Swedish Luxury Leading the Way
Toward Sustainable Change
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BACHELOR THESIS WITHIN: Business Administration
NUMBER OF CREDITS: 15 hp
PROGRAMME OF STUDY: International Management
AUTHOR: Emmie Dejin, Amanda Lindström, Alicia Åberg
JÖNKÖPING May 2021
An explorative study investigating sustainable change in the Swedish
luxury goods industry
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Acknowledgements
We would like to acknowledge the assistance from our tutor Michal Zawadzki. Along with the members of our opposition groups, our tutor has contributed with feedback throughout the writing process which have enabled the completion and accomplishment of this thesis. We also would like to thank the interviewed managers for dedicating their time in participation of our study. The valuable insights, regarding sustainability and the Swedish luxury goods industry, that have emerged during this research, would not have been possible without their engagement and contribution. Lastly, we would like to thank all the people, friends and family, who have supported and guided us throughout the entire process.
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Bachelor Thesis in Business Administration
Title: Swedish Luxury Leading the Way Toward Sustainable Change Authors: E. Dejin, A. Lindström and A. Åberg
Tutor: Michal Zawadzki Date: 2021-05-24
Key terms: Luxury Goods Industry, Sustainability, Customer Demand, Generation Y and Z,
Decision-Making, Organisational Change Management, Organisational Change Management + Rational Approach
Abstract
Background: Luxury are growing in market size and a wider group of consumers are setting new demands in the industry. The increasing awareness for the environment has put the industry in a direction towards sustainable change. For organisations to implement sustainable strategies successfully, the initiatives must be coherent with the organisation’s cultural values and purpose, thus must consider internal and external factors.
Purpose: The purpose was to gain understanding in what driving forces impact organisations in the Swedish luxury goods industry, to work with sustainability. Furthermore, the aim was then to understand how organisations in said industry are addressing changes toward sustainability.
Method: The research conducted followed a qualitative design, an inductive approach and with an explorative nature, all under an interpretive philosophy. The data consisted of existing literature and collected empirics in the form of semi-structured in-dept interviews. The collected data was analysed with a thematic analysis and interpreted through the theory of organisational change management.
Conclusion: The indicated drivers from the research consisted of the pressures from external environment, e.g. politics and economic incentives, and the need to evolve in coherence with industry transformation, based on changing customer demands. The industry is addressing it through taking greater responsibility and counteracting mass-consumption for instance by adopting a holistic view of sustainability. In conclusion, sustainability is considered a natural attribute of Swedish luxury goods. The result was summarised in the framework Sustainable
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Table of Contents
1. Introduction ...1 Background ... 1 Problem Discussion ... 2 Purpose ... 3 Research Question ... 4 Delimitations... 4 2. Frame of Reference ...5Organisational Change Management Theory ... 5
2.1.1. An Approach to Organisational Change Management Theory ... 6
2.1.2. Sustainability in Relation to Organisational Change Management ... 7
Sustainability in a Corporate Environment ... 8
2.2.1. Embedded Sustainability ... 9
2.2.2. Circularity as a Corporate Strategy ...10
2.2.3. Communicating Sustainability ...10
The Luxury Goods Industry ... 11
2.3.1. Changing Consumer Behaviour ...11
3. Method ... 13 Research Philosophy ... 13 Research Approach ... 13 Research Design... 14 Research Nature ... 15 Data Collection ... 15 3.5.1. Primary Data ...15 3.5.2. Secondary Data ...18 Analysis Method ... 19 3.6.1. Analysis Process...19 Research Quality ... 21 3.7.1. Credibility ...21 3.7.2. Transferability ...21 3.7.3. Dependability ...22 3.7.4. Confirmability ...22 Ethical Consideration ... 22 4. Empirical Findings ... 24
Introduction of the Interviewed Luxury Companies ... 24
4.1.1. Manager 1 (M1) ...24
4.1.2. Manager 2 (M2) ...24
4.1.3. Manager 3 (M3) ...25
Interview Findings ... 25
4.2.1. Forces Driving Sustainable Change ...25
4.2.2. Ways of Addressing Sustainability ...32
5. Analysis ... 37
Concepts and Themes ... 37
Pressure from External Environment ... 37
5.2.1. Politics ...37
5.2.2. Economic Incentives ...39
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Need to Evolve in Coherence with Industry Transformation ... 41
5.3.1. New Mobility ...41
5.3.2. Technological Advancement ...42
5.3.3. Meaningful Luxury Brands ...43
Taking Greater Responsibility ... 44
5.4.1. Holistic View of Sustainability ...44
5.4.2. Circularity as a Corporate Strategy ...45
Counteract Mass-Consumption ... 46
5.5.1. Sustainable Products ...46
5.5.2. Efficient Production ...47
5.5.3. Long-Term Perspective ...48
Proposed Framework: Sustainable Change Management – a Framework for the Swedish Luxury Goods Industry ... 50
6. Conclusion... 51 7. Discussion ... 53 Limitations ... 53 Implications ... 54 Further Research ... 54 References... 55 Appendices ... 59 Appendix 1... 59 Appendix 2... 60 Tables Table 1: Participants ... 17 Table 2: Interviews ... 18
Table 3: Search Parameters ... 19
Table 4: Concept and Themes ... 37
Table of Figures Figure 1: Proposed Framework: Sustainable Change Management – a Framework for the Swedish Luxury Goods Industry ... 50
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1. Introduction
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The purpose of this section is to introduce the reader to the chosen topic for this research. A background of the chosen research field is presented, and the highlighted problem is discussed including an establishment of the study’s purpose including the research questions.
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Background
The concept of luxury was in the beginning only relevant for kings and queens, something for the rich with excessive amounts of money to waste and show off. Nowadays, luxury has become a mass marketing phenomenon embraced by everyday people. There is a shift happening in the entire industry of luxury consumption, where current generations are enjoying more material comfort than ever before. Cultural heritage is replaced by personal fulfilment and aspirations through experience. Luxury consumption is still closely associated with status but less about monetary value and argued that it has become more about experience and authenticity (Moreno et al., 2017). As societies are becoming increasingly affluent, luxury is becoming more accessible to the masses and consumers are gaining more bargain power. Thus, the concept of luxury is becoming more and more influenced by a broader consumer demand (Yeoman, 2010).
In recent years, the demand for sustainability is increasing and corporations are expected to have full transparency towards stakeholders inside and outside the company (Laszlo and Zhexembayeva, 2011). The market expects businesses to lead the change by practicing responsibility, morality and sustainability. This development has rapidly been driven by the increased awareness of climate change and the entrance of the Millennials and Generation Z in the market. Deloitte’s Millennial Survey (2019) shows that the Millennials and Generation Z care more than other generations about making a difference and contributing to a better society. Following, with the demand for a unique purchasing experience and innovative green solutions,
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new values are at the forefront driving consumption and a transition is happening in the luxury goods industry (Moreno et al., 2017; Gurău, 2012; Laszlo and Zhexembayeva, 2011).
With changing demands in the market, luxury brands can no longer effortlessly rely on their existing business strategies. Companies are put in a position where they need to examine themselves and ask the question whether they embody the values of their customers and if they will be able to rely on their current revenue streams in the future. For companies to be able to adapt their organisation to meet new demands, there is a need to understand consumer purchasing behaviours regarding sustainability and how that drives the change within organisations.
The Prosperity Index report by the Legatum Institute (2020) shows how the Nordic countries top the world ranking for personal and organizational prosperity while paving the way for sustainability. However, studies have not yet directly addressed how the Swedish luxury goods industry have adapted to the rapid changes in their industry with the growing need for sustainability and what is driving organisational change in the matter.
Problem Discussion
With the luxury goods industry being a growing market (Shen et al., 2020), increased demands are realised. Historically, driving purchasing factors among customers in the luxury goods industry was focused on monetary value and social status; which has today shifted towards the personal fulfilment and aspirations through experience which is the value customers identify with (Moreno et al., 2017; Gurău, 2012; Bucic et al., 2012). The issue with the luxury goods industry is that, previously, it was not significantly impacted by the discussion around sustainability and climate change. Reasons for this are the traditional heritage and values of the target customer and that luxury goods have not been mass consumed to the same extent as mainstream products. This is on the basis that luxury goods had a role in society to elevate people from their daily routines. When making a purchase like this, sustainability was removed from the purchase decision criteria (Kapferer and Michaut-denizeau, 2014). With an expanding customer group and raised awareness overall in the market, the challenge for companies is how to navigate through this development. There is a need for organisations to understand how to
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successfully incorporate strategic changes regarding sustainability actions into their business strategies (Laszlo and Zhexembayeva, 2011).
Previous research examines the presence of sustainable actions (Kapferer and Michaut-denizeau, 2014; Jaegler and Goessling, 2020; D´Adamo and Lupi, 2021; Selvefors et al., 2019; Corona et al., 2019; Bundgaard and Huulgaard, 2019) and covers reasons for working with sustainability and the importance of understanding the drivers (Sroufe, 2019). However, no study has chosen to examine what the drivers that cause change within the Swedish manufacturing luxury goods industry, particularly are. Such knowledge would be beneficial to understand the reason for changing in coherence with the industry development. Thus, beneficial for any industry player and stakeholder with the ambition of setting strategies with a long-term perspective. Furthermore, there is an existing gap as to how sustainability changes have been adopted into business strategies of luxury goods companies and why. Hence, there is cause for investigating how the growing demand for sustainability has been addressed by companies and interpreting such actions through the lens of organisational change management. The generated insights should lead to a deeper understanding of the Swedish luxury goods industry which can aid other companies on their journey towards sustainability and change in general.
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to investigate what factors impact organisations in the Swedish luxury goods industry to work with sustainability. Furthermore, this study aims to be able to distinguish how companies, operating in the Swedish luxury goods industry, are addressing the change in the demand regarding luxury goods. The aim is to contribute with meaningful insights to the urgent topic of sustainability and organisational change management. Thus, by studying said chosen social phenomena, the purpose it to explore it in depth to gain a deeper understanding and make interpretations of its implications for organisations today. With a focus on the Swedish manufacturing luxury goods industry, the findings ought to be relevant for organisations operating within the industry, giving complementary and new insights as to how to address and implement sustainability on a strategic level. Therefore, distinguishing what drivers that impact decision-making is fundamental for building sustainable business models.
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The organisational change management theory will contribute to understanding what is happening when change in the organisation is occurring and understanding what is causing the changes. The theory therefore contributes with interpretation and sense making of the collected empirics.
Research Question
- What are the forces driving sustainable change within the Swedish manufacturing
luxury goods industry and how are organisations in said industry addressing this change?
Delimitations
The research is focused on investigating the Swedish manufacturing luxury goods industry. Choosing the luxury goods industry was because of the authors’ interest in the high-end market; where luxury companies are being renowned for high prices and high margins, which increases the interest to learn about their sustainability work. The study was delimited from investigating the whole industry but instead focused on manufacturing goods. The reason being, most of the aspects in regard to sustainability occurs during production process and is not applicable for the service industry. To ensure a result which enables generalisation and comparability, the authors chose to limit the scope to only investigating the Swedish market segment.
The chosen companies which were the subjects of the study are positioned somewhere between premium and luxury, as the Swedish luxury industry is somewhat below the global average price level. The selection process resulted in three diverse companies suitable for the purpose of the study was chosen. They represented different segments, varied in size from small, medium to large, used different materials and methods for manufacturing, but still target the same customer group. It was therefore concluded that the three companies were sufficient for the study.
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2. Frame of Reference
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The outline of this chapter is to provide the reader with an understanding of the topic through presenting existing literature and theory in the field. The concepts of sustainability and the luxury goods industry in relation to organisational change management theory are explained. The research uses organisation change management theory for interpretation and sense making of the collected empirical data.
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Organisational Change Management Theory
In the face of today’s challenging business environment with changing consumer demand and increased competition, change is an unavoidable necessity. Taking initiatives regarding strategic change which cut deeply into all levels of the organisation must be coupled with a compelling reason for why the proposed direction of action is crucial (Diefenbach, 2007). Organisation change management must also include a focus on the corporate culture as it is the most important enabler or hinderer for any kind of change (Fichter, 2019).
Organisational change is a matter of great complexity, dynamics and sometimes paradoxical. Over time, a general theory has been developed as to how an organisation experiences change and how managers may control it in the most efficient way (Hughes, 2018). The organisation change theory has been divided into different approaches. Smith and Graetz (2011) went into detail to explain these approaches which have been adopted by practitioners, managers and teachers in the matter of managing and leading organisational change. Individuals may position themselves or their research, practice or teaching according to one of these approaches. Moreover, a combination of two or three approaches may be used as a framework if favourable to the specific situation (Smith and Graetz, 2011).
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2.1.1. An Approach to Organisational Change Management Theory
Following this section is an explanation of the approach of organisational change management theory which are used as a phenomenon within this study. The approach contributes to interpretation of the decision-making during change within the investigated companies.
2.1.1.1. The Rational Approach
The rational philosophy described by Smith and Graetz (2011) is often referred to as the ‘strategic approach’. Driven by logical, linear and rational arguments, change occurs as a decision by managers or change agents that impose a strategic change to the organisation which they deem necessary. Furthermore, this is the most used approach regarding organisational change management (Smith and Graetz, 2011; Hughes, 2018). Its success, however, is highly dependent on the leadership of the organisation’s management. With the belief that everything in an organisation can be controlled and managed by the leaders’ vision and actions, then this approach certainly comes to stand above all controversy. However, it is paramount that leaders have enough authority to impact the minds of the people in its organisation. This is usually done by finding the fit between vision and the environment, so the strategic organisational change may have impact and performance may be optimised. By thinking the rational way, these environmental pressures should be tackled with strategic responses which emerge from sufficient analysis with taking in the organisation’s strengths and weaknesses and competitors in consideration. However, the selection of the right strategy is more complex and uncertain than a rationalist thinker would imply. While unexpected events occur and plans are destroyed, the strategic thinking, unavoidably, is disturbed as well. With that said, organisations need to manage their change by adapting its policies to turn vision into desired outcome (Smith and Graetz, 2011).
Peltonen and Mills (2016) presented a new perspective of the rational approach by bringing up possible limitations to it. They aimed at transforming the definition of rationality from revolving around considering facts objectively and making a logical decision to the wider psychological analysis of alternatives and consequences. The emphasis was on how decision-making in organisations always contains evaluation and prioritization of various possible consequences. Since the future lies outside of a rationality-based decision from the
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information available today, individuals have to approach it by evaluating certain alternative consequences and try to determine which one might be the most desirable or realistic.
Focusing the decision-making on possible alternatives and consequences from the perspective of current societal changes will thereof result in a particular form of organization which is adaptable at any given time. The structure of such approach ought to be flexible and adapted to the contextual factors within the environment of the organisation, while tied to the wider macroeconomic societal and market-related factors. It ought to be an approach that is related to human relations, or any other cultural modern approaches, which are more scientific and analytical than the rational approach of organisational theory. On one hand, the decision-makers and top management strive to take circumstantial factors and all facts into
consideration which many times lead to fact-based and logical decisions. On the other hand, the human decision-making process is only limitedly rational even at best, which is why situational evaluations made by managers should be complemented with objective and systematic information about the contextual dynamics surrounding the organisation.
2.1.2. Sustainability in Relation to Organisational Change Management
Appelbaum et al. (2016) states that organisational sustainability is determined by the top-management’s ability to seize cultural and psychological barriers of organisational change, as well as their real objectives. Lazano (2018) states that in order for organisations to implement sustainable strategies successfully, they must be coherent with the organisation’s cultural values and purpose. Lazano (2018) further argues the importance for organisations to work with the concept of sustainability in a holistic way. In the context of successfully implementing strategic sustainability initiatives (Sroufe, 2017), success factors are determined by the organisation’s ability to integrate sustainability in an organisational change management view. In order to further evaluate the meaning of integrating strategic sustainability initiatives, working across business units as a bottom line is of vital importance, for instance, management decision-making, transparency and external reporting. Sroufe (2019) further argues for the importance of understanding internal drivers when implementing sustainability initiatives in an organisation. Examples of internal drivers are mentioned to be organisational systems, top-management and the internal environment of the organisations. External drivers also play a
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vital role in the implementation of sustainability within an organisation, i.e., regulations, customers demand, stakeholders demand (Sroufe, 2019). The top-managements perception of weather to focus on stakeholder values determines the implementation success of strategic sustainability change initiatives (Appelbaum, et al., 2016). In conclusion, for organisations to successfully implement sustainable initiative, arguments for ‘why’ and ‘how’ stainability initiatives should be implemented has to be determined; and further view it as organisational change initiatives (Sroufe, 2017; Appelbaum et al.,2016) Moreover, the organisations should consider in what way working with sustainability in a professional manner can result in higher performance. Lastly, in what way organisational change management can be used in order to integrate sustainability throughout various business units (Sroufe, 2019). When working with sustainability on organisational change level, it impacts the business culture but also the organisations’ relations with the community.
Sustainability in a Corporate Environment
Sustainability concerns receive more attention each year that passes. Székely and Knirsch (2005) argues that all companies will encounter situations when they need to make judgements regarding ethical issues. Hence, the need to have established moral and ethical guidelines is of importance to avoid having to deal with unethical behaviour causing problematic situations within the organisation or even public scrutiny. According to Deresky (2017), responsible companies take into consideration the welfare of the various stakeholders affected by the activities that are undertaken by the corporation. In a perfect world, all business activities should be motivated by an underlying commitment to the basic principles of humanity such as integrity, fairness and respect for other people. Responsible business practices are linked to the concept of sustainability, which is at the intersection of what is sometimes described as the triple bottom line; profit, people and planet. Székely and Knirsch (2005) agree with Deresky (2017) and describe sustainability work being about building a society where there is balance between the economic, social and ecological aims in the long run. This means adopting and pursuing ethical business practices, creating sustainable jobs, building value for all the company’s stakeholders and attending to the needs of the underserved (Székely and Knirsch, 2005).
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Laszlo and Zhexembayeva (2011) introduced the idea of embedded sustainability which explains the global phenomena of business leaders pursuing sustainability, not as a way of pleasing environmentally conscious customers but as a way of taking industry leadership. This mean that companies considering their business as embedded into society and how they can contribute to it by creating real value for direct and indirect stakeholders. By putting sustainability at the core of their business strategy, they are able to create value for the society and environment without trade-offs compromising the value for the customers and shareholders. Instead, these companies stand to make even more money as this presented itself as an opportunity of competitive advantage.
When a company begins their development of sustainable practices, there is a need to scrutinize its mission, vision and values. Furthermore, the company should assess its management structures and strategies to make sure the goals are challenging enough while still achievable (Székely and Knirsch, 2005). No matter the industry an organisation is in, one essential factor to all is innovation. Sustainability presents a unique opportunity for companies to enter a ‘Blue Ocean’ with innovative strategic thinking and innovative products driven by value (Clem, 2012). Laszlo and Zhexembayeva (2011) argues that sustainability is achieved by offering ‘smarter’ solutions without any trade-offs in quality or price. Commonly seen across industries is companies delivering their first ‘green’ or ‘socially responsible’ products as a first attempt at a premium price or compromised quality. This is due to lack of effort put into the process of changing their product or strategy, brought by a hasted process to develop sustainability within the company, which may have been forced upon firms though new laws and regulations. Furthermore, ‘value without innovation’ is unable to make real difference in the market. To achieve anything of greater impact there is a need for development of business solutions which stands out in the market and breaks out of existing paradigms. ‘Innovation without value’ is on the contrary mostly technology-driven and which usually ends up going beyond what normal customers are willing to pay a price premium for. Therefore, when combining these two, companies may benefit more from sustainability efforts as the firm takes on a more holistic view and fully adapts their cost structures and value propositions to customers. It is a strategy
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which unifies the values of the triple bottom line into one ‘value creation space’ (Laszlo and Zhexembayeva, 2011).
2.2.2. Circularity as a Corporate Strategy
D´Adamo and Lupi (2021) argue that moving towards a circular economy is crucial in order for the industry to become more ethical and responsible, both in the aspect of the production side but also the consumption side. The growth of waste, which is the result of the increase of garment consumption, leads to an increase of damage on the planet. Selvefors et al. (2019) further claim that the take-to-waste approach has started to transfer into a circular economy. The aim with a circular economy is to find ways to regain the values of a product and prolong its life by various methods. Recycling and reuse are two methods, but also design for maintenance, durability and repair are strategies commonly used (Selvefors et al., 2019). Corona et al. (2019) further explains the concept of the circular economy as a concept with growing importance within governments, scholars, companies and citizens. In order to move from the linear economy, toward a circular economy, different business strategies are used with the purpose to influence business model innovations and industrial symbiosis. Bundgaard and Huulgaard (2019) further suggests that luxury products per se can be categorised as a business model itself that aims for a circular economy, due to its denoted classical long-life, durable product design, high-consumer service level, premium price, and long warranties.
2.2.3. Communicating Sustainability
Regarding luxury companies' reason for working with sustainability, Kapferer and Michaut-denizeau (2014) argues that their main focus lies within promoting their brand image. This has given rise to the issue of greenwashing and boomerang effects. Critics have recently questioned companies’ real objectives for working with sustainability. The line is blurred as to whether companies have a sincere concern or simply using it as a marketing scam to increase profits. Some argue that it is neither of these two reasons but rather a necessary good needed to serve the customer demands (Fernando and Lawrence, 2014).
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The Luxury Goods Industry
The luxury goods industry can be characterized by its large size, fast growth and alluring margins (Shen et al., 2020). Luxury products and brands are often defined based on consumers’ perception of the brand, due to the fact the luxury goods concept is based on an idealised life, beyond necessity, expensive items and self-indulgence. Sustainability in the aspect of ‘meeting
the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs’ (Brundtland Report, 1987, p.8, as cited in Kapferer and Michaut-denizeau, 2014,
p.2), challenges the luxury industry at its core. The supply chain, from raw material until the product reaches the consumer's hand includes several steps that have to be carefully considered (Kapferer and Michaut-denizeau, 2014). On the other hand, Jaegler and Goessling (2020) argues that luxury goods companies mainly emphasise their sustainability efforts within economic sustainability, where optimising business performance and profit is actually intended.
In order to evaluate the luxury goods industry further, Kapferer and Michaut-denizeau (2014), established one other consistent trend within the luxury goods industry; most often companies start as a small business, for instance as a family business, and stay small even in the future. Some productions are made by hand and aspire to keep their production on a limited volume. This results in an increased possibility for the company to control the whole supply chain, where quality and good working conditions most often are in focus (Kapferer and Michaut-denizeau, 2014: Jaegler and Goessling, 2020).
2.3.1. Changing Consumer Behaviour
In the aspect of changes in consumer behaviour and attitudes, the Millennials and Generation Z have an impact on the market. Generation Y, or the Millennials, are the individuals born between the years 1980 and 2000. Generation Z are the individuals born from the year 2000 until today (Moreno et al., 2017). They are the groups of people that will become the luxury goods industry’s targeted customers. Hence, the importance to analyse and understand what characteristics these categories of individuals possess (Moreno et al., 2017; Črešnar and Jevšenak, 2019).
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As the Millennials and Generation Z are accumulating wealth, their influence in the market will grow, meaning that they will both pose as resourceful investors and potential luxury brand consumers (Moreno et al., 2017; Črešnar and Jevšenak, 2019). In 2017, Generation Z and Millennials were responsible for 32% of global personal luxury sales and it is forecasted to increase to 45% by 2025. This shows, from a global perspective, the increasing influence of this group of consumers in the high-end market (Statista, 2019). The Millennials and Generation Z they set higher demands on their workplace and are more conscious of what they buy and where they buy from (Ahmad, 2019). A broad majority of Generation Z and Millennial consumers prefer purchasing sustainable brands and are mostly willing to spend 10 percent or more for it (First Insight, 2019).
The Millennial generation want to make purchases as an expression of their personality. They care for ethical matters and are comfortable expressing themselves in different ways and want products which resonate with their values or fill an emotional need (Bucic et al., 2012) The Generation Z and Millennial customers are looking for the ‘complete experience’. Hence, purchasing a product is not merely a process of acquiring goods for materialistic reasons, but it is a time for enjoyment. To connect with these customers, luxury goods companies have to adjust their marketing with increased focus on experiences (Fromm and Garton, 2013; Moreno et al., 2017; Yeoman, 2010)
One of the latest trends on the rise is ‘Luxury for rent’. You can now occasionally rent or monthly subscribe to websites where you get to use second-hand designer goods or gain access to exclusive events (Yeoman, 2010). As societies grow wealthier, luxury becomes accessible to more people. New expectations and demands arise as more people want to be consuming luxury in a manner which is sustainable and does not weigh on your conscience, which Wiedmann et al. (2009) showed in their study already a decade ago.
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3. Method
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In this section, the choices regarding the approach for conducting the study are described. The thesis intends to explore the area of how an increasing sustainability mindset affects luxury companies in their business operations and strategies. To answer the questions and analyse the research material, established methods are used to investigate and gather information.
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Research Philosophy
This research follows the interpretivism philosophy. Therefore, to understand the social world by observations and interpretations of what can be seen. The philosophy is grounded in Weber’s concept regarding ‘verstehen’ which correlates to understanding a phenomenon (Bryman, 2016). The aim is to understand the environment in luxury brands and by so using a subjective approach. This means that the social reality is constructed through how the different interviewees are describing their experiences.
In contrast, positivism which is not used during this research, mean that the positivist author is independent from the study and the collected data can be measurable, therefore more suitable for quantitative data (Bryman, 2016). In positivist studies it should be possible to replicate the study, this also affects the reliability of the data. However, under an interpretivist paradigm, the reliability is rather determined by the procedure of the data gathering all leading to the authenticity of the research. Independent from the study and the collected data can be measurable, therefore more suitable for quantitative data (Bryman, 2016). In positivist studies it should be possible to replicate the study, this also affects the reliability of the data. However, under an interpretivist paradigm, the reliability is rather determined by the procedure of the data gathering all leading to the authenticity of the research (Bryman, 2016).
Research Approach
The study was structured according to inductive reasoning. This approach is a reasoning that is creating general conclusions from the sample of collected data, i.e. generalizing out of the
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made observations (Bryman, 2016). A problem might occur where there are gaps in the research field which cannot be explained by logical reasoning. Through observations, these gaps are explored and are explained better than logic arguments which can be found through other approaches. In the case of inductive, theory is applied during the research process and together with the observation, a conclusion is supported. This approach is suitable for a qualitative study because of the smaller sample sizes (Bryman et al., 2019). Inductive reasoning was specifically appropriate for this research due to the aim of exploring the phenomena sustainability through the delimitations chosen for collecting empirics. The process of choosing purposeful objects to interview was done carefully and with consideration of having in-depth interviews.
The inductive approach encounters limitations as it may be troublesome to determine the amount of empirical data needed to build a theory around it (Czarniawska, 2014). However, with interpretivist studies, an exploration and interpretation of a social phenomenon is conducted and the results of may be used for future research and can be generalised to the extent of the majority of Swedish luxury goods companies. Yet, not to assume that all luxury brand operates accordingly. There are other approaches towards obtaining data; deductive and abductive, which have been excluded from being used in this research due to lack of relevance for the purpose and aim of this study. For instance, the deductive approach is a way of testing existing theories. The aim is to deduce hypotheses and then test those with quantitative data (Bryman, 2016). An abductive method is a third way of collecting data which is supposed to be a pragmatic way of reasoning back-and-forth between the social world where empirical data is collected and literature (Czarniawska, 2014). It could be argued that an abductive method would be applicable for this research, hence, it was carefully considered before a decision was made. In conclusion, using abductive as a research approach was rejected due the nature of this research to solely use the theory found in the secondary data gathering process before the gathering of empirical findings began.
Research Design
This research has taken a qualitative design. Linking data and theory, which is conventional through an inductive approach, correlates to qualitative research (Bryman, 2016). The aim is
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to investigate the complexity of the phenomenon through empirical data. The interviewees describe how they view things with which the authors analyse further. The literature review provides background information on the subject with previous research. That could indicate that a deductive method is involved. Yet, since the goal is to derive a theory rather than testing a hypothesis, the method is inductive as mentioned previously.
Research Nature
When the sustainability awareness is globally increasing because of today’s environmental degeneration, there is a growing interest to investigate; What is happening in the industry and
what actions are taken? Thus. the study has been following an explorative nature. Explorative
studies are initially broad but get narrower as the research goes on. With this approach, the research has the advantage of being flexible, and the direction may change depending on the collected data and the insights that they provide (Saunders et al., 2012).
Data Collection
3.5.1. Primary Data
Primary data according to Bryman et al. (2019) is data retrieved for a specific purpose with an indirect response to an investigated problem. This method of data collection gives researchers access to new information through observations, interviews, surveys, emails, etc. Qualitative data is needed to create a contextual framework, be able to draw conclusions within the subject area and create a depth in the study (Collins and Hussey, 2014). As the study investigates established variables and maintains an inductive approach, the choice has been made to collect empirical primary data via interviews conducted with people working with luxury brands.
3.5.1.1. Interview Construction
The structure of the interviews has proceeded through a semi-structured approach with open questions. That is opening up for adaptation for the interviewee. To interview according to semi-structure, the questions were open-ended. The interviews are in their nature unstructured to enhance a more open exploration. That also puts a larger emphasis on the interviewees' own perceptions. Furthermore, the structure was also built upon an interview guide which is visualised in Appendix 1. In the guide, predetermined questions were outlined together with
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certain topics. These were to keep the interview on track for gaining knowledge of the research topic. By going in this line, the process was flexible and most suitable for understanding the several companies' description of the phenomena (Bryman, 2016).
3.5.1.2. Primary Data Selection Process
Generic purposive sampling was used when choosing the companies which are the source for the empirical findings. The decision was made to select organisations that cover different segments within the narrow industry of Swedish manufacturing luxury goods industry. Henceforth, three organisations within the car-manufacturing, home goods and interior design industry were chosen in accordance with the criteria explained below.
The company selection process was based on, first and foremost, that companies were to be considered a manufacturing luxury-goods company selling products to a premium price in Sweden. Furthermore, the companies should be diverse when it comes to what segment they belong to and their size. However, they should still aim to serve the same target customer in order for the results to be comparable. During the selection process, it was found that choosing three companies would be suitable for the purpose of the study. The companies chosen are representing different revenue segments and use different materials and methods for manufacturing. These aspects along with their diverse branding and customer approach, gives a broad view of the industry. Moreover, the companies all target the same customer which is of great importance as it makes the results of the study relevant for the rest of the industry. It was therefore concluded that the three companies were sufficient for the study.
The interviewee selection process consisted of finding the right person at the chosen company; a person with extensive knowledge around what actions in relation to sustainability are being made in their company. Furthermore, it was a requirement for all the interviews to possess a holistic knowledge of the company's business strategies and action plan. In order to ensure in-depth knowledge among the interviewees, one further requirement was to have at least 10 years of experience from working within their respective industry in general; something all selected candidates fulfils (Bryman, 2016).
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Data saturation in inductive research might be unrealistic since the themes that will emerge from the empirics are extensive, perhaps unlimited. Thus, the number of interviewees is selected in advance, accordingly to the generic purposive sampling (Bryman, 2016).
3.5.1.3. Primary Data Collection Participants
The data collection participants consist of three managers active in luxury goods companies operating in Sweden. All participants have the title of manager in some area and have a holistic knowledge of the company's general business strategies and action plans. The participants in this research are the representatives from each company with the most extensive knowledge in the area of sustainability within their respective company, and therefore, are considered relevant to participate in this research. The interviewees’ have participated anonymously, only the representative’s job title, what industry which the company operates within and their experience within the company are mentioned.
Table 1: Participants
3.5.1.4. Primary Data Collection Process
The interviews had equal prerequisites in this research and the interviews were conducted in the same matter. Hence, being consistent and providing the same terms of conditions for the interviewees was of great importance. These terms were, for instance, that they were provided with the same information regarding the subject, the aim for the research and how the empirics were to be used. They also received the interview questions at least one week before the interview which gave them enough time to prepare in advance. The interviews were performed within the same format, video call. In the initial email provided to the potential interviewees, a
Participant Job Title Industry Gender Experience within the company:
M1 Head of Nordic Operations Car-manufacturing Industry Male 15 Years M2 Sales Manager - Sustainability Representative & Specialist Home Goods Industry - Furniture Male 3 Years M3 Creative Director & Brand Manager Interior Design Industry - Wallpaper Female 9 years
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thorough introduction of the topic and information regarding what was expected of them was given. Nonetheless, an emphasis on the process and handling of confidentiality was applied and other credibility aspects were assured. The interviews lasted for approximately 2 hours where all participants agreed to be recorded for the purpose of transcription and truthfulness. During the interviews, one author led the interview, the second took notes and pursued an overall inspection while the last person pursued the initial transcription.
Participants Interview Date Duration
M1 8/4-2021 02:02:17
M2 29/3-2021 01:59:03
M3 19/4-2021 01:48:14
Table 2: Interviews
3.5.2. Secondary Data
To accumulate existing research connected to the research, secondary data have been applied. It includes, but is not limited to, websites, articles, and journals. Bryman, Bell, and Harley (2019) believe that one of the most important steps in a research study is to make a thorough review of available literature in the field. Furthermore, the literature review is essential because this forms the basis for the research in finding the research gap. To create an idea of the subject area as a whole and the information presented from previous studies, the library database at
Search Parameters
Databases and search engines Jönköping University's Library - Primo, Google Scholar
Search Keywords Luxury Goods Industry, Sustainability, Customer Demand, Generation Y and Z, Decision-Making, Organisational Change Management, Organisational Change Management + Rational Approach
Literature Types Academic books and articles, & Journals Language Publication English
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Jönköping University – Primo, have been used, where scientific articles and course literature are available. The literature search is a systematic process that allows the authors to gain an insight into how previous studies have been structured and gain deeper insights and knowledge into the subject.
Table 3: Search Parameters
Analysis Method
Following an inductive approach, there are several analysis methods applicable. The starting point was coding the collected data. It involves analysing and breaking down the content to understand what the data is connected to and what it represents (Bryman, 2016)
The interviews are transcribed and then a thematic analysis is most suitable to follow up with since the themes are acknowledging the different perspectives of the subject. With the coded data, the empirics will be divided into themes and subthemes. The thematic analysis breaks down the large content of the empirics and puts a context on the detailed descriptions. The research requires analysing the interviews and finding specific themes and accordingly, the thematic analysis enables to find empirical insights and a new understanding of the subject (Bryman, 2016). Something that is especially registered when searching for themes is; Repetitions of topics, indigenous typologies or categories, metaphors and analogies, transitions, similarities and differences, linguistic connectors, missing data and lastly, theory-related material (Bryman, Bell and Harley, 2019). The thematic method was used in the same manner through all interviews. This ensured a systematic approach to identify codes and themes. The collected empirics were compared to each other where similarities and differences emerged.
3.6.1. Analysis Process
The six steps of thematic analysis which were performed during the research are explained below:
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1. Familiarizing yourself with your data
Qualitative data can often be extensive. The empirics need to be structured to be analysed properly. This started with looking through the collected material. This could have been the initial notes or the whole transcript. Therefore, the first step was to get familiarized with the material (Bryman, 2016).
2. Initial coding
In the starting process of the analysis, the material was beginning to be coded. Initial thoughts and ideas were pointed out; therefore, it can be called initial coding. In this step, there is usually a process of giving names to different segments of the text (Bryman, 2016).
3. Searching for themes
The third step is putting the effort to consider the different codes, reducing the ones nonessential and finding common patterns which generate themes. The section is turning the codes into themes. A theme is a word or concept that captures some aspects that lead the research in answering the research question. During the analysis, the themes were given some small summaries of what they mean which were done in the form of memos. The code and themes were also given names to simplify the categorization. The themes were then visualised in mind maps and tables (Bryman, 2016).
4. Reviewing Themes
Through reviewing the themes, they can be made more refined. In this step themes that were alike merged and themes that weren't supported by enough data got eliminated. New dimensions were identified among the codes. At this point, the themes should capture the coded data (Braun and Clarke, 2006).
5. Defining and Naming Themes
The initiation of naming themes was already initiated in previous steps. However, now, the previous literature and theory were connected to the themes. The names are reflecting the codes
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that underpin them. By other means, the names capture the data and explain large parts of the data. The names were at this point considered as concepts (Bryman, 2016).
6. Producing the Report
This phase explains that from using the full set of finished themes and producing that into final analysis. The presentation of these shall accurately and clearly explain the findings, i.e. The themes are distinct and can be linked to the research question. The data is presented this way to convince the reader of its validity. That means, with reasoning and quotes to support the findings (Braun and Clarke, 2006).
Research Quality
To evaluate the quality of the research there are a few criteria that are to be considered for the research to be seen as reliable. Trustworthiness is the key term and within this, there are several other criteria to inspect: credibility, transferability, dependability and confirmability.
3.7.1. Credibility
One aspect of determining the trustworthiness of the research is by confirming that the findings hold credibility. This involves that the collected research is presented accurately. To do this, receiving respondent validation is of importance. This is to ensure that the researchers understood the content correctly (Bryman, Bell and Harley, 2019). The interviews were conducted in Swedish, the respondents and researchers' mother tongue. To provide transparency, the interpretation of the Swedish language is presented in an appendix with Swedish quotes translated into English paraphrases. Additionally, to ensure credibility, the researchers individually coded the interviews during the coding process. This involved becoming familiar with the content and pursuing the initial coding. In the step of searching for themes, the codes were discussed among all researchers. This contributed to a more thorough analysis of the empirics.
3.7.2. Transferability
In research, transferability may be used to determine to which degree findings can be generalized. This study is going in-depth into a phenomenon in the social world. Created rich
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descriptions of the area of investigation and research context entail that judgement can be made of the possible transferability (Lincoln & Guba, 1985).
3.7.3. Dependability
The dependability, also referred to as reliability, is to shed light on the research process. To ensure dependability, the research process needs to be performed systematically and all records from the different phases of the research shall be kept for the reason to be able to go back and review the thought process and to see that the accurate procedures have been followed.
3.7.4. Confirmability
The last pillar of the evaluation is concerning the confirmability, which is the objectivity. As this research is built on an interpretive philosophy, the objectivity is affected by unconscious subjective influences. Despite this, the study should still convey that the personal values have not taken over the findings (Lincoln & Guba, 1985).
Ethical Consideration
Within management studies, researchers rely on the guidelines and codes of conduct from neighbouring fields of study. What is important, according to Bryman and Bell (2007) is to realize any possible limitations of such conduct and of the chosen method. In qualitative studies, it is difficult to inform the participants beforehand of the precise nature of the study or where the research will lead as it is exploratory. Considering this, having participants signing a consent form would have become a limitation. Instead, it is more appropriate to adopt a flexible engagement, recognizing the fluid and ever-changing nature of the consent (Bryman and Bell, 2007). In order to overcome any potential issue, precautions have been taken to ensure confidentiality and anonymity of the companies and interviewees throughout the whole research process. The companies were given the opportunity to read their own given information before publication to retract any misinterpreted or faulty information. This was to ensure credibility, and by so, trustworthiness. They were informed beforehand on the purpose of the study and those guidelines that were set in regard to the interviews, such as recording and transcribing of the interviews as well as use of direct quotes.
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Furthermore, ethics are the standards of behaviour expected of an individual, or group, where instead, research ethics are described as the moral codes related to the rights of the ones the research affects. Researchers should indeed question any complex ethical issues they come across. It is right to involve organizations and human subjects within the social sciences, if it is ensured that all ethical consideration, e.g. truthfulness and objectivity, is considered throughout the study (Collis & Hussey, 2014).
The interviews were performed via video-call instead of face-to-face due to the restrictions of the covid-19 pandemic. Performing the interviews digitally might be seen as less optimal from an ethical perspective as it could prove more difficult to ensure impressions and opinions are perceived correctly. However, this delicate matter was considered of utmost importance. Before the interviews, the media used for the video-call was tested and interviewees were informed of precautions to take in order to ensure a quiet and undisturbed environment for the interviews. When the interviews were analysed, other communications techniques such as body language and voice tonality were taken into account as well. Comparing what they said and the matter in which it was said enabled a full interpretation of what they were aiming to communicate in their answers. The benefits of having digital interviews are mainly the cost-effectiveness and the time-efficiency which enabled the authors, without any hindrance, to interview highly positioned managers who have minimal time to allocate.
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4. Empirical Findings
__________________________________________________________________________________________
In this section, the interviewed companies are shortly presented. Thereafter, the empirical findings are summarized and explained.
___________________________________________________________________________
Introduction of the Interviewed Luxury Companies
In the following sections, each interviewed company is presented shortly. All companies are participating anonymously, and therefore, only basic information about the company is revealed to give the reader a sense of context.
4.1.1. Manager 1 (M1)
Manager 1 works in a company that operates within the car-manufacturing industry as importer and general agent. The company belongs to an international corporation and has long experience from working within the Swedish industry. The first product was launched on the Swedish market in the 2000´s and has since been building their organisation and brand reputation in the Nordics. With approximately a yearly revenue of 600 million SEK, the company is defined as a large-sized company. They have been working in all aspects of sustainability since the start of the company and sustainability has now become a core part of the mission.
4.1.2. Manager 2 (M2)
Manager 2 works in a company that operates within the furniture industry and has been designing and producing Swedish luxury goods since the 1940´s when the company was first established. The company has its origin in Sweden and are today selling to Sweden as well as exporting their products. With approximately a yearly revenue of 200 million SEK, the company is defined as a medium-sized company. Having a holistic view of sustainability has been a part of the company’s core business since the establishment of the company.
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Manager 3 works in a company that operates within the interior design industry, with a focus on wallpaper. The company was founded in the 70´s and has its origin in Sweden. They are today distributing and selling all over Scandinavia as well as exporting to major parts of the world. With approximately a yearly revenue of 50 million SEK, the company is defined as a small-sized company. The company has been working with financial sustainability as a long-term perspective in their business model since the start of their second brand in 2012.
Interview Findings
4.2.1. Forces Driving Sustainable Change
When the movement of sustainability is growing, its influence on purchase decisions becomes more and more of a powerful factor that customers consider when choosing the brand to buy from. However, all the interviewed managers agree that when identifying how sustainability drives decision-making in companies, rational arguments are mentioned as one of the main factors that govern the decisions. Rational arguments are factors such as price, convenience, quality and taste which are usually of higher priority than sustainability for the Swedish luxury customer. However, if there were to be an incentive making sustainable products more attractive, it might in fact become the most rational option for the customer, according to M1. This would usually entail receiving some sort of benefit, tax or discount-related. Then, once again the rational argument speaks louder than mainly acting for the climate. M1 furthermore explains that a few years back, the incentive to buy a green car was determined by discounts issued by the government which have had an enormous impact on the whole car-industry in Sweden. On the contrary, with the strong trend of sustainability, both M1, M2 and M3 acknowledge that there might be changes in the view of what drives decision-making. That the discounts are not the main driving factor even though it might boost the sales. M2 does not see the impact of discounts related to environmental factors which M1 suggests it has. M2 argues that even as their products are completely environmentally-friendly from their point of view, with local production and no spill of raw materials, they do not use this for paid marketing as they claim that their focus is rather on the high quality and design classics that are timeless. The higher price of their products is set to match the durable design and long-lasting quality.
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Discounts are therefore not motivated, instead the previously mentioned pillars are the rational argumentations for purchasing the products.
‘Unfortunately, I think it is still the case that the rational argument is more important than the global climate perspective.’ – M1
Above all, it is the financial incentives that drive decision-making. Politics and regulations do affect the decision-making but it is still not the main challenger. M1, M2 and M3 all claim that they believe in their long-term strategies but they always have to bear in mind regulations when moving forward. If not meeting the required environmental standards, set by international and national legislation, the companies may face penalties or bad impact on the brand. Therefore, keeping up to date with the latest regulations and perhaps aiming beyond minimum requirements for the industry. The incentive towards certain products is also related to inducing increased customer demand for those products as mentioned earlier. Thus, companies adapt to sell more for that same reason of financial objectives.
‘There are enormous political incentives that drive the development towards
environmentally-friendly cars... and that makes the customer demand grow and then there is money to be made because you can sell more expensive cars, paid in part with tax money.’ –
M1
Rational arguments of the economic factors are driving the actions for all of the interviewed companies. Rational thinking regarding price and need is ultimately what drives the customer and thus, has a direct impact on the companies. Then there are other economic drivers to consider which as well are related to political incitements making it, more or less, profitable to sell or manufacture certain things. M1 also mentioned that their industry is under constant changes in legislation that needs to be taken into consideration to avoid economic consequences such as fines.
All managers, M1, M2 and M3, argue the importance to not be caught up in the latest trends and incentives. It is important to stick to the main thing of your business and follow the strategies which have proven successful for ages. M2 empathise on the value of doing things well thought out and with the purpose to increase the value of the customer with what they do
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best. M2 goes on to explain that their company’s goals from the start have always been to take advantage of the resources available locally, in the most efficient way, and produce a product of the highest quality. Naturally, doing so was in the beginning for economic reasons and part of the business model, however, it has now proven to stand the test of time and is in its essence, true sustainability. Therefore, the long-term perspective and the corporate values are the most important factors to consider when making decisions, according to all interviewees.
‘A way to have a long-term perspective is to stay for a longer period of time and interact with the resources that are available. If we are such a big player as X, you cannot ignore the environmental impact that your business makes. No matter what political winds blow, you
have to have long-term thinking.’ – M1
‘We must look inwards ourselves and see what our DNA is and where our history is, in order to be able to take the direction that we want. I think it's important. There are a lot of companies that just kind of jump on the next thing all the time without actually thinking “what do we stand for, what do we do”. So I think that is definitely an important part of our
part of really checking out ourselves and not just running like everyone else.’ - M2 ‘I think that we are doing more since we have incorporated it into the design process. With the help of the latest technology we do not need to have stock, but sustainability was actually
not the purpose, the purpose was the business process.’ – M3
M1 argues that as a larger company, there is greater responsibility as the bigger players in the industry have a major impact on competitors and foremost, the customers. They have the power to skew people towards a way of thinking and influence consumers’ decision-making. It is a race to gain market-share by promoting your products’ technology and why they per se are the better option.
‘It is not just about providing a technology, you have to talk down on other technologies. If you have a lot of power and spend extremely much money on advertising, then it is clear
that it affects the public opinion of what is right and wrong. So in that way, it can then affect us on a local level. But I do not think it affects us out of a product strategy level.’ -
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M1 means that competitors' product strategies do not affect their long-term planning, however, it may impact sales in the local market. M1 and M2 mention that a lot of the bigger players in the industry talk about what they want to accomplish but little focus on what they actually are doing. M1 and M2 view this matter in opposite ways. M1 expressed scepticism by criticizing the competitors for announcing gigantic goals while the M2 is rather admiring the astonishing goals set by competitors.
‘X is very clear in saying that their entire vehicle fleet will be electrified in a certain amount of years. They mean it’s the best option for the future but the truth is that they do not actually
have the resources to offer it now but that’s not discussed and that's pure bull-shit. Yes, X is so big and strong in Sweden that they drive the customer’s perception, that I am completely
convinced of.’ – M1
‘We can take X as an example. It is an absolutely fantastic company. So think about the amount they sell every day and actually make these initiatives to be more green. They are
working well with the circular model where they talk about 2030 as being completely circular. It's absolutely amazing if they will succeed with it and then when I look at them, we
have been inspired as well. Then I have no idea as I cannot go back and check the facts of whether it actually is sustainable? But what they communicate is very impressive and
beautiful as well.’ – M2
Furthermore, M3 argues that if you as a company say that you stand for something, then you need to do it. M1, M2 and M3 agree that companies ought to be conscious of the social and environmental context we live in along with maintaining transparency towards stakeholders. Being a sustainable company in the luxury goods industry contributes to creating their brand image but it sets high demands for them to deliver high value for the customer. Historically, luxury goods have been used as status symbols, M1 and M2 argue. Furthermore, changes in consumer behaviour is impacted by Generation Z and the Millennials, as they have an indirect on society as a whole. The self-realization perspective has become more important in combination with aspects of other values that the products and brand possess and the individual needs to be able to associate themselves with. Moreover, M1 emphasis the younger
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generations’ requirement for a unique experience involved with the purchase; more important than the acquiring items for materialistic reasons.
‘From a historical perspective, the car has worked as maybe the most important status symbol in all categories which contributes to one form of self-realization and a proof that one
has succeeded and can afford having an expensive and nice car. The status symbol has in a large extent disappeared for these younger generations. Other things are more important for
them from a self-realization perspective, and the car does not play that role anymore.’ - M1 Both M1 and M2 continue to emphasize the increased trend of no longer needing to own products, which resulted in the companies working with leasing and renting out products instead. M1 claims that this trend is driven by the Millennials and Generation Z, and will continue to grow in the future due to their generally more flexible and mobile lifestyle as well as their lower need to own things as a form of status symbol. This demand from these generations; even though M1 established their average customer to be in the age of 60; has motivated M1 to invent new mobility solutions in order to make the products more accessible for the customers in a user-ship manner instead of owner-ship manner.
‘The drive from these generations is that they, to a decreased extent, own things, but instead use things, like mobility solutions, where leasing also works as a solution.’ - M1
In the aspect of what a premium price should bring, mobility and simplicity is of major importance, M1 and M3 reasons. M1 and M3 are doubting that the customer is willing to pay a higher price in order for the product to be more sustainable, but other values still play a major role in the customer's decision-making. Quality has always played the role as basic fundamental, and M1, M2 and M3 argues that this will continue to be an important aspect in the future. On the other hand, all of the interviewed companies argue that sustainability should, to some extent, be a natural part of luxury brands organisations. M1 and M3 reasons:
‘Luxury today shall be environmentally friendly to some extent…. “I want this and I am willing to pay for it, but it shall not burden my conscience.” I believe that this is the way
