂƐĨŽƌŵĂůǁĞĂƌƐĞĞŵƚŽ

ĨŽĐƵƐŽŶĂƩƌĂĐƟǀĞŶĞƐƐŽƌĂĐĐĞŶƚƵĂƟŶŐĂŶĚƌĞƐƚƌŝĐƚƚŚĞďŽĚLJ

ĂŶĚƚŚĞĐĂƐƵĂůŵŽƐƚůLJŽŶĨƵŶĐƟŽŶ͘

ƌĞƐƐŝŶŐƚŚĞďŽĚLJŝƐďŽƚŚĂƐŽĐŝĂůĂŶĚĂƉĞƌƐŽŶĂůĞdžƉĞƌŝĞŶĐĞ

ǁŚŝĐŚŚĂǀĞŽďƚĂŝŶĞĚƚŚĞĨĞŵŝŶŝŶĞďŽĚLJĂƐĂƐĞdžƵĂůďŽĚLJĂŶĚ

ŚĂǀĞŶŽƚƐƵĐĐĞĞĚƚŽĂĐŚŝĞǀĞƐĞdžƵĂůĞƋƵĂůŝƚLJƚŚĂƚƌĞƐƵůƚƐŝŶƚŚĞ

ƐĞŶƐĞƚŚĂƚǁŽŵĞŶĂƌĞƐƟůů͞ůŽĐĂƚĞĚŝŶƚŚĞďŽĚLJǁŚĞƌĞĂƐŵĞŶ

ĂƌĞƐĞĞŶĂƐƚƌĂŶƐĐĞŶĚŝŶŐŝƚ͕͟;ŶƚǁŝƐƚůĞ͕ϮϬϬϭƉŐ͘ϯϯʹϱϴͿ͘

tŽŵĞŶƐǁĞĂƌŚĂǀĞŽŌĞŶďĞĞŶĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƚĞĚƚŽĞŶǀĞůŽƉĞĂŶĚ

ŚŝĚĞƚŚĞĂĐƚƵĂůƐŚĂƉĞƐŽĨƚŚĞďŽĚLJƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĂŶĂƌƟĮĐŝĂůƐŝůŚŽƵ- ĞƩĞƚŽĐŽŶĨŽƌŵǁŝƚŚĐŽŶƚĞŵƉŽƌĂƌLJŶŽƌŵƐ͘dŚŝƐǁŽƌŬǁŝůů

ĐŚĂůůĞŶŐĞƚŚŝƐĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶďLJƵƐŝŶŐĐƵƚƐĂŶĚĚĂƌƚƐƚŽĐƌĞĂƚĞĂ

ŵŝƐĮƩĞĚƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞĂƐ͞΀ƚ΁ŚĞĚĂƌƚŝƐĂŶĞƐƐĞŶƟĂůƉĂƌƚŽĨƚŚĞ

ĐƌĞĂƟŽŶŽĨĚĞƐŝŐŶƐĂŶĚƚŚĞŝŶƚĞƌŶĂůĮƫŶŐĚĞǀŝĐĞ͟

;:ŽƐĞƉŚͲƌŵƐƚƌŽŶŐ͕ϮϬϭϯƉŐ͘ϵϴͿ͘^ƵƌĞůLJĨĂƐŚŝŽŶƚƌĞŶĚƐŚĂǀĞ

ƉƌŽŐƌĞƐƐĞĚŝŶŽƉƉŽƐŝƟŽŶƚŽŽďƐŽůĞƚĞŝĚĞĂƐŽĨŚŝŐŚůŝŐŚƟŶŐ

ĐĞƌƚĂŝŶƉĂƌƚƐŽĨƚŚĞďŽĚLJƚŽĮƚĐůĂƐƐŝĐĂůďĞĂƵƚLJƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚƐ͘/Ŷ

ƚŚĞƉĂƐƚĚĞĐĂĚĞĚƌĞƐƐŚĂǀĞďĞĞŶƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĞĚďLJĨƵŶĐƟŽŶĂůŝƚLJ͕

ĐŽŵĨŽƌƚĂŶĚĂĐĂƐƵĂůĂƉƉƌŽĂĐŚƐƵĐŚĂƐŶŽƌŵĞĐŽƌĞĂŶĚĂƚŚůĞŝ- ƐƵƌĞ͘/ŶǁŚŝĐŚ͞΀ƚ΁ŚĞĐŽŵƉůĞdžƌĞůĂƟŽŶƐŚŝƉďĞƚǁĞĞŶĐůŽƚŚŝŶŐ͕

ďŽĚLJ͕ĂŶĚƉĞƌĐĞƉƟŽŶƐŽĨĂƩƌĂĐƟǀĞŶĞƐƐŚĂƐďĞĞŶǁŝĚĞůLJ

ĞdžƉůŽƌĞĚŝŶƌĞŐĂƌĚƚŽĞƐƉĞĐŝĂůůLJĨĞŵĂůĞĚƌĞƐƐƉƌĂĐƟĐĞƐĂŶĚ

ůŽŐŝĐƐŽĨĐŚĂŶŐĞ͟;DĂĐŬŝŶŶĞLJͲsĂůĞŶƟŶ͕;ϮϬϭϳͿ͕ƉƉ͘ϱϵʹϳϵͿ͘

,ŽǁĞǀĞƌ͕ƚŚĞƌĞŝƐƐƟůůĂŵĂŝŶƐƚƌĞĂŵĂƐƐƵŵƉƟŽŶŽĨǁŚĂƚŝƐ

ĨĞŵŝŶŝŶĞŝŶƚĞƌŵƐŽĨĐƵůƚƵƌĂůůLJĂŶĚŚŝƐƚŽƌŝĐĂůůLJĐŽĚĞƐǁŚŝĐŚ

ŝŵƉĂĐƚŽŶƚŚĞǁĂLJǁĞĚƌĞƐƐǁŽŵĞŶ͘/ŶƚŚĞŬƵůƚƵƌĂů

,ŝƐƚŽƌLJŽĨƌĞƐƐĂŶĚ&ĂƐŚŝŽŶŝŶƚŚĞDŽĚĞƌŶŐĞ;ϮϬϭϳͿ͕'ĞĐnjLJ

ĂŶĚ<ĂƌĂŵŝŶĂƐĚĞƐĐƌŝďĞƚŚĞƚǁĞŶƚLJͲĮƌƐƚĐĞŶƚƵƌLJƐƚLJůĞĂƐdŚĞ

WŽƐƚͲDŝůůĞŶŶŝĂůWůĂƐƟĐŽĚLJ͕ƌĞĨĞƌƌŝŶŐƚŽƚŚĞƵŶŽĸĐŝĂůĚƌĞƐƐ

ĐŽĚĞƐďĂƐĞĚŽŶŶŽƌŵĂƟǀĞƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚƐŽŶĞdžƉĞĐƚĂƟŽŶƐŽĨƚŚĞ

ĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJǁŚŝĐŚĂƌĞŶ͛ƚĞdžƉƌĞƐƐĞĚĂƐŵƵĐŚƚŚƌŽƵŐŚƚŚĞ

ĂĐƚƵĂůƐŚĂƉĞŽĨƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͘/ŶƐƚĞĂĚƚŚŝƐĞdžƉĞĐƚĂƟŽŶƐĂƌĞ

ĂƉƉůŝĞĚƚŽƚŚĞĂĐƚƵĂůďŽĚLJŽĨǁŽŵĞŶ͘dŚĞƐĞ͕ǁŚŝĐŚĂƌĞŵŽŶŝ- ƚŽƌĞĚďLJŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐƐƵĐŚĂƐƐŚĂƉĞǁĞĂƌĂŶĚͬŽƌďŽĚLJŵŽĚŝĮĐĂ- ƟŽŶƐƐƵĐŚĂƐƐƵƌŐŝĐĂůĐŽƌƌĞĐƟŽŶƐŽƌŝŶũĞĐƟŽŶƐƚŚĂƚĐŽŶĨŽƌŵƚŽ

ƚŚĞƉƌĞǀĂŝůŝŶŐŝĚĞĂů͘DŽƌĞŽǀĞƌ͕ŝŶŇƵĞŶĐĞƐŽĨƚŽĚĂLJĂƌĞĚĞƌŝǀŝŶŐ

ĨƌŽŵ͞ĂŶĞǁƐƚLJůŝnjĞĚƚLJƉĞŽĨďŽĚLJƚŚĂƚŝƐďĞƐƚĚĞƐĐƌŝďĞĚĂƐƚŚĞ

͞ƉŽƌŶ͟ďŽĚLJĂŶĚĞdžŝƐƚƐŝŶĞdžƉŽŶĞŶƟĂůŝƚĞƌĂƟŽŶƐƚŚĂŶŬƐƚŽƚŚĞ

/ŶƚĞƌŶĞƚ͘;'ĞĐnjLJ͕<ĂƌĂŵŝŶĂƐ͕;ϮϬϭϳͿ͕ƉƉ͘ϲϯʹϴϰͿ͘

dŚĞƌĞĨŽƌĞ͕ƚŚŝƐƌĞƉŽƌƚĂŝŵƚŽŵĂŬĞǁĂLJĨŽƌŶĞǁĂŶĚĚŝǀĞƌƐĞ

ƉĞƌƐƉĞĐƟǀĞŽĨďŽĚLJƐĂŶĚĨƵŶĐƟŽŶŽĨĂŐĂƌŵĞŶƚŝŶĂƐŽĐŝŽůŽŐŝ- ĐĂůǁĂLJ͘LJĚŝƐƉůĂLJŝŶŐƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJŝŶƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽĂŶŽŶͲƚƌĂ- ĚŝƟŽŶĂůĂƐƐĞŵďůĞĚŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͕ƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬŝƐƉƌŽƉŽƐŝŶŐĂĨƵƐĞŽĨ

ĂĐĐĞŶƚƵĂƟŶŐĂŶĚƌĞƐƚƌŝĐƚƚŚĞďŽĚLJǁŝƚŚƚŚĞĨƵŶĐƟŽŶŽĨĂ

ŐĂƌŵĞŶƚŝŶĂŶĂŶƟͲĂƩƌĂĐƟǀĞŶĞƐƐŵĂŶŶĞƌŝŶĂŶŽŶĐŽŵŵĞƌĐŝĂů

ǁĂLJ͘

THE AIM OF THIS WORK IS TO

DISTORT THE LINES OF THE BODY THROUGH MISFITTING

TRADITIONAL PATTERN PIECES

TO FIND NEW EXPRESSIONS FROM THE CONVENTIONAL

FEMALE SILHOUETTE

M E T H O D

dŚŝƐǁŽƌŬǁŝůůďĞĐĂƌƌŝĞĚŽƵƚƚŚƌŽƵŐŚƚŚƌĞĞƐƚĞƉƐďĂƐĞĚŽŶ

:ŽŚŶŚƌŝƐ:ŽŶĞƐ;ϭϵϵϮͿĚĞƐŝŐŶŵĞƚŚŽĚŽůŽŐLJ͕ĚŝǀĞƌŐĞŶĐĞ͕

ƚƌĂŶƐĨŽƌŵĂƟŽŶĂŶĚĐŽŶǀĞƌŐĞŶĐĞ͘^ŝŵƉůLJƉƵƚ͕ƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬǁŝůůďĞ

ĚŝǀŝĚĞĚŝŶƚŽŐĂƚŚĞƌŝŶŐŝŶĨŽƌŵĂƟŽŶƚŽĞdžƉĂŶĚƚŚĞƐĞĂƌĐŚƐƉĂĐĞ͕

ƐĞĐŽŶĚůLJ͕ƚĞƐƟŶŐƚŚĞĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚƉŽƐƐŝďŝůŝƟĞƐŝŶĐŽŵďŝŶŝŶŐ

ĮŶĚŝŶŐƐŝŶƚŚĞĮƌƐƚƐƚĞƉĂŶĚĮŶĂůůLJƐĞůĞĐƚĂŶĚĚŝƐƉůĂLJƚŚĞƌĞƐƵůƚ

ŝŶƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽƚŚĞĂŝŵ͘dŚĞƚĞĐŚŶŝĐĂůŵĞƚŚŽĚƐĨŽƌƚŚŝƐƉƌŽũĞĐƚ

ĂƌĞƌĞĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ͕ĚƌĂƉŝŶŐĂŶĚĚĞĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ͘dŚĞƐĞ

ŵĞƚŚŽĚƐĂƌĞĂƉƉůŝĞĚǁŝƚŚŝŶƚŚƌĞĞƐƚĞƉƐƚŽďƵŝůĚĐŽŶĐĞƉƚ͕ƚĞƐƚ

ĐŽŶĐĞƉƚĂŶĚƐĞƚĨŽƌŵŝŶƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽƚŚĞĂŝŵ͘

D I G I T A L S K E T C H I N G - C L O 3 D

ůůƚŚĞƚŚƌĞĞƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞƐǁŝůůďĞĐĂƌƌŝĞĚŽƵƚŝŶĚŝŐŝƚĂůϯ

ƐŽŌǁĂƌĞ>KϯƚŽĞŶĂďůĞĂŐƌĞĂƚďŽĚLJŽĨĞdžƉĞƌŝŵĞŶƚƐŽĨ

ĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ͕ŵĂƚĞƌŝĂůĂŶĚĐŽůŽƌ͘LJĚŝŐŝƚĂůŝƐĞƚŚŝƐƉƌŽĐĞƐƐ͕ƚŚĞ

ƵŶĚĞƌƐƚĂŶĚŝŶŐŽĨƚŚĞƌĞůĂƟŽŶďĞƚǁĞĞŶƚŚĞůŝŶĞƐĂŶĚƚŚĞďŽĚLJ

ĂƌĞĐĂƌƌŝĞĚŽƵƚĞĂƌůLJǁŝƚŚĐůĞĂƌǀŝƐƵĂůĐŽŶƚĞŶƚĂŶĚůĞĂǀĞƐƌŽŽŵ

ƚŽĨŽĐƵƐŽŶƌĞĮŶŝŶŐƚŚĞŝĚĞĂ;>Kͮϯ&ĂƐŚŝŽŶĞƐŝŐŶ^ŽŌǁĂ- ƌĞ͕ϮϬϮϬͿ͘&ƵƌƚŚĞƌŵŽƌĞ͕ƚŚŝƐƐŽŌǁĂƌĞĞŶĂďůĞƐƚŽǁŽƌŬƐŝŵƵůƚĂ- ŶĞŽƵƐůLJǁŝƚŚŇĂƚĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶĂŶĚĚƌĂƉŝŶŐ͘

R E C O N S T R U C T I N G A N D D R A P I N G - B U I L D C O N C E P T

dŚĞƐƚĂƌƟŶŐƉŽŝŶƚŽĨƚŚŝƐƉƌŽũĞĐƚŝƐƚŽĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƚĂŐĂƌŵĞŶƚďLJ

ĚƌĂƉŝŶŐ͕ƚŚĂƚƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚƚŚĞĚŝŵĞŶƐŝŽŶŽĨĂďŽĚLJďLJĐƵƫŶŐŝƚŝŶ

ƚŚĞƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůƚĂƉŝŶŐůŝŶĞƐĨƌŽŵĂŵĂŶŶĞƋƵŝŶ;ĮŐƵƌĞϭϮͿ͘LJ

ƌĞĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŶŐĂŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͕ĂŶƵŶĚĞƌƐƚĂŶĚŝŶŐŽĨƚŚĞĨŽƌŵĂŶĚ

ƚĞĐŚŶŝĐĂůĂƐƉĞĐƚƐŝƐŐĂŝŶĞĚĂƐǁĞůůĂƐƐŽĐŝŽŝĚĞŽůŽŐŝĐĂůĐŽŶƚĞdžƚ

ĂŶĚĐƌĂŌƐŵĂŶƐŚŝƉƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĐĂƌĞĨƵůƌĞƐĞĂƌĐŚ;dŚŽƌŶƋƵŝƐƚ͕

ϮϬϭϬͿ͘dŚŝƐŵĞƚŚŽĚŝƐĂƉƉůŝĞĚƚŽŐĂŝŶĚĞĞƉĞƌŬŶŽǁůĞĚŐĞĂďŽƵƚ

ƚŚĞƐƵďũĞĐƚŽŶǁŚŝĐŚƚŚĞĐŽŶĐĞƉƚŝƐďĂƐĞĚƵƉŽŶ͘

ƌĂƉŝŶŐĂůůŽǁƐƚŚĞĚƌĂƉĞƌͬĚĞƐŝŐŶĞƌƚŽƐƚƵĚLJƚŚĞĚƌĂƉĞĂƚĞĂĐŚ

ƐƚĞƉƚŽĐŽŶĮƌŵƚŚĂƚůŝŶĞĂŶĚƐŚĂƉĞĂƌĞďĂůĂŶĐĞŝŶƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽ

ƚŚĞďŽĚLJ;:ŽƐĞƉŚͲƌŵƐƚƌŽŶŐ͕ϮϬϭϯͿ͘LJĚƌĂƉŝŶŐĚŝƌĞĐƚůLJŽŶƚŚĞ

ďŽĚLJĂŶĚĐƌĞĂƟŶŐĂƐĞĐŽŶĚƐŬŝŶ͕ĂŶĂǁĂƌĞŶĞƐƐŽĨƚŚĞůŝŶĞƐ

ƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽƚŚĞďŽĚLJĂƐǁĞůůƐĂƐŐĂƌŵĞŶƚŝƐŐĂŝŶĞĚƚŽĨƵƌƚŚĞƌ

ĚĞǀĞůŽƉŶĞǁĨŽƌŵĂƉƉůLJŝŶŐƚŚĞƐĂŵĞƉƌŝŶĐŝƉůĞ͘

D E C O N S T R U C T I N G - T E S T C O N C E P T - S E T F O R M

dŚŝƐŵĞƚŚŽĚŝƐĂƉƉůŝĞĚƚŽƐŬĞƚĐŚƚŚƌĞĞĚŝŵĞŶƐŝŽŶĂůĨŽƌŵŝŶ

ƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽƚŚĞĐŽŶĐĞƉƚĂŶĚƚŽŐĂŝŶŶĞǁĂŶĚĚĞĞƉĞƌŬŶŽǁůĞĚ- ŐĞďLJĂĚĚŝŶŐŶĞǁƉĞƌƐƉĞĐƟǀĞƐ͘dŽĐŚĂůůĞŶŐĞƚŚĞƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂů

ƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞ͕ƐĞĂŵƐĂŶĚĚĂƌƚƐĂƌĞŵĞƌŐĞĚĂŶĚŵŝƐĮƩĞĚƚŽĐƌĞĂƚĞ

ǀŽůƵŵĞƐĂŶĚŐĞŶĞƌĂƚĞĂŶŽŶƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůĐŽŵƉŽƐŝƟŽŶĂŶĚĨŽƌŵ

ŽĨĂŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ;ĮŐƵƌĞϭϯͿ͘&ƵƌƚŚĞƌŵŽƌĞ͕ĂĚĚƚŽƚŚĞĐŚĂůůĞŶŐŝŶŐ

ŽĨƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞďLJƌĞƉůĂĐŝŶŐƚŚĞƉƵƌƉŽƐĞŽĨƚŚĞ

ŽƌŝŐŝŶĂůƐƚƌƵĐƚƵƌĞŽĨƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͘

LJƵŶĚŽŝŶŐƚŚĞƐƚƌƵĐƚƵƌĞŽĨĂƐƉĞĐŝĮĐŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ

ƐƵďƚƌĂĐƟŽŶŽƌĚŝƐƉůĂĐĞŵĞŶƚĂŶĚĂůƐŽƌĞƚŚŝŶŬŝŶŐƚŚĞŽƌŝŐŝŶĂů

ĨƵŶĐƟŽŶĂŶĚŵĞĂŶŝŶŐ͕ĚĞĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶŝƐƵƐĞĚƚŽƋƵĞƐƟŽŶƚŚĞ

ĂƵƚŚŽƌŝƚĂƌŝĂŶĨŽƵŶĚĂƟŽŶƐŽŶǁŚŝĐŚƚŚĞƐĞƐƚƌƵĐƚƵƌĞƐĂƌĞďĂƐĞĚ

ƵƉŽŶ͘&ƵƌƚŚĞƌŵŽƌĞŝƚŝƐĂŵĞƚŚŽĚƚŚĂƚĚŝƐĐůŽƐĞŶĞǁƉŽƐƐŝďŝůŝ- ƟĞƐŽĨƐŝŐŶŝĮĐĂƟŽŶĂŶĚƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĂƟŽŶ;>ŽƐĐŝĂůƉŽϮϬϭϭͿ͘

DISTORTED PATTERN BODY SUIT

DRAPED TO MISFIT BODY SHAPE ORIGINAL PATTERN BODY

SUIT

DRAPED TO FIT BODY SHAPE

Figure 12.

Draped body suit Figure 13.

Body suit re-draped

MAIN TECHNIQUE

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.1 F O R M E X P L O R A T I O N

ƚŚĞƉƌŝŵĂƌLJŝŶǀĞƐƟŐĂƟŽŶƐƐƚĂƌƚĞĚǁŝƚŚĞdžƉĞƌŝŵĞŶƟŶŐǁŝƚŚƚŚĞ

ŵĂŝŶƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞŽĨƐŝŵƉůLJƐĐĂůŝŶŐĐĞƌƚĂŝŶƉĂƩĞƌŶƉŝĞĐĞƐŽŶ

ĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚĂƌĞĂƐŽĨƚŚĞďŽĚLJ͘

&ŝƌƐƚůLJ͕ƚŚĞƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞŝƐůŽŽŬĞĚƵƉŽŶŝŶĂƚƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶƚƌĞŇĞĐƟǀĞ

ŐůĂƐƐƐĞƫŶŐŝŶ>Kϯ͕ǁŚŝĐŚĚŝƐƉůĂLJƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚĂƐĂďĞŝŶŐ

ƚŚĞďŽĚLJ;ĮŐƵƌĞϭϰͿ͘dŚŝƐŝƐŝŵƉůĞŵĞŶƚĞĚƚŽŐĞƚĂĐůĞĂƌĞƌǀŝĞǁ

ŽĨŚŽǁŽĨƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚŝƐŝŶƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽĂĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂůďŽĚLJ͘

^ĞĐŽŶĚůLJ͕ƚŚĞƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞŝƐǀŝĞǁĞĚŝŶďůĂĐŬĂŶĚǁŚŝƚĞĨĂďƌŝĐƐƚŽ

ŐĞƚĂĚĞĞƉĞƌƐĞŶƐĞŽŶŚŽǁƚŚĞƐĞĐŽůŽƌƐĂīĞĐƚƚŚĞƚŚĞƐŝůŚŽƵ- ĞƩĞ;ĮŐƵƌĞϭϱͿ͘dŚĞĐŽŶĐůƵƐŝŽŶŚĞƌĞŝƐƚŚĂƚƚŚĞďůĂĐŬŐŝǀĞƐĂ

ĨŽĐƵƐĞĚƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞ͕ďƵƚŶŽƚĂƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵůĐůĂƌŝĮĐĂƟŽŶŽĨƚŚĞ

ůŝŶĞƐƐLJƐƚĞŵ͕ǁŚŝĐŚŝƐĂŶŝŵƉŽƌƚĂŶƚŐƵŝĚĞůŝŶĞŽĨƚŚĞĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶ͘

dŚĞǁŚŝƚĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƐĂƌĞƐĞůĞĐƚĞĚĂƐŵŽƌĞƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵůĚƵĞƚŽ

ŝƚƐĂďŝůŝƚLJƚŽƌĞŇĞĐƚůŝŐŚƚĂŶĚƚŚĞƌĞĨŽƌĞŚŝŐŚůŝŐŚƟŶŐƚŚĞĐƵƚ͘

EĞdžƚƐƚĞƉŝŶƚŚĞĨŽƌŵŝŶǀĞƐƟŐĂƟŽŶƐǁĂƐƚŽĂĚĚƉĂĚĚŝŶŐƚŽ

ĞŶŚĂŶĐĞƚŚĞǀŽůƵŵŝŶŽƵƐƐŚĂƉĞƐĐƌĞĂƚĞĚĨƌŽŵƚŚĞƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞ͘

ĮƌƐƚĂĞdžƉĞƌŝŵĞŶƚǁŝƚŚŐƌĂĚƵĂůůLJĂĚĚŝŶŐƉƌĞƐƐƵƌĞͬǀŽůƵŵĞŝŶ

ƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚŝƐŵĂĚĞ͘dŚĞƉĂĚĚŝŶŐŝƐĂǀŝĞǁĞĚĂƐĂƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵů

ĞdžƉĞƌŝŵĞŶƚƚŽĞŶŚĂŶĐĞƚŚĞƐŚĂƉĞĂŶĚƚŚĞůŝŶĞ͘,ŽǁĞǀĞƌ͕ŝƚŝƐ

ĐŽŶƐŝĚĞƌĞĚƚŽŽǀĞƌƉŽǁĞƌƚŚĞƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞŝŶƌĞŐĂƌĚƐƚŽďĞŝŶŐ

ŵŽƌĞŽĨĂƐĐƵůƉƚƵƌĞƌĂƚŚĞƌƚŚĂŶĂŐĂƌŵĞŶƚǁŚĞŶŝŵƉůĞŵĞŶƚĞĚ

ŝŶĂĞdžƚƌĞŵĞǁĂLJ͘

Figure 14.

Exploring the body as garment

Figure 15.

Exploring how color affect the distortion of the lines.

Figure 16.

Exploring how padding affect the distortion of the lines.

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.2 D E T A I L E X P L O R A T I O N

&ƌŽŵƚŚĞŝĚĞĂŽĨƵƐŝŶŐƉĂĚĚŝŶŐƚŽĂŵƉůŝĨLJƚŚĞĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶŽĨƚŚĞ

ůŝŶĞƐ͕ĂŶĞdžƉĞƌŝŵĞŶƚǁŝƚŚƉĂĚĚĞĚůĂLJĞƌŝŶŐŝƐƐƵŐŐĞƐƚĞĚ;ĮŐƵƌĞ

ϭϳͿ͘/ƚŝƐĐŽŶƐŝĚĞƌĞĚƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵůŝŶƚĞƌŵƐŽĨĐŽŵŵƵŶŝĐĂƚĞƚŚĞ

ůŝŶĞƐLJƐƚĞŵ͘,ŽǁĞǀĞƌ͕ƚŚĞŽǀĞƌĂůůĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶŝƐĐŽŶƐŝĚĞƌĞĚƚŽŽ

ŚĞĂǀLJǁŚŝĐŚĚŝƐƚƌĂĐƚĨƌŽŵƚŚĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞĂƐĂǁŚŽůĞ͘

^ŝŶĐĞƚŚĞďůĂĐŬŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐĐůĞĂƌůLJĚĞĮŶĞƚŚĞŽǀĞƌĂůůƐŚĂƉĞ͕

ĨƵƌƚŚĞƌŝŶǀĞƐƟŐĂƟŽŶƐŽŶŚŽǁƚŽďƌŝŶŐĨŽƌǁĂƌĚƚŚĞĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶ

ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚƚŚĞůŝŶĞƐĂƌĞƚĞƐƚĞĚ;ĮŐƵƌĞϭϴͿ͘dŚĞďĂƐƟŶŐƚŚƌĞĂĚŝƐ

ĂůƌĞĂĚLJĂƉĂƌƚŽĨĂƐƐĞŵďůŝŶŐƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚĂŶĚďLJƐŝŵƉůLJ

ĐŚŽŽƐŝŶŐĂĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƟŶŐĐŽůŽƌƚŚĞďĂƐƟŶŐƚŚƌĞĂĚǁŽƵůĚďĞĂ

ƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵůŵĞƚŚŽĚƚŽĂŵƉůŝĨLJƚŚĞĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶ;ĮŐƵƌĞϭϵͿ͘

dŽĨƵƌƚŚĞƌŝŶǀĞƐƟŐĂƚĞƚŚĞƌĞůĂƟŽŶŽĨƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚĂŶĚƚŚĞ

ďŽĚLJ͕ĂŶĚƵƐĞƚŚĞĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƚŽĨƚŚĞƐĞƚŽĐůĂƌŝĨLJĂĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶ͕ƚŚĞ

ƚƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶĐLJŝƐƌĞŝŶƚƌŽĚƵĐĞĚŝŶƚŚĞĞdžƉĞƌŝŵĞŶƚĂƟŽŶĂƐĂ

ĚĞƚĂŝů͘dŚŝƐƟŵĞƚŚĞƚƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶĐLJŝƐƵƐĞĚŝŶďůŽĐŬƐƚŽƌĞǀĞĂů

ĐĞƌƚĂŝŶƉĂƌƚŽĨƚŚĞďŽĚLJŝŶĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƚƚŽƚŚĞŽĚĚĚŝƐƚŽƌƚĞĚ

ƐŚĂƉĞƐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϮϬͿ͘dŚĞƐĞĞdžƉĞƌŝŵĞŶƚƐĂƌĞĐŽŶƐŝĚĞƌĞĚůĞƐƐ

ƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵůŝŶƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽƚŚĞŚŝŐŚůŝŐŚƟŶŐŽĨƚŚĞůŝŶĞƐǁŝƚŚ

ƚŚƌĞĂĚ͘,ĞƌĞƚŚĞůŝŶĞƐĂƌĞŶŽƚĂƐĐůĞĂƌĂŶĚƚŚĞŽǀĞƌĂůůĞdžƉƌĞƐ- ƐŝŽŶĐŽŵĞƚŽďĞĂďŽƵƚƐŽŵĞƚŚŝŶŐĞůƐĞ͘

Figure 17.

Padded layers

Figure 18.

Black with contrasting basting thread

Figure 19.

Contrasting basting thread

Figure 20.

Transparent blocks

M O T I V E

dŚĞƉƵƌƉŽƐĞŽĨƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬŝƐƚŽŝŶƚƌŽĚƵĐĞŶĞǁƉĞƌƐƉĞĐƟǀĞƐŽĨ

ƚŚĞĚƌĞƐƐĞĚĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJ͘dŚĞƌĞŝƐĂĚŝǀŝĚĞďĞƚǁĞĞŶƚŚĞƵŶĚĞƌ- ƐƚĂƚĞĚĐĂƐƵĂůĂŶĚĨŽƌŵĂůǁĞĂƌ͘tŚĞƌĞĂƐĨŽƌŵĂůǁĞĂƌƐĞĞŵƚŽ

ĨŽĐƵƐŽŶĂƩƌĂĐƟǀĞŶĞƐƐŽƌĂĐĐĞŶƚƵĂƟŶŐĂŶĚƌĞƐƚƌŝĐƚƚŚĞďŽĚLJ

ĂŶĚƚŚĞĐĂƐƵĂůŵŽƐƚůLJŽŶĨƵŶĐƟŽŶ͘

ƌĞƐƐŝŶŐƚŚĞďŽĚLJŝƐďŽƚŚĂƐŽĐŝĂůĂŶĚĂƉĞƌƐŽŶĂůĞdžƉĞƌŝĞŶĐĞ

ǁŚŝĐŚŚĂǀĞŽďƚĂŝŶĞĚƚŚĞĨĞŵŝŶŝŶĞďŽĚLJĂƐĂƐĞdžƵĂůďŽĚLJĂŶĚ

ŚĂǀĞŶŽƚƐƵĐĐĞĞĚƚŽĂĐŚŝĞǀĞƐĞdžƵĂůĞƋƵĂůŝƚLJƚŚĂƚƌĞƐƵůƚƐŝŶƚŚĞ

ƐĞŶƐĞƚŚĂƚǁŽŵĞŶĂƌĞƐƟůů͞ůŽĐĂƚĞĚŝŶƚŚĞďŽĚLJǁŚĞƌĞĂƐŵĞŶ

ĂƌĞƐĞĞŶĂƐƚƌĂŶƐĐĞŶĚŝŶŐŝƚ͕͟;ŶƚǁŝƐƚůĞ͕ϮϬϬϭƉŐ͘ϯϯʹϱϴͿ͘

tŽŵĞŶƐǁĞĂƌŚĂǀĞŽŌĞŶďĞĞŶĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƚĞĚƚŽĞŶǀĞůŽƉĞĂŶĚ

ŚŝĚĞƚŚĞĂĐƚƵĂůƐŚĂƉĞƐŽĨƚŚĞďŽĚLJƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĂŶĂƌƟĮĐŝĂůƐŝůŚŽƵ- ĞƩĞƚŽĐŽŶĨŽƌŵǁŝƚŚĐŽŶƚĞŵƉŽƌĂƌLJŶŽƌŵƐ͘dŚŝƐǁŽƌŬǁŝůů

ĐŚĂůůĞŶŐĞƚŚŝƐĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶďLJƵƐŝŶŐĐƵƚƐĂŶĚĚĂƌƚƐƚŽĐƌĞĂƚĞĂ

ŵŝƐĮƩĞĚƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞĂƐ͞΀ƚ΁ŚĞĚĂƌƚŝƐĂŶĞƐƐĞŶƟĂůƉĂƌƚŽĨƚŚĞ

ĐƌĞĂƟŽŶŽĨĚĞƐŝŐŶƐĂŶĚƚŚĞŝŶƚĞƌŶĂůĮƫŶŐĚĞǀŝĐĞ͟

;:ŽƐĞƉŚͲƌŵƐƚƌŽŶŐ͕ϮϬϭϯƉŐ͘ϵϴͿ͘^ƵƌĞůLJĨĂƐŚŝŽŶƚƌĞŶĚƐŚĂǀĞ

ƉƌŽŐƌĞƐƐĞĚŝŶŽƉƉŽƐŝƟŽŶƚŽŽďƐŽůĞƚĞŝĚĞĂƐŽĨŚŝŐŚůŝŐŚƟŶŐ

ĐĞƌƚĂŝŶƉĂƌƚƐŽĨƚŚĞďŽĚLJƚŽĮƚĐůĂƐƐŝĐĂůďĞĂƵƚLJƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚƐ͘/Ŷ

ƚŚĞƉĂƐƚĚĞĐĂĚĞĚƌĞƐƐŚĂǀĞďĞĞŶƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĞĚďLJĨƵŶĐƟŽŶĂůŝƚLJ͕

ĐŽŵĨŽƌƚĂŶĚĂĐĂƐƵĂůĂƉƉƌŽĂĐŚƐƵĐŚĂƐŶŽƌŵĞĐŽƌĞĂŶĚĂƚŚůĞŝ- ƐƵƌĞ͘/ŶǁŚŝĐŚ͞΀ƚ΁ŚĞĐŽŵƉůĞdžƌĞůĂƟŽŶƐŚŝƉďĞƚǁĞĞŶĐůŽƚŚŝŶŐ͕

ďŽĚLJ͕ĂŶĚƉĞƌĐĞƉƟŽŶƐŽĨĂƩƌĂĐƟǀĞŶĞƐƐŚĂƐďĞĞŶǁŝĚĞůLJ

ĞdžƉůŽƌĞĚŝŶƌĞŐĂƌĚƚŽĞƐƉĞĐŝĂůůLJĨĞŵĂůĞĚƌĞƐƐƉƌĂĐƟĐĞƐĂŶĚ

ůŽŐŝĐƐŽĨĐŚĂŶŐĞ͟;DĂĐŬŝŶŶĞLJͲsĂůĞŶƟŶ͕;ϮϬϭϳͿ͕ƉƉ͘ϱϵʹϳϵͿ͘

,ŽǁĞǀĞƌ͕ƚŚĞƌĞŝƐƐƟůůĂŵĂŝŶƐƚƌĞĂŵĂƐƐƵŵƉƟŽŶŽĨǁŚĂƚŝƐ

ĨĞŵŝŶŝŶĞŝŶƚĞƌŵƐŽĨĐƵůƚƵƌĂůůLJĂŶĚŚŝƐƚŽƌŝĐĂůůLJĐŽĚĞƐǁŚŝĐŚ

ŝŵƉĂĐƚŽŶƚŚĞǁĂLJǁĞĚƌĞƐƐǁŽŵĞŶ͘/ŶƚŚĞŬƵůƚƵƌĂů

,ŝƐƚŽƌLJŽĨƌĞƐƐĂŶĚ&ĂƐŚŝŽŶŝŶƚŚĞDŽĚĞƌŶŐĞ;ϮϬϭϳͿ͕'ĞĐnjLJ

ĂŶĚ<ĂƌĂŵŝŶĂƐĚĞƐĐƌŝďĞƚŚĞƚǁĞŶƚLJͲĮƌƐƚĐĞŶƚƵƌLJƐƚLJůĞĂƐdŚĞ

WŽƐƚͲDŝůůĞŶŶŝĂůWůĂƐƟĐŽĚLJ͕ƌĞĨĞƌƌŝŶŐƚŽƚŚĞƵŶŽĸĐŝĂůĚƌĞƐƐ

ĐŽĚĞƐďĂƐĞĚŽŶŶŽƌŵĂƟǀĞƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚƐŽŶĞdžƉĞĐƚĂƟŽŶƐŽĨƚŚĞ

ĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJǁŚŝĐŚĂƌĞŶ͛ƚĞdžƉƌĞƐƐĞĚĂƐŵƵĐŚƚŚƌŽƵŐŚƚŚĞ

ĂĐƚƵĂůƐŚĂƉĞŽĨƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͘/ŶƐƚĞĂĚƚŚŝƐĞdžƉĞĐƚĂƟŽŶƐĂƌĞ

ĂƉƉůŝĞĚƚŽƚŚĞĂĐƚƵĂůďŽĚLJŽĨǁŽŵĞŶ͘dŚĞƐĞ͕ǁŚŝĐŚĂƌĞŵŽŶŝ- ƚŽƌĞĚďLJŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐƐƵĐŚĂƐƐŚĂƉĞǁĞĂƌĂŶĚͬŽƌďŽĚLJŵŽĚŝĮĐĂ- ƟŽŶƐƐƵĐŚĂƐƐƵƌŐŝĐĂůĐŽƌƌĞĐƟŽŶƐŽƌŝŶũĞĐƟŽŶƐƚŚĂƚĐŽŶĨŽƌŵƚŽ

ƚŚĞƉƌĞǀĂŝůŝŶŐŝĚĞĂů͘DŽƌĞŽǀĞƌ͕ŝŶŇƵĞŶĐĞƐŽĨƚŽĚĂLJĂƌĞĚĞƌŝǀŝŶŐ

ĨƌŽŵ͞ĂŶĞǁƐƚLJůŝnjĞĚƚLJƉĞŽĨďŽĚLJƚŚĂƚŝƐďĞƐƚĚĞƐĐƌŝďĞĚĂƐƚŚĞ

͞ƉŽƌŶ͟ďŽĚLJĂŶĚĞdžŝƐƚƐŝŶĞdžƉŽŶĞŶƟĂůŝƚĞƌĂƟŽŶƐƚŚĂŶŬƐƚŽƚŚĞ

/ŶƚĞƌŶĞƚ͘;'ĞĐnjLJ͕<ĂƌĂŵŝŶĂƐ͕;ϮϬϭϳͿ͕ƉƉ͘ϲϯʹϴϰͿ͘

dŚĞƌĞĨŽƌĞ͕ƚŚŝƐƌĞƉŽƌƚĂŝŵƚŽŵĂŬĞǁĂLJĨŽƌŶĞǁĂŶĚĚŝǀĞƌƐĞ

ƉĞƌƐƉĞĐƟǀĞŽĨďŽĚLJƐĂŶĚĨƵŶĐƟŽŶŽĨĂŐĂƌŵĞŶƚŝŶĂƐŽĐŝŽůŽŐŝ- ĐĂůǁĂLJ͘LJĚŝƐƉůĂLJŝŶŐƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJŝŶƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽĂŶŽŶͲƚƌĂ- ĚŝƟŽŶĂůĂƐƐĞŵďůĞĚŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͕ƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬŝƐƉƌŽƉŽƐŝŶŐĂĨƵƐĞŽĨ

ĂĐĐĞŶƚƵĂƟŶŐĂŶĚƌĞƐƚƌŝĐƚƚŚĞďŽĚLJǁŝƚŚƚŚĞĨƵŶĐƟŽŶŽĨĂ

ŐĂƌŵĞŶƚŝŶĂŶĂŶƟͲĂƩƌĂĐƟǀĞŶĞƐƐŵĂŶŶĞƌŝŶĂŶŽŶĐŽŵŵĞƌĐŝĂů

ǁĂLJ͘

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.3 C O L O R / P R I N T E X P L O R A T I O N

dŽĞdžƉůŽƌĞĨƵƌƚŚĞƌƉŽƚĞŶƟĂůĨƌŽŵƚŚĞůĞĂƐƚƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵůĞdžƉĞƌŝ- ŵĞŶƚ͕ĂƌĂŶŐĞŽĨĞdžƉĞƌŝŵĞŶƚƐǁŝƚŚĐŽůŽƌĂŶĚƉƌŝŶƚŝƐĐĂƌƌŝĞĚ

ŽƵƚ͘dŚĞĮƌƐƚƐƚĞƉǁĂƐƚŽƚĞƐƚŚŽǁĐŽůŽƌǁŽƵůĚĂīĞĐƚƚŚĞ

ƚƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶƚďůŽĐŬŝŶŐƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞ͘/ĨƚŚĞĐŽůŽƌƐĂƌĞĂĚĚĞĚƚŽƚŚĞ

ƚƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶƚŵĂƚĞƌŝĂů;ĮŐƵƌĞϮϭͿ͕ĂŵŽƌĞƐƵďƚůĞĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƚŝƐ

ŽĐĐƵƌƌŝŶŐ͘^Ɵůů͕ƚŚĞƚƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶƚďůŽĐŬŝŶŐŝƐĨĂƌƚŽĚŽŵŝŶĂŶƚŝŶ

ƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽƚŚĞďŽĚLJ͘,ŽǁĞǀĞƌ͕ƚŚĞƌĞŝƐĂĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶĚĞŵŽŶƐƚƌĂ- ƚĞĚƚŚƌŽƵŐŚƚŚĞďůŽĐŬŝŶŐǁŚĞŶůŽĐŬŝŶŐĂƚƚŚĞƚƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶƚ

ƉĂƌƚƐŝŶƌĞůĂƟŽŶƚŽƚŚĞďŽĚLJĐŽŵŝŶŐƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ͘

ƚƌŝĂůŽĨĂĚĚŝŶŐĂďŽĚLJƐƵŝƚƵŶĚĞƌƚŚĞĚŝƐƚŽƌƚĞĚƚƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶƚ

ŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƚŽƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƟŶŐƚŚĞďŽĚLJƚŽŐĞƚĂŵŽƌĞƐƵďƚůĞ

ĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƚ;ĮŐƵƌĞϮϮͿ͘tŚĞŶĂĚĚŝƟŽŶĂůůLJĂĚĚŝŶŐƚŚĞďĂƐƟŶŐ

ƚŚƌĞĂĚŝŶƚŚĞƐĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƐĂĐůĞĂƌĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶŝƐŚĂƉƉĞŶŝŶŐĂŶĚ

ĂƌĞĐŽŶƐŝĚĞƌĞĚƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵů͘

&ƵƌƚŚĞƌ͕ƚŚĞďůŽĐŬŝŶŐƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞŝƐƚĞƐƚĞĚǁŝƚŚŶŽŶƚƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶƚ

ŵĂƚĞƌŝĂůĂŶĚĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚĐŽůŽƌƐ;&ŝŐƵƌĞϮϯͿ͘dŚĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƐǁŝƚŚĂ

ůĞƐƐĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƟŶŐďůŽĐŬŝŶŐĂƌĞŵŽƌĞƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵůĚƵĞƚŽŝƚƐ

ƐŚĂĚŽǁůŝŬĞĞīĞĐƚ͘

&ŝŶĂůůLJ͕ĂƐŵĂůůŝŶǀĞƐƟŐĂƟŽŶŝŶŚŽǁƉƌŝŶƚĞĚƉĂƩĞƌŶƐǁŽƵůĚ

ĂĚĚƚŽƚŚĞĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶŝƐĐŽŶƐŝĚĞƌĞĚ;ĮŐƵƌĞϮϰͿ͘dŚĞĐŽŶĐůƵƐŝŽŶ

ŝƐƚŚĂƚǁŚĞŶƚŚĞƉĂƩĞƌŶŝƐƌĞůĂƟǀĞůLJƐLJŵŵĞƚƌŝĐĂůĂŶĚŽƌĚĞƌĞĚ

ŝŶĂŚŽƌŝƐŽŶƚĂůĂŶĚͬŽƌǀĞƌƟĐĂůŵĂŶŶĞƌ͕ƚŚĞĚŝƌĞĐƟŽŶƐŽĨƚŚĞ

ĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶŝƐŵŽƌĞĚĞĮŶĞĚ͘tŚĞŶƚŚĞƉƌŝŶƚŝƐŵŽƌĞŽƌŐĂŶŝĐ

ĂŶĚƚĞĞŵŝŶŐƐƵĐŚĂƐƚŚĞƉĂŝƐůĞLJ͕ŝƚƌĂƚŚĞƌĚŝƐƚƵƌďĞĚƚŚĞůŝŶĞ

ƐLJƐƚĞŵŽĨƚŚĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͘

Figure 21.

transparent color blocking

Figure 22.

Transparent layering

Figure 23.

Color blocking

Figure 24.

Print

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.4 A N A L O G E X P L O R A T I O N

ĞĨŽƌĞŶĞŐůĞĐƟŶŐĂŶLJŽĨƚŚĞĂƉƉůŝĞĚĚĞƚĂŝůƐ͕ƐŽŵĞŽĨƚŚĞŵĂƌĞ

ƚĞƐƚĞĚŽƵƚƐŝĚĞƚŚĞĚŝŐŝƚĂůƐŽŌǁĂƌĞ͘&ŝƌƐƚŽĨƚŚĞŐĂƚŚĞƌŝŶŐ

ďĞƚǁĞĞŶƚǁŽŵŝƐĮƚĞĚƉĂƩĞƌŶƉŝĞĐĞƐĂƌĞŵĂĚĞŝŶǁŚŝƚĞƉŽůLJ- ĞƐƚĞƌƐĂƟŶ;ĮŐƵƌĞϮϱ͕ϮϲͿ͘^ĞĐŽŶĚůLJ͕ƚŚĞƉĂĚĚĞĚůĂLJĞƌŝŶŐŝƐ

ƚĞƐƚĞĚǁŝƚŚŐĂƚŚĞƌŝŶŐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϮϳͿ͘EŽŶĞŽĨƚŚĞŵĂƌĞďƌŽƵŐŚƚ

ĨŽƌǁĂƌĚƐŝŶĐĞƚŚĞƉĂĚĚĞĚƉŝĞĐĞƐƐƟůůĨĞĞůƐƚŽŚĞĂǀLJLJĞƚƐƚƌŝĐƚ

ĂŶĚƚŚĞǁŚŝƚĞĚƵĞƚŽŝƚƐďƌŝĚĂůĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶ͘

dŚĞƐĞĐŽŶĚƐƚĞƉŝƐƚŽƚƌLJŽƵƚƐŽŵĞŽĨƚŚĞŽƚŚĞƌĚĞƚĂŝůƐͬƚĞĐŚŶŝ- ƋƵĞƐĂŶĚŵĂĚĞƚŚĞŵŝŶƚŽĂĨƵůůƐĐĂůĞŐĂƌŵĞŶƚ͘^ŝŶĐĞďůĂĐŬ

ŵĂŬĞƐĂƐƚƌŽŶŐƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƚŚŝƐŝƐƚƌŝĞĚďƵƚŝŶĂƐĂƟŶĚƵĞƚŽŝƚƐ

ƐŚŝŶĞǁŚŝĐŚƐƚƌĞŶŐƚŚĞŶƚŚĞůŝŶĞƐĂŶĚĐƌĞĂƐŝŶŐ͕ĨƵƌƚŚĞƌĂǁŚŝƚĞ

ďĂƐƟŶŐƚŚƌĞĂĚŝƐůĞŌǀŝƐŝďůĞŽŶƚŚĞƚƌŽƵƐĞƌƐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϮϴ͕ϯϭͿ͘

ŶŽƚŚĞƌƚĞƐƚŝƐŵĂĚĞǁŝƚŚĂƐƵďƚůĞĐŚĞĐŬƉƌŝŶƚŽŶĂŵŽƌĞ

ƐƚƌƵĐƚƵƌĞĚĨĂďƌŝĐƚŽƐƚƌĞŶŐƚŚĞŶƚŚĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞ;ĮŐƵƌĞϯϮͿ͘dŚĞ

ƉĂƩĞƌŶƉŝĞĐĞƐĂƌĞŐŝǀĞŶĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚĐŽůŽƌƐĚƵĞƚŽĂĚũƵƐƟŶŐƚŚĞ

ƟŵĞŝŶƚŚĞŚĞĂƚƉƌĞƐƐǁŚĞŶƚƌĂŶƐĨĞƌƌŝŶŐƚŚĞƉƌŝŶƚƵŶƚŽƚŚĞ

ĨĂďƌŝĐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϮϵͿ͘>ĂƚĞƌƚŚŝƐŝƐŝŶǀĞƐƟŐĂƚĞĚĨƵƌƚŚĞƌǁŝƚŚŽƵƚ

ƉƌŝŶƚĂŶĚŽŶůLJŚĞĂƚƚŽĐƌĞĂƚĞĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚƐŚĂĚĞƐƚŽƚŚĞƉĂƩĞƌŶ

ƉŝĞĐĞƐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϯϬ͕ϯϰͿ͘LJƚƵƌŶŝŶŐƚŚĞƉƌŝŶƚĞĚƉŝĞĐĞ;ĮŐƵƌĞϯϮͿ

ŝŶƐŝĚĞŽƵƚĮŶĚŝŶŐƐŽĨďƵƌŝĞĚďůŽĐŬŝŶŐĂŶĚĂĐůĞĂƌůLJĚĞĮŶĞĚ

ǁŚŝƚĞůŝŶĞĂƉƉĞĂƌƐǁŚŝĐŚĂƌĞƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵůŝŶƚĞƌŵƐŽĨĚŝƐƉůĂLJŝŶŐ

ƚŚĞůŝŶĞƐLJƐƚĞŵ;ĮŐƵƌĞϯϯͿ

>ĂƐƚůLJ͕ĂĨƵůůLJƉĂĚĚĞĚƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞŝŶǁŚŝƚĞŝƐƚĞƐƚĞĚ͕ǁŚŝĐŚ

ĚĞŵŽŶƐƚƌĂƚĞďŽƚŚĂƐƚƌŽŶŐƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞĂŶĚƌĞůĂƟǀĞůLJĚĞĮŶĞĚ

ůŝŶĞƐĚƵĞƚŽƚŚĞĚĞƉƚŚĐƌĞĂƚĞĚďLJƚŚĞƉĂĚĚŝŶŐŝŶƚŚĞƐĞĂŵůŝŶĞ

;ĮŐƵƌĞϯϱͿ͘

Figure 25 Figure 26 Figure 27

Figure 28 Figure 29 Figure 30

Figure 31 Figure 32 Figure 33 Figure 34 Figure 35

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.5 F I R S T L I N E U P

,ĞƌĞĂĮƌƐƚůŝŶĞƵƉŝƐĨŽƌŵĞĚŽƵƚŽĨƚŚĞŵŽƐƚƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵůĞdžƉĞƌŝ- ŵĞŶƚƐƚŽƐĞĞŚŽǁƚŚĞLJĂīĞĐƚĂŶĚĐŽŵƉůŝŵĞŶƚĞĂĐŚŽƚŚĞƌ

;ĮŐƵƌĞϯϳͿ͘dǁŽŽĨƚŚĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƐĂƌĞŵĂĚĞŝŶƌĞĂůĨĂďƌŝĐƐƚŽ

ĂŶĂůLJƐĞƚŚĞŐĂƉĨƌŽŵĚŝŐŝƚĂůƚŽĂŶĂůŽŐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϯϴͿ͘

Figure 38.

Analog

Figure 37.

Digital line up

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.6 F O R M E X P L O R A T I O N N R . 2

&ƌŽŵƚŚĞĮƌƐƚůŝŶĞƵƉƚŚĞĐŽŶĐůƵƐŝŽŶǁĂƐƚŚĂƚŝƚǁĂƐƚŽƌĞƉĞƟƟ- ǀĞŝŶƚĞƌŵƐŽĨĨŽƌŵ͕ƐƵĐŚĂƐĚŝƌĞĐƟŽŶŽĨĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶŝŶŶĞĐŬůŝŶĞƐ

ŝŶƐŚŽƵůĚĞƌ͘dŚĞƌĞĨŽƌĂŶĞǁĂŶĂůLJƐĞŽĨƚŚĞƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƐǁĞƌĞ

ŵĂĚĞĂŶĚͬŽƌĐƌĞĂƚĞĚ͘dŚŝƐƟŵĞƚŚĞLJĂƌĞǀŝĞǁŽƌŵĂĚĞ

ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚǁŽƌŬŝŶŐǁŝƚŚƚŚĞŚŽƌŝƐŽŶƚĂů͕ǀĞƌƟĐĂůŽƌďŽƚŚĚŝƌĞĐƟŽŶ

ƚŽĐƌĞĂƚĞĂŵŽƌĞĚŝǀĞƌƐĞĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶ;ĮŐƵƌĞϯϵͿ͘dŚĞŵŽƐƚ

ĚŝǀĞƌƐĞƐŚĂƉĞƐĂƌĞƐĞůĞĐƚĞĚƚŽďƌŝŶŐĨŽƌǁĂƌĚŝŶƚŚĞƉƌŽĐĞƐƐ͘

HORISONTAL / VERTICAL BODY SUIT

HORISONTAL / VERTICAL BODY CON

HORISONTAL BODY SUIT

VERTICAL BODY SUIT

VERTICAL BODY CON

Figure 39.

Analysing lines

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.7 L I N E U P F O R M

ůŝŶĞƵƉŵĂĚĞĨƌŽŵĚĞĨŽƌŵĂŶĂůLJƐĞŝƐŵĂĚĞ͘tŚĞŶƉƌĞƐĞŶ- ƚĞĚŝŶǁŚŝƚĞǁŝƚŚŶŽůŝŶĞƐŵŽƐƚƐŝůŚŽƵĞƩĞƐĂƌĞƐŝŵŝůĂƌŽƌŶŽƚ

ĚŝƐƚŽƌƚĞĚĞŶŽƵŐŚ͘,ĞƌĞŝƚŝƐĐůĞĂƌƚŚĂƚĂĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƟŶŐůŝŶĞƚŽ

ŚŝŐŚůŝŐŚƚƚŚĞĐƵƚŝƐĂŶŝŵƉŽƌƚĂŶƚƉĂƌƚŽĨƚŚĞǁŽƌŬ͘

HEAVY FABRIC PLAIN WEAVE, WRONG SIDE

15 % COTTON 85% POLY

HEAVY FABRIC PLAIN WEAVE, RIGHT SIDE

15 % COTTON 85% POLY

HEAVY FABRIC SATIN?, RIGHT SIDE

100% POLY

HEAVY FABRIC SATIN?, WRONG SIDE

100% POLY

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.8 P R I N T A N D C O L O R

/ƚŝƐĚĞĐŝĚĞĚƚŚĂƚĐŽůŽƌĂŶĚƉƌŝŶƚǁŝůůďĞƚƌĂŶƐĨĞƌƉƌŝŶƚĞĚĚŝƌĞĐƚ- ůLJĨƌŽŵ>KϯƚŽƵƐĞƚŚĞƉƌŝŶƟŶŐůŝŶĞ;ĮŐƵƌĞϰϬͿĂƐƚŚĞŵĂŝŶ

ƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞƚŽĞŶŚĂŶĐĞƚŚĞĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶĂŶĚůŝŶĞƐLJƐƚĞŵ͘

dŚĞƌĞĨŽƌĞĂůĂƌŐĞďŽĚLJŽĨĐŽůŽƌĂŶĚƉƌŝŶƚƐĂŵƉůĞƐĂƌĞŵĂĚĞ

ĨƌŽŵĚŝŐŝƚĂůƚŽĂŶĂůŽŐƚŽŝĚĞŶƟĨLJƚŚĞŐĂƉŝŶƚŚĞƉƌŽĐĞƐƐĨƌŽŵ

ƚŚĞƐŽŌǁĂƌĞƚŽƌĞĂůĨĂďƌŝĐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϰϭͿ͘

PELICAN SPA BLUE ITALIAN

STRAW IRON PURITAN

GREY SPROUT

GREEN RUTABAGA CASTOR

GREY CLOUD DANCER

DIGITAL FILE

DIGITAL FILE

DIGITAL FILE

DIGITAL FILE

TRANSFER PRINT HEAVY FABRIC PLAIN WEAVE, 15 % COTON 85% POLY

TRANSFER PRINT HEAVY FABRIC PLAIN WEAVE, 15 % COTON 85% POLY

TRANSFER PRINT HEAVY FABRIC PLAIN WEAVE, 15 % COTON 85% POLY

TRANSFER PRINT HEAVY FABRIC PLAIN WEAVE, 15 % COTON 85% POLY

TRANSFER PRINT TRANSPARENT FABRIC SCREEN CLOTH, 73-55 100% PET

Figure 40 printing line

Figure 41.

Digital to analog swatches

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.9 S H I L O U E T T E S W I T H P R I N T I N G L I N E

dŚĞƉƌŝŶƟŶŐůŝŶĞƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌǁŝƚŚĂĐŽůŽƌƐĐŚĞŵĞĨƌŽŵƚŚĞĞĂƌůŝĞƌ

ĞdžƉĞƌŝŵĞŶƚƐĂƌĞƚĞƐƚĞĚŽŶƐŽŵĞƐŚŝůŽƵĞƩĞƐ͕ĐƌĞĂƟŶŐĂůŝŶĞƵƉ

ŽĨϳůŽŽŬƐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϰϮͿ͘dŚĞǁŚŝƚĞůŝŶĞǁŽƌŬƐǁĞůůƚŽĚŝƐƉůĂLJƚŚĞ

ƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞĂŶĚƚŚĞƐŚĂƉĞƐ͘,ŽǁĞǀĞƌ͕ƚŚĞĚŝŵĞŶƐŝŽŶŽĨƚŚĞůŝŶĞ

ĐŽƵůĚďĞĞdžƉůŽƌĞĚĨƌƵƚŚĞƌ͘

Figure 42.

Line up of 7 with printing line.

Transfer print Heavy structured upholstery fabric 1 cm printing line

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.10 D I M E N S I O N P R I N T I N G L I N E

,ĞƌĞƚŚĞůŝŶĞƐĂƌĞĞdžƉůŽƌĞĚŝŶĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚĚŝŵĞŶƐŝŽŶĂƐǁĞůůĂƐ

ĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞƐ;ĮŐƵƌĞϰϯ͕ϰϰ͕ϰϱͿ͘ƌĞŝŶƚƌŽĚƵĐƟŽŶŽĨƚŚĞ

ƚƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶƚŵĂƚĞƌŝĂůŝƐŵĂĚĞŝŶĂůŝŶĞƵƉŽĨϲ;ĮŐƵƌĞϰϲͿƚŽ

ƉůĂLJǁŝƚŚĂƐƵďƚůĞĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƚďĞƚǁĞĞŶƚŚĞĚŝƐƚŽƌƚĞĚŐĂƌŵĞŶƚĂŶĚ

the body.

Figure 43.

layers of silk organza and cotton fusing.

Figure 44.

testing dimension of the line as well as fabric

Figure 45.

Cotton fusing line 2 cm on silk tulle

Figure 46.

Line up in silk organza with cotton fusing line.

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.11 T R A N S F E R P R I N T T O W O V E N S T R U C T U R E tŚĞŶĚĞĐŝĚŝŶŐƚŽŶŽƚǁŽƌŬǁŝƚŚƚŚĞƚƌĂŶƐĨĞƌƉƌŝŶƚ͕ĂŶĞǁ

ĞdžƉůŽƌĂƟŽŶŝƐŵĂĚĞĨƌŽŵƚŚĞĞĂƌůŝĞƌĐŽůŽƌĂŶĚƉĂƩĞƌŶƐĐŚĞŵĞ

ƚŽĮŶĚƐŝŵŝůĂƌĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶ;ĮŐƵƌĞϰϳͿ͘

ŽŵƉĞƌŝŶŐƚŚĞƚƌĂŶƐĨĞƌƉƌŝŶƚĞĚƚĞƐƚ;ĮŐƵƌĞϰϴͿƚŽƚŚĞĨƵƐŝŶŐƚĞƐƚ

;ĮŐƵƌĞϰϵͿ͕ƚŚĞĨƵƐŝŶŐŝƐĐŽŶƐŝĚĞƌĞĚŵŽƌĞƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵůƚŽƚŽŝƚƐ

ƐŚĂƌƉůŝŶĞƐ͘

Figure 48. Transfer printed Figure 49. Cotton fusing

Figure 47.

Translating fabrics, color and print.

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.11 T R A N S F E R P R I N T T O W O V E N S T R U C T U R E

WOOL ANALOGUE CLOSE UP

WOOL ANALOGUE DRAPE

WOOL DIGITAL DRAPE WOOL DIGITAL

CLOSE UP TRASPERPRINT

POLYESTER DIGITAL

COLOR FILE

SILK / WOOL

ANALOGUE CLOSE UP SILK / WOOL

ANALOGUE DRAPE SILK / WOOL

DIGITAL DRAPE SILK / WOOL

DIGITAL CLOSE UP TRASPERPRINT

POLYESTER DIGITAL

COLOR FILE

L O O K 1 HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - BEND

L O O K 3 HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - HUNGE

L O O K 4 HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - CRINGE

L O O K 7 HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - TILT

L O O K 8

HOISONTAL LINE BODY SUIT - BOW

L O O K 9 VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - TURN L O O K 5

HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY CON - SLANT

L O O K 6 VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - SLUMP L O O K 2

VERTICAL LINE BODY CON - TWIST

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.12 C O T T O N F U S I N G L I N E UP

ůŝŶĞƵƉŽĨϵŝƐŶĂƌƌŽǁĞĚĚŽǁŶŝŶƚĞƌŵƐŽĨƵƐŝŶŐƐŝŵŝůĂƌĨĂďƌŝĐƐ

ĂŶĚĐŽůŽƌƐǁŝƚŚĂĐŽƩŽŶĨƵƐŝŶŐůŝŶĞŝŶĚŝīƌĞŶƚĚŝŵĞŶƐŝŽŶ͘dŚĞ

ĂŶĂůLJƐĞŽĨƚŚŝƐůŝŶĞƵƉŝƐƚŚĂƚŝƚƐƟůŵŝŐŚƚďĞƚŽƐŝŵŝůĂƌĞƚŽŽŶĞ

ĂŶŽƚŚĞƌ͘

L O O K 3 HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - HUNGE

L O O K 4 HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - CRINGE

L O O K 2 VERTICAL LINE BODY CON - TWIST

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.13 G O I N G B A C K

dŽŐĞƚĂďĞƩĞƌƵŶĚĞƌƐƚĂŶĚŝŶŐŽĨƚŚĞŽƵƞŝƚƐĂŶĚǁŚĂƚŝƐŵŝƐƐŝŶŐ

ŽƌŵŝŐŚƚƐƚƌĞŶŐƚŚĞŶƚŚĞŵ͘ŶŝŶǀĞƐƟŐĂƟŽŶŝƐŵĂĚĞŽŶŚŽǁƚŚĞLJ

ŚĂǀĞďĞĞŶĚĞǀĞůŽƉĞĚĨƌŽŵƐƚĂƌƚƚŽŵĂŬĞĂŶĞǁƐĞůĞĐƟŽŶĨŽƌĂ

ŵŽƌĞƐƵĐĐĞƐƐĨƵůůŝŶĞƵƉ͘

L O O K 1 HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - BEND

L O O K 7 HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - TILT

L O O K 9 VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - TURN L O O K 5 HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY CON - SLANT

L O O K 6 VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - SLUMP

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.13 G O I N G B A C K

HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - CRINGE

layers of silk tulle

and cotton fusing. layers of silk organza

and cotton fusing.

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.15 L O O K 1

D E V E L O P M E N T

4.2.16 L O O K 2

L O O K 4 HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - CRINGE

R E S U L T

DIGITAL LINE UP FRONT

R E S U L T A N D D I S C U S S I O N

WƌŝŵĂƌŝůLJƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬŚĂǀĞĐŽŵĞƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌĂƐ

ĂĞŝŐŚƚŽƵƞŝƚĐŽůůĞĐƟŽŶǁŚŝĐŚĚŝƐƉůĂLJ

ĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶƐŽĨƚŚĞďŽĚŝůLJůŝŶĞƐ͘

ĂĐŚŽƵƞŝƚƌĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚǁĂLJƐŽĨ

ƉƌĞƐĞŶƟŶŐƚŚĞƐĞƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƟŶŐĐŽůŽƌ͕

ƉĂƩĞƌŶƐĂŶĚĐƵƚƐ͕ƌĞƐƵůƟŶŐŝŶĂĚŝǀĞƌƐĞ

ĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶƚŚƌŽƵŐŚƚŚĞƐĂŵĞŵĞƚŚŽĚ͘dŚĞ

ĐŽŶƚƌĂƐƚƌĞƐƵůƚĞĚŝŶĂŶĞŶŚĂŶĐĞďŽĚŝůLJŐƌŝĚ

ǁŚŝĐŚĚĞŵŽŶƐƚƌĂƚĞĂŶĚĐůĂƌŝĨLJƚŚĞůŝŶĞƐŽĨ

ƚŚĞďŽĚLJ͘dŚĞƐĞŚĂǀĞďĞĞŶƚŚĞŵĂŝŶĨŽĐƵƐ

ŽĨƚŚĞǁŽƌŬƚŽŚŝŐŚůŝŐŚƚƚŚĞĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ͘

^ĞĐŽŶĚĂƌLJƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬŝƐĂƌĞƐƵůƚŽĨƚƌĂŶƐůĂ- ƟŶŐĂŶĂůŽŐƵĞĚĞƐŝŐŶƐƚŽĚŝŐŝƚĂůĂŶĚǀŝĐĞ

ǀĞƌƐĂ͘dŚĞŵĂŝŶƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞŽĨĂƐƐĞŵďůĞ

ŵŝƐĮƩĞĚƉĂƩĞƌŶƉŝĞĐĞƐŚĂǀĞďĞĞŶĚĞƉĞŶ- ĚĞĚŽŶƚŚĞĚŝŐŝƚĂůƐŽŌǁĂƌĞǁŚŝĐŚĞŶĂďůĞƚŽ

ƐĐĂůĞĂŶĚĚƌĂƉĞƚŚĞƉĂƩĞƌŶŵƵůƟƉůĞƟŵĞƐ

ƚŽĂĐŚŝĞǀĞƚŚĞĐŽƌƌĞĐƚĚŝƐƚŽƌƟŽŶĂŶĚŵŝƐĮƚ͘

dŚĞďĂĐŬĂŶĚĨŽƌǁĂƌƚŚďĞƚǁĞĞŶĚŝŐŝƚĂůĂŶĚ

ĂŶĂůŽŐƵĞĚĞƐŝŐŶŝŶŐŚĂǀĞŐĞŶĞƌĂƚĞĚĂ

ƉƌŽĨŽƵŶĚĂƩĞŶƟŽŶƚŽĚĞƚĂŝůŝŶƚĞƌŵƐŽŵ

ŵĂƚĞƌŝĂůĂŶĚĐŽůŽƌ͘dŚĞƐĞǁŚŝĐŚŚĂǀĞďĞĞŶ

ŽĨŐƌĞĂƚŝŵƉŽƌƚĂŶĐĞƚŽĞŶŚĂŶĐĞƚŚĞĚŝƐƚŽƌ- ƟŽŶŽĨƚŚĞůŝŶĞƐǁŚŝĐŚŚĂǀĞďĞĞŶĐƌƵĐŝĂůĨŽƌ

ƚŚĞƌĞƐƵůƚ͘

dŚƌŽƵŐŚĞdžƚƌĂĐƟŶŐĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂůĞůĞŵĞŶƚƐ

ĨƌŽŵŐĂƌŵĞŶƚĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶĂŶĚĨƵƐŝŶŐƚŚĞŵ

ǁŝƚŚĂƵŶĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂůĂƉƉƌŽĂĐŚƚŽƚŚĞ

ĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJ͕ƚŚŝƐǁŽƌŬƚĂƌŐĞƚƚŽŝŶƐƉŝƌĞŶĞǁ

ǁĂLJƐŽĨƉƌĞƐĞŶƚƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞĨŽƌŵƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ

ĚƌĞƐƐ͘/ŶƚŚŝƐƌĞƉŽƌƚ͕ƐƵŐŐĞƐƟŽŶƐŽĨƐŝůŚŽƵĞƚ- ƚĞƐǁŝƚŚĨŽĐƵƐŽŶƚŚĞĐƵƚŝƐƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĞĚ͘

,ŽǁĞǀĞƌƚŚŝƐŵĞƚŚŽĚŽĨĐƌĞĂƟŶŐƐŚĂƉĞĂŶĚ

ĞdžƉƌĞƐƐŝŽŶĐŽƵůĚďĞĨƵƌƚŚĞƌĚĞǀĞůŽƉĞĚ͘LJ

ŝŶƚƌŽĚƵĐŝŶŐŵŽƌĞǁĞĂƌĂďŝůŝƚLJƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ

ĂƌĐŚĞƚLJƉĂůŐĂƌŵĞŶƚƐĂŶĚƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂůŵĂƚĞƌŝ- ĂůƐ͕ƚŚŝƐŵĞƚŚŽĚĐŽƵůĚĨƵƌƚŚĞƌĞŶĐŽƵƌĂŐĞ

ĂŶĚĚŝƐƉůĂLJƉƌŽŐƌĞƐƐŝǀĞŶĞǁŝĚĞĂůƌĞŐĂƌĚŝŶŐ

ƚŚĞĨĞŵĂůĞďŽĚLJ͘

L O O K 9 VERTICAL LINE BODY SUIT - TURN

R E S U L T

DIGITAL LINE UP BACK

R E S U L T

ANALOG LINE UP

LOOK 1 - HORISONTAL LINE - BODY SUIT LINE: 2 CM COTTON FUSING

MATERIAL: SILK TULLE

COLOR: WHITE

LOOK 4 - HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE - BODY CON LINE: 4 CM COTTON FUSING

MATERIAL: WOOL PLAIN WEAVE

COLOR: PELICAN

L O O K 3 - HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE - BODY SUIT

L O O K 3 - HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE - BODY SUIT

L O O K 6 - VERTICAL LINE - BODY CON

L O O K 6 - VERTICAL LINE - BODY CON

color: sky blue

L O O K 8 - HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE - BODY SUIT

L O O K 8+ - HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE - BODY SUIT

L O O K 8 - HOISONTAL / VERTICAL LINE - BODY SUIT

R E F E R E N C E S

&ĞŚĞƌ͕D͕͘EĂĚĚĂī͕Z͘ĂŶĚdĂnjŝ͕E͘;ϭϵϴϵͿ͘&ƌĂŐŵĞŶƚƐĨŽƌĂ

ŚŝƐƚŽƌLJŽĨƚŚĞŚƵŵĂŶďŽĚLJ͘EĞǁzŽƌŬ͕Ez͗hƌnjŽŶĞ͘

:ŽŶĞƐ͕:͘;ϭϵϵϮͿ͘ĞƐŝŐŶŵĞƚŚŽĚƐ͘EĞǁzŽƌŬ͗sĂŶEŽƐƚƌĂŶĚ

ZĞŝŶŚŽůĚ͘

>ŽƐĐŝĂůƉŽ͕&͘;ϮϬϭϭͿ͚&ĂƐŚŝŽŶĂŶĚWŚŝůŽƐŽƉŚŝĐĂůĞĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ͗

&ĂƐŚŝŽŶŝŶͲĞĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ͛ŝŶ&ĂƐŚŝŽŶ&ŽƌǁĂƌĚ͕΀ĞŬ΁͕

ĞĚŝƚĞĚďLJ͘ĚĞtŝƩͲWĂƵůĂŶĚD͘ƌŽƵĐŚ͕/ŶƚĞƌͲŝƐĐŝƉůŝŶĂƌLJ

WƌĞƐƐ͕KdžĨŽƌĚ͕/^E͗ϵϳϴͲϭͲϴϰϴϴϴͲϬϬϭ͕ƉƉ͘ϭϯͲϮϳ΀ĐĐĞƐƐĞĚϵ

:ĂŶ͘ϮϬϮϬ΁

^ŽƌŐĞƌ͕Z͘ĂŶĚhĚĂůĞ͕:͘;ϮϬϭϳͿ͘dŚĞ&ƵŶĚĂŵĞŶƚĂůƐŽĨ&ĂƐŚŝŽŶ

ĞƐŝŐŶ͘ϯƌĚĞĚ͘΀ĞŬ΁ůKEKE͗ůŽŽŵƐďƵƌLJsŝƐƵĂůƌƚƐ͕

ƉƉ͘ϯϲͲϳϱ͘ǀĂŝůĂďůĞĂƚ͗ŚƩƉƐ͗ͬͬǁǁǁͲďůŽŽŵƐďƵƌLJĨĂƐŚŝŽŶĐĞŶ- ƚƌĂůͲĐŽŵ͘ůŝď͘ĐŽƐƚĞůůŽ͘ƉƵď͘Śď͘-

ƐĞͬƉƌŽĚƵĐƚƐͬĨĂŝƌĐŚŝůĚͲŬƐͲůŝďƌĂƌLJͬŬͬƚŚĞͲĨƵŶĚĂŵĞŶƚĂůƐͲŽĨ ͲĨĂƐŚŝŽŶͲĚĞƐŝŐŶͲϭͬĚĞƐŝŐŶ΀ĐĐĞƐƐĞĚϵ:ĂŶ͘ϮϬϮϬ΁͘

dĂƚĞ͘Ŷ͘Ě͘&ĞŵŝŶŝƐŵŶĚDĞĚŝĂʹŝƐƉůĂLJƚdĂƚĞDŽĚĞƌŶͮ

dĂƚĞ͘΀ŽŶůŝŶĞ΁ǀĂŝůĂďůĞĂƚ͗фŚƩƉƐ͗ͬͬǁǁǁ͘ƚĂƚĞ͘ŽƌŐ͘ƵŬͬǀŝƐŝƚͬƚĂ- ƚĞͲŵŽĚĞƌŶͬĚŝƐƉůĂLJͬŵĞĚŝĂͲŶĞƚǁŽƌŬƐͬĨĞŵŝŶŝƐŵͲĂŶĚͲŵĞĚŝĂх

΀ĐĐĞƐƐĞĚϮϮDĂƌĐŚϮϬϮϬ΁͘

dŚŽƌŶƋƵŝƐƚ͕͘;ϮϬϭϬͿ͘ƌƟƐƟĐĞǀĞůŽƉŵĞŶƚŝŶ΀&ĂƐŚŝŽŶ΁

ĞƐŝŐŶ͘d&͗ŽƌĊƐ

tĂƌƌ͕d͘ĂŶĚ:ŽŶĞƐ͕͘;ϮϬϭϮͿ͘dŚĞĂƌƟƐƚΖƐďŽĚLJ͘EĞǁzŽƌŬ͗

WŚĂŝĚŽŶWƌĞƐƐ͕ƉƉ͘ϮϮͲϮϯ͘