Cosmetics gone green: A quantitative experimental study on green promotional cues and consumers’ purchase intention

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Cosmetics gone green -

A quantitative experimental study on green promotional cues and consumers’ purchase intention

Masters Thesis

Author: Therese Genovese & Charlotte Green Supervisor: Miralem Helmefalk

Examiner: Anders Pehrsson Term: VT21

Subject: Marketing Level: Masters Course code: 4FE25E

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Abstract

In the context of the world's increasing environmental challenges and the rise of green consumerism, promoting sustainable consumer behavior is more important than ever. This study aims at extending the understanding of consumers' purchase intention of environmentally friendly cosmetic products. With a theoretical starting point in theories of green promotion and the theory of planned behavior, a total of ten hypotheses and sub-hypotheses were formulated to answer the research question how green promotional cues

can be used to affect consumers' beliefs and increase purchase intention.

Central concepts in the study’s constructed conceptual framework are intrinsic cues which represent concrete characteristics of a product such as ingredients and formula, and extrinsic cues which are attributes not present within the product itself such as packaging and brand. A quantitative approach using an

online survey in an experimental vignette designed questionnaire generated responses from a sample of 325 participants in three treatment groups, and the data was subsequently examined through statistical analysis. The study’s main findings show that intrinsic cues have a stronger influence on purchase intention than extrinsic cues but that extrinsic cues seem to have a stronger influence on consumers’ subjective beliefs. The study provides implications on how cosmetic companies can use the insights generated by the study when developing promotional strategies for green cosmetics.

Key words

green promotion, intrinsic cues, extrinsic cues, theory of planned behavior, ingredients, formula, packaging, brand, green cosmetic products, consumer behavior, purchase intention

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Acknowledgments

Firstly, we would like to express our deepest appreciation to Miralem Helmefalk, who has been instrumental in guiding us throughout our entire research process with his invaluable contribution and unwavering support and patience. We would also like to particularly extend our sincere thanks to professor Anders Pehrsson who has supported us with practical and insightful suggestions and his extensive knowledge in marketing. We are also grateful to all our family and friends for their continuous encouragement, as without their moral support this paper would not have been materialized.

Therese Genovese Charlotte Green

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List of tables

Table 1 Operationalization of the independent manipulated variables 21

Table 2 Operationalization of the dependent variables 22

Table 3 Summary of respondents for the three survey groups 30

Table 4 Reliability test on all constructs 31

Table 5 Descriptive statistics and Pearson’s correlation for treatment group A 32

Table 6 Descriptive statistics and Pearson’s correlation for treatment group B 32

Table 7 Descriptive statistics and Pearson’s correlation for control group 33

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Table 8 Bivariate model summary for intrinsic and extrinsic mean and

purchase intention 34

Table 9 Bivariate model summary for intrinsic and extrinsic mean and purchase intention 34

Table 10 ANOVA for extrinsic mean and purchase intention 34

Table 11 Coefficient output for intrinsic and extrinsic mean and purchase intention 35

Table 12 Correlations between the intrinsic items 36

Table 13 Model Summary for intrinsic items regression analysis 36

Table 14 ANOVA for intrinsic items 36

Table 15 Coefficient output for intrinsic items 37

Table 16 Correlations between the extrinsic items 38

Table 17 Model summary for extrinsic items regression analysis 38

Table 18 ANOVA for extrinsic items 38

Table 19 Coefficient output for extrinsic items 39

Table 20 ANOVA all groups 40

Table 21 Coefficient output all groups 40

Table 22 Pearson’s correlation for purchase intention and treatment groups 41

Table 23 ANOVA for the beliefs of the three groups against purchase intention 41

Table 24 Coefficient output for consumer beliefs and treatment groups 42

Table 25 Hypotheses summary 43

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List of figures

Figure 1 Full conceptual model 10

Figure 2 Model for green promotion towards purchase intention 11

Figure 3 Consumers beliefs and purchase intention after stimuli 15

Figure 4 Full conceptual model with significance level 44

Appendices

Appendix 1 Surveys 58

Appendix 2 SPSS output 68

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1. Introduction

To begin this thesis, a brief background of the topic will be presented, followed by an elucidation of the context through a problem discussion which gives a concrete identification of the objective while also delineating a purpose and research question along with a report structure to guide the reader.

1.1 Background

Increased public awareness of the environmental issues and rising pro-environmental knowledge and attitudes are influencing consumer behavior towards more sustainable practises, and the rise of green consumerism is changing the consumer landscape (ET2C, 2020). A consumer insight report from Nielsen (2019) shows that a majority (73%) of global consumers say they would definitely or probably change their consumption habits to reduce their impact on the environment. A 2018 study from Global Web Index shows that 61% of consumers state that they are likely to switch to a brand that is more environmentally friendly than their current brand (ET2C, 2020). In the same study, consumers further admitted that they felt most responsible for the future of the planet, but that 52% also believe that responsibility lies with the producing companies (ibid.). This is what makes the subject of green consumption interesting as consumer trends and global consumption patterns indicate that consumers are increasingly concerned about environmental issues, as well as willing to act on those concerns, hence the increased interest for sustainable products is driving businesses to the development of more environmentally friendly products and practises (WBCSD, 2008). One of the fastest growing industries is the green beauty industry (Jaini, Quoquab, Mohammad and Hussin, 2019; Statista, 2020) with many new smaller brands as well as established bigger beauty and FMCG companies developing and promoting green products (Sahota, 2014; Garnier, 2019; Porter, 2021). A commonly accepted definition of a ‘green product’ is a product with a low environmental impact (Sdrolia and Zarotiadis, 2019), but it can also be defined as products that consumers perceive to be environmentally friendly, whether it is due to the types of materials used, the production process, packaging, promotion, and so on (Johnstone and Tan, 2015 cited in Sdrolia and Zarotiadis, 2019). Some definitions further include characteristics such as containing less toxic chemical substances (Mohd-Suki, 2015, cited in Sdrolia and Zarotiadis, 2019) or natural ingredients (Saluja, 2016 cited in Sdrolia and Zarotiadis, 2019). In the cosmetics industry, a green product is often synonymous with natural, organic and ‘healthy’ ingredients (Sahota, 2014). The cosmetics industry has traditionally focused on product messages encompassing efficient formulations (Bray, Johns and Kilburn, 2011), but with the rise in environmentally conscious consumers, it opens up for product messages enunciating and incorporating environmental aspects to their marketing communication. The study is relevant as it will contribute to new knowledge within the field of green promotion as well as implications for green cosmetic companies on how to stay competitive while supporting the advancement of more sustainable consumption patterns.

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1.2 Problem discussion

Over the last two decades, green marketing and green consumer behavior have received a lot of attention in the academic world and generated many scientific studies and literature aimed at understanding what businesses and organizations can do in order to influence consumers' attitudes and behavior towards more sustainable actions and choices (Narula and Desore, 2016). However, while green consumer behavior is well researched, many studies are found to be generic in nature and there are many gaps yet to be filled (ibid.). Firstly, the major shift in consumers’ awareness about sustainability issues has opened up for focus and promotion of green attributes and many consumers are considering the possible environmental impact of the products they purchase and consume (ET2C, 2020). While this shift may be a positive one, there are a variety of challenges that companies may face in their strive to meet the consumers' new needs. Companies need to adapt their marketing strategies in order to remain competitive in the market and support more sustainable consumption patterns. However, to capture the attention of consumers and influence their behavior, companies need to understand their needs and beliefs, to be able to leverage the knowledge and identify which elements or actions that can actually cause an effect (Kalra, 2019). Moreover, it is imperative to mention that consumers differ, which makes the whole process even harder for companies, especially considering the aggressive competition in the accelerating green cosmetic industry (Statista, 2020).

One way of stimulating green consumption is through green promotion which according to Polonsky and Rosenberger (2001), is a means of communicating the green values, alongside the other values that a product has to offer. However, theories surrounding green promotion and consumer behavior are rather novel with many areas still underexplored (Kalra, 2019; Bredahl, 2003) which limits the possibility to turn to the academic field for a deeper understanding of how the two theories work together. Therefore, the lack of knowledge about how green promotion is affecting consumer behavior makes the company's tasks even more challenging, and this is what the thesis aims at resolving. However, Bredahl (2003) suggests that one way of decompounding green promotion is through the use of cues, which help consumers to form perceptions by evaluating a product, but as expressed by Kalra (2019) product elements can be vastly different and not all consumers look out for the same elements within a product. Therefore, the notion of using green promotional cues can become slightly arduous in regards to finding a balance between promoting the actual product and its green values, and it also evokes the question, ‘how much do consumers want to know?’. When companies communicate all product values at once through an advertisement or simply by putting it on their packaging, it can become overwhelming for a consumer to process all information at once (Al Mamun et al., 2020). Therefore, companies need to understand what elements to focus on when promoting a green product, also considering the fact that the consumers who are environmentally conscious have a high awareness about non-environmentally friendly attributes that might deter them from purchasing a product (Chen 2010). For cosmetics, there is also the aspect of risks that the product might have a negative effect on the face or skin (Al Qalati et al., 2020; Al Mamun et al., 2020; Jaini et al., 2019), or even worse on

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Kalra (2019) suggests dichotomizing green promotions into separate notions which help to segregate a product's attributes, and defines green promotional cues as;

intrinsic or extrinsic. Intrinsic cues are stimulants which evoke the core aspect of a cosmetic via communicative signifiers that inform the consumer about the actual product. Companies have been striving to find a way to prove to consumers that their product is environmentally friendly by presenting intrinsic cues such as a list of ingredients or promoting specific ingredients by highlighting them in communication (Sahota, 2014; Beerling, 2013), however one of the main problems is that consumers rarely ever read the entire ingredient list, which means that companies do not really get the chance to present the consumer with the right information (Bredahl, 2003). In addition, not all the consumers have the capability to understand the effect that certain ingredients have on the environment and the skin (Jaini et al., 2019). Therefore it becomes the companies responsibility to try to inform the consumer about the benefits of their cosmetic, if not, then the consumer cannot develop any belief or attitude towards the product, which will in turn affect the company negatively because their chances of the consumer intending to purchase will decrease (Gu and Wu, 2019).

Another issue with intrinsic cues is that they are not the first things consumers see when browsing for products (Kalra, 2019), which could mean that consumers put their beliefs into other cues, such as a brand since this is a cue which is more likely to be encountered before intrinsic cues, therefore consumers might overlook intrinsic information, and this is why it becomes climatic for companies to understand how cues are affecting their beliefs and behavioral intent which is in line with Ajzen (1991). Extrinsic cues refer to the external stimulants of green cosmetic products which allow consumers to identify attributes or information that concern aspects outside the core of the product (Al Qalati et al., 2020; Chen, 2010; Chen et al., 2017).

Consumers usually perceive extrinsic cues through connotations, and for this reason companies need to build and maintain a reputation for consumers to have positive associations and for the extrinsic cues to be effective (Acebon and Dopico, 2000).

Withal, consumers have a variety of cosmetic products from which to choose when shopping, therefore if companies do not utilize the extrinsic cues properly, they will not attract the consumers attention (Lee and Lou, 1996). This means that the consumer is less likely to form an attitude or belief towards the product, as they would not acquire the information, which leads to a greater problem, that if there are no beliefs or attitude, then there will probably be no behavioral intent.

Therefore the research gap of this paper lies within understanding the effects these green promotional cues have on consumers beliefs and how those said beliefs can impact their purchase intentions.

1.3 Purpose

The purpose of this study is to extend the understanding of consumers' purchase intention of environmentally friendly cosmetic products.

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1.4 Research question

How can green promotional cues be used to affect consumers beliefs and increase purchase intention towards environmentally friendly cosmetic products?

1.5 Report structure

In the introduction section, the topicality of the subject is presented as well as a brief overview of current consumer trends, followed by a problem discussion where the direction of the paper is introduced and research gap is addressed. The purpose of the study is thereafter defined and the study’s research question presented. In the following theoretical review, the theoretical base and contours for the study’s suppositions is introduced through previous research and theoretical models. The reasoning and base for the study’s hypotheses and a conceptual model is then presented in the conceptual framework chapter. In the method section, a detailed outline of the research approach and method is described as well as other prevalent methodological considerations. The findings from the study are thereafter presented in the result section and subsequently discussed with basis from the theoretical framework and previous research. In the concluding section, the main conclusions from the study are highlighted, and the paper ends with managerial implications, limitations and suggestions for future research.

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2. Theoretical review

This chapter presents the theories and concepts gathered from scientific sources and books that were reviewed to meet the objective of this study. The chapter is composed of three main sections; green promotion, theory of planned behavior and purchase intention.

2.1 Green promotion

Green promotion refers to the communication that is delivered to consumers from the company, and is done to encourage consumption of environmentally friendly products (Polonsky and Rosenberger, 2001). To promote green products, companies need to understand what is important to communicate to the consumer in order to motivate them to purchase the product. However, consumers rely on their personal perception in order to understand whether a product is up to their standards and expectations depending on the information they receive (Lee and Lou, 1996; Acebon and Dopico, 2000). This information is projected through green promotion which stimulates consumers through the characteristics of a product, and this allows the consumer to determine whether the said product is worth purchasing or not (Bredahl, 2003; Lee and Lou, 1996). A common way of promoting environmentally friendly products is through cue utilization, which helps to segregate the inherent product characteristics (Bredahl, 2003). Cues allow consumers to obtain information about the said product, which they can perceive and determine whether it fulfills their needs, and if so, only then can they form beliefs about the product which can lead to purchase intent (Kalra, 2019; Lee and Lou, 1996). Therefore, cues are the stimuli within green promotion that are used by companies to communicate a message of value to consumers (Kalra, 2019), as they assist consumers to evaluate the product (Lee and Lou, 1996). Kalra (2019) dichotomizes cues into intrinsic and extrinsic to compile the green product attributes.

2.1.1 Intrinsic cues

According to Kalra (2019) and Bredahl (2003), intrinsic cues are based on the concrete attributes of a product. Rahbar and Wahid (2011) explains cues as the nature of the function of that product, which acts as a signifier of its quality and value. Kalra (2019) as well as Acebron and Dopico (2000) add that the aim of intrinsic cues is to guide a consumer to evaluate a product's worth by expressing its function. When the product attribute is communicated to the consumer, it exemplifies the value and quality, and thereby the cues act as a motivation upon which consumers can determine their judgement (Joshi and Rahman, 2015). Intrinsic cues vary depending on the product type, however, Joshi and Rahman (2015) present three ways in which a company can elucidate intrinsic cues for environmentally friendly products, via taste, quality and health, which indicate the functionality. When it comes to the cosmetic industry, Sahota (2014) reveals two prominent intrinsic cues that tend to motivate consumers, ingredients and formula, as they are the indicators of how to determine green cosmetics quality and value. Prior to using the product, the cues act as a foundation upon which the consumer can build their beliefs on, as they elicit the

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6(69) features and attributes of the cosmetic product. However, the intrinsic cues allow consumers to determine their level of satisfaction after using the product, as consumers will gauge whether the cues were factual and reliable and met their expectations, and this will affect their attitude towards the said product, which could potentially lead to purchase intention (Rahbar and Wahid, 2011).

2.1.1.1 Ingredients

Sahota (2014) says that ingredients are one of the two intrinsic cues associated with environmentally friendly cosmetic promotion. Ingredients help to signify the product's inherent characteristics (Kalra, 2019), and therefore cannot be altered (Lee and Lou, 1996). This refers to certain eco-friendly terminology used such as; ‘natural oil’, ‘agricultural plants’ and ‘bacteria’ in order to inform the consumer about what the product includes which helps to determine the quality and value (Lin, Yang, Hanifah and Iqbal, 2018; Sahota, 2014). According to Beerling (2013) companies can also use terminology such as ‘natural’, ‘naturally derived’, ‘nature identical’ and

‘organic’ to deliver a promotional message to the consumer, and these terms tend to generate a higher consumer demand. However, ‘natural ingredients’ is mostly associated with green cosmetics, yet this term is loosely used and does not always necessarily mean that the product is environmentally friendly (ibid). The term

‘naturally derived ingredients’ connotes that some of the ingredients are made from natural raw materials, yet traces of chemically based materials could still be found (ibid). ‘Natural identical ingredient’ refers to ingredients such as: vitamin E, farnesol, L-menthol, ceramides and parabens, which are generally associated with less environmentally friendly cosmetics as they are linked to synthetic and chemically based properties (ibid). However, the term ‘organic’ is one of the distinct and compelling terms as consumers perceive a cosmetic product with this definition to be based on natural ingredients which are cultivated organically (Beerling, 2013).

Organic farming avoids the utilization of any synthetic chemicals, therefore, the general perception of such an ingredient being stated as organic is connotated positively to the overall value that the product brings to the user and to the environment.

2.1.1.2 Formula

Formula, the second intrinsic cue mentioned by Sahota (2014), concerns the entire result that the list of ingredients have when a consumer uses a product. A high-quality formula containing solely authentic natural organic ingredients, free from synthetic ingredients is an indication of a product's efficacy (Beerling, 2013). Efficacy relates to if the product provides the desired results it promises and is a symbol of good quality and value towards a consumer's interpretation of if a product is worth purchasing (Beerling, 2013; Lin et al., 2018; Sahota, 2014). A formula that contains natural and oleochemical ingredients can signify the product's efficacy, as these types of ingredients are known to not cause an irritation to the skin (Beerling, 2013; Sahota, 2014; Lin et al., 2018). Consumers who are more environmentally conscious look out for such terms when they are written as a formula cue, as they are knowledgeable about ingredients that have a negative impact on the environment and their health (ibid). However, with environmental concern on the rise, it is becoming more

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7(69) common that consumers understand the importance of green formulas for cosmetic products due to their long-term effect on the skin (Sahota, 2014). In fact, when the term ‘glycerine’ is used in the formula, consumers perceive as though the cosmetic is kind to the skin as glycerine is connotated to moisture, which is an example of replacing the negatively connotated term ‘oleochemical’ with a more positive tone, as glycerine poses no chemicals (ibid). Overall, formula is another indication of quality, and a green formula elicits that the product is effective and non-damaging to the environment and health (Beerling, 2013). Albeit, a genuine green formula that lives up to the consumers expectations can affect their attitude as it signifies the effectiveness of environmentally friendly ingredients (ibid).

2.1.2 Extrinsic cues

Extrinsic cues are the second set of cues elucidated by Kalra (2019) and aim at communicating characteristics of a product that can be altered without changing the actual product itself but that can influence how consumers perceive that quality of a product (Kalra, 2019). Extrinsic cues are the features of a product that are not physically present within the actual product itself, and can include cues such as;

packaging and brand (Steenkamp, 1989 cited in Acebon and Dopico, 2000).

2.1.2.1 Packaging

Packaging is one of the first extrinsic cues that consumers come across, and is therefore one of the most prominent attributes of a product that has the potential to leave a strong impression on a consumer's judgement (Chen, Hung, Wang, Huang and Liao, 2017; Kalra, 2019). Environmentally friendly packaging is defined as

‘compostable’, ‘biodegradable’ and or ‘recyclable’, and sometimes an additional definition is whether the finished product is also biodegradable (Kalra, 2019).

Packaging attracts consumers' attention and allows them to determine the quality and value of a product, which can lead to purchase intent (Kalra, 2019; Smith and Taylor, 2002). A similar adjudication is presented by Smith and Taylor, 2002, relating to the fact that environmentally friendly packaging has the capacity to affect a consumers perception of how environmentally friendly the product may be, and the stronger the connotation is between green packaging and the green cosmetic product, the greater the chances for purchase intention. However, Joshi and Rahman (2015) express the importance of eco-labelling and certifications being presented on the packaging, which act as added information for consumers to determine how environmentally friendly a cosmetic product is. Labels guide the consumer to understand more about the cosmetic in regards to its ingredients, formula and any other environmentally friendly attributes it may have, while also conveying the brand message, which if correctly assimilated drive purchase intention (Rahbar and Wahid, 2011). Dragan and Petrescu (2013) express that consumers are more likely to purchase products that have certified organic or eco-friendly packaging. Therefore, the combination of packaging, eco-labelling and certificates act as indicators of quality and value to the consumer when deciding to purchase an environmentally friendly cosmetic product (Joshi and Rahman, 2015; Kalra, 2019).

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8(69) 2.1.2.2 Brand

Branding is the second extrinsic cue presented as part of green promotion (Acebon and Dopico, 2000; Chen et al., 2017). The term brand can be defined as a marketing concept that facilitates consumer recognition of a company or product. Brands are intangible but can influence consumers' perception of a product (Kenton, 2020), such as quality. Brand image is based upon several connotations that consumers give to a particular product or service which is associated with a brand. However, when it comes to green brand image, Al Qalati et al. (2020), Chen (2010) and Chen et al.

(2017) describe it as a variety of different impressions and conceptions integrated in a consumers memory regarding a brand, which correlates to the consumers environmental and sustainability concerns. A strong brand image relates to greater perceived quality and value and corresponds to consumer purchasing frequency (Chen et al., 2017; Kalra, 2019). In turn, the brand of a product, especially a green product, has a significant impact on a consumer's attitude, as the brand acts as a symbol of trust (Kalra, 2019). When brands produce green cosmetic products they are differentiating themselves from other brands, however, they are also encouraging consumers to be more conscious, so the concept within itself is a cue to the consumer of the positive activities being performed by the company (Beerling, 2013).

2.2 Theory of planned behavior

The theory of planned behavior, (Ajzen, 1985) stems from social psychology and is designed to predict and explain human behavior in specific contexts, based on the assumption that an individual's behavior is governed by its intention to perform the behavior. The intention to perform the behavior is in turn affected by three types of considerations, attitude to the behavior and the expected result, subjective and social norms, and the perceived behavioral control over performing the behavior (ibid.).

Based on the fact that the theory assumes that the intention can be influenced, it is one of the most widely used theories in marketing and consumer behavior research (Bashir, Khwaja, Turi and Toheed, 2019).Attitude can be positive or negative and is said to be determined by whether the consequences of the behavior are perceived as positive or negative. Fishbein and Ajzen (1975) define attitude as a learned tendency to react in a positive or negative way in relation to a given object based on a salient set of beliefs. Subjective norm concerns a person’s subjective belief of how to act, which is derived from personal values and or prevailing norms and normative expectations in the society or group they live in (ibid.). A person’s willingness to perform a certain action is therefore said to be influenced by how willingly or unwillingly the group wants the person to perform the action (Fishbein and Ajzen, 1975). Perceived behavioral control concerns beliefs of control over a behavior but distinguishes between real and perceived behavioral control. Perceived behavioral control stems from how easy or difficult the individual feels that the behavior can be performed, which in turn is determined based on factors such as resources and ability to perform the behavior or any obstacles the individual sees in practicing the behavior (Ajzen, 1991). Intention is used to predict an individual's intention that is said to lead to the behavior. The assumption means that an individual with a positive attitude, subjective norm in line with the behavior and perceived behavioral control to practice the behavior will have an intention to perform the behavior (Ajzen, 1991). Moreover

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9(69) it is said that past behavior can be a predictor of intention (Ajzen, 2013). While the model has been widely used it has also been criticized for its weak proven causality in relation to behavior over time as well as the assumption that individuals make reasoned and logical decisions that lead to behavior, and does not take into account emotions which is said to be one of the strongest drivers of human behavior (Ajzen, 2011).

2.2.1 Environmental concern

Environmental concern can be described as a person's feeling towards an activity that leads to positive environmental consequences (Nadlifatin, Lin, Rachmaniati, Persada and Razif, 2016). Environmental concern in the context of consumer behavior helps act as a motive for consumers, as they validate their purchase through their belief of sustainable consumption (Al Mamun et al., 2020; Joshi and Rahman, 2015; Mostafa, 2008). Environmental concern generally goes hand-in-hand with environmental knowledge and when joined with green functional product attributes, increases a consumer's purchase intention (Jaini et al., 2019; Joshi and Rahman, 2015; Mostafa, 2008). Aspects of organic product features hold the most significance towards affecting green purchase intention, as consumers who are concerned and knowledgeable are mostly aware of the benefits (ibid.). Environmental concern acts as a motivation for consumers to purchase green products, as consumers also connote green characteristics to environmentally friendly manufacturing processes (Makatouni, 2002 cited in Joshi and Rahman, 2015). The factor of environmental concern is mostly related to an individual's moral obligations and personal norms which relates to subjective norms (Wu and Chen, 2014), which in turn affects the attitude and behavior towards green products (Joshi and Rahman, 2015).

2.2.2 Purchase intention

In the theory of planned behavior, behavioral intention is assumed to stem from beliefs (Ajzen, 1991), and when applying the theory to purchase intention it is presumed that a consumer goes through a series of cognitive phases when forming the intent (Gu and Wu, 2019). By better understanding these phases marketers can improve their understanding of consumers' rationale and thereby form more efficient strategies to drive purchase intention (ibid.). A consumer's purchase intention, that is their mental act of determination to carry out a purchase, is in turn said to be the direct ascendant of behavior and is therefore essential for marketers to achieve (ibid.). The predictors of purchase intention according to consumer behavioral research applying the theory of planned behavior is consumers' attitude, subjective norm and perceived behavioral control. Attitude is their subjective belief in a product or service, derived from their assessment of the likely results using it will bring (Gu and Wu, 2019).

Subjective norm relates to the consumer's beliefs about others' attitude about a product or service (ibid.) and perceived behavioral control is determined by self-efficacy (Ajzen, 1991). The constructs of the theory of planned behavior have been tested in various consumer behavioral contexts and demonstrated relationships ranging from non significant or weak to strong predictors of purchase intention (Chin et al., 2018;

Gu and Wu, 2019; Al Mamun et al., 2020).

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3. Conceptual framework and hypotheses

With the help of the aforementioned theoretical review a conceptual framework is constructed to delineate the relationships between theories of green promotion and the theory of planned behavior. The conceptual framework acts as a pediment for what the researchers expect to find through their research, therefore hypotheses are deduced for each section within this chapter to present the foundation for empirical scrutiny.

Figure 1 Full conceptual model

Within the wide variety of options a marketer has to promote green products,

utilizating cues is one way of highlighting the characteristics of a product that

are important to the consumer (Kalra, 2019). Cues are a way for a company to

communicate the product offerings with the aim of achieving a certain belief

about the product which in turn will lead to purchase intention, followed by

the actual purchase (Gu and Wu, 2019). This may sound simple, however, as

consumers view a product, they start to form an opinion, and as this happens

they construct beliefs, which forms the base of their attitude, subjective norm,

perceived behavioral control, and if these concepts align, then there is cause

for behavioral intent (Fishbein and Ajzen, 1975). Within green consumer

behavior, an aspect of environmental knowledge and concern is often taken

into consideration too, to reflect and evaluate the additional beliefs about

environmental aspects (Al Mamun et al., 2020: Chin et al., 2018). For

aforementioned reasons, many hypotheses were devised to examine the

different hierarchical effects that cues can have both on consumers' beliefs,

followed by their intent to purchase. Therefore, by applying the ultimate cue

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stimulation, it can influence the consumers beliefs and trigger purchase intention and succeeding purchase behavior. Overall, an in-depth explanation of the different parts of the conceptual model and hypotheses are presented in the chapters below.

3.1 Green promotional cues and purchase intention

As expressed in the previous chapter, green promotion can be formed through various environmentally friendly promotions, however, for this research they are segmented into two separate concepts; intrinsic and extrinsic cues in line with Bredahl, 2003 and Kalra’s (2019) distinctions. Both concepts belong to theories of green promotion and each have two separate items that relate to different attributes of a product. The intrinsic items are ingredients and formula (Kalra, 2019; Lin et al., 2018; Sahota, 2014; Beerling, 2013), and the extrinsic items are brand and packaging which are assumed to influence purchase intention (Rahbar and Wahid, 2011; Chen et al., 2017; Kenton, 2020;

Al Qalati et al., 2020).

Figure 2 Model for green promotion towards purchase intention

3.1.1 Effect of intrinsic cues on purchase intention

Many cosmetic companies choose to focus on promoting the inherent

characteristics of a product, and in this case it is done via ingredients and

formula, which are conveyed through intrinsic cues. Previous research

suggests that intrinsic cues are characterized by concrete characteristics of the

product's core, and convey an understanding of its functions and value (

Bredahl, 2003; Rahbar and Wahid, 2011; Sahota, 2014). These cues help to

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underline the functionality of a product, something that consumers are most concerned with, hence why it should be given prominence (Rahbar and Wahid, 2011; Sahota, 2014). Withal, intrinsic cues communicate value, and act as a motivational trigger to drive consumers' purchase intention (Kalra, 2020), and research shows clear indications that past behavior and experience help to form beliefs, which can also predict future behavior (Ajzen, 2011). Therefore, when it comes to cosmetic products, it can be arduous for a consumer to understand the function and value without having tried the product before, and if they have, the belief will be based on the perceived positive or negative consequences of using said product, which in summary serves as a basis for hypothesis 1 (H1).

H1: Intrinsic promotional cues have a positive effect on purchase intention of green cosmetic products.

Within intrinsic cues, Sahota (2014) expresses the importance of ingredients as a way to cultivate a belief among consumers, which is said to be especially important with the type of products that consumers can not feel or try before the purchase (Kalra, 2019). Different ingredients can signal different qualities and value of a product and therefore also trigger different beliefs (Beerling, 2013), however it is argued by Kalra (2019) and Lin et al., (2018), that ingredients overall are a motivating factor for consumers to purchase a product. If consumers have used green cosmetic products beforehand their attitude is learnt based on their previous experience, hence it can be expected that they would already know what to look out for in regards to ingredients.

Therefore, it is reasoned that with the right level of promotion of ingredients on a cosmetic product, a consumer could feel a stronger urge to purchase it. However, to the consumers who are less knowledgeable on ingredient related terms, it is important to note that terms such as ‘natural ingredients’ and ‘naturally derived’ can evoke different reactions but that the term ‘organic ingredients’, is the one that is mostly inclined towards creating purchase intention (Beerling, 2013). For consumers who are knowledgeable within the area of green cosmetics or know what terms to look for in green products in general, could be stimulated when they see ‘organic ingredients’

as this would conform to their personal judgement and previously apprehended knowledge (Beerling, 2013). If these aspects of a consumer's beliefs were to be in line, alongside the ability to purchase the product, then it can be predicted that ingredients stimulate a consumer's purchase intention, in line with Ajzen’s (1991) assumptions of causation, especially if the consumer has past experience (Ajzen, 2013). To summarise, the second hypothesis H1a, builds on the notion that ingredients can affect consumers' purchase intention towards green cosmetic products.

H1a: Amongst intrinsic promotional cues, ingredient cues have a greater positive effect on consumers’ intention to purchase green cosmetic products than formula cues.

Formula is another intrinsic cue that characterizes the core attribute of a product and acts as another way for a consumer to identify cosmetics attributes (Beerling, 2013).

Even though cues of formula can be seen to be similar to ingredients, it is different in

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13(69) regards to how it is presented on a product and what information it consists of (Beerling, 2013; Lin et al., 2018; Sahota, 2014). Thereby, the reaction of how formula affects consumers beliefs and behavior is similar to how ingredients affect consumers beliefs and behavior. Ergo, if a consumer has used the product beforehand or has acquired a learnt belief, then this will affect their judgement and behavior towards the product (Ajzen, 2013; Ajzen, 1991). However, it can be argued that not all consumers have the same level of environmental knowledge, nonetheless green formula should still stimulate the core value and benefits of the cosmetic (Beerling, 2013; Sahota, 2014). The formula of a cosmetic product indicates whether it will have a positive impact on the skin type of the consumer and whether it fits their needs (Sahota, 2014), and this will deliver the information necessary for the consumer to acquire or validate their attitude and subjective norm (Ajzen, 1991). Therefore, if consumers' beliefs and behavior accord, and the product is to their disposable to fit their perceived behavioral control (ibid.), then the notion that formula will affect a consumer's purchase intention towards green cosmetics products is probable.

H1b: Amongst intrinsic promotional cues, formula cues have a greater positive effect on consumers' intention to purchase green cosmetic products than ingredient cues.

3.1.2 Effect of extrinsic cues on purchase intention

As exhibited in the previous chapter, extrinsic cues refer to the promotion of attributes that are exterior to the core of the product (Kalra, 2019), such as packaging and brand.

Many studies elicit different extrinsic cues that can prompt a consumer’s beliefs or behavior, yet packaging and brand are two of the strongest signifiers that motivate purchase decision of a product, especially a cosmetic (Al Qalati et al., 2020; Beerling, 2013; Chen, 2010; Chen et al., 2017; Kalra, 2019). To build up on the notion of the importance of extrinsic cues, packaging and brand are also related, as on the packaging companies use brand characteristics such as logos and colours to exhibit what type of brand it is (Kalra, 2019; Smith and Taylor, 2002). Based on the evidence, extrinsic cues can motivate purchase behavior, hence the constructed hypothesis H2.

H2: Extrinsic promotional cues have a positive effect on purchase intention of green cosmetic products.

Packaging is one of the first things that consumers see and can assist consumers in forming a belief about the cosmetic product by interpreting anticipated quality and by allowing the consumers to distinguish different products (Kalra, 2019; Smith and Taylor, 2002). Packaging is a vast field within itself, however, when it comes to the packaging of cosmetic products items such as; ‘compostable’, ‘biodegradable’,

‘recyclable’ etc., can help to identify the environmental impact of said product’s packaging. However, it can be argued that the term ‘eco-friendly’ has the strongest impact on stimulating consumers' intention to purchase a product, as the term is familiar amongst many (Dragan and Petrescu, 2013). This does not necessarily mean that all consumers are aware of such attributes, unless a consumer has previous experience of the brand or through a subjective belief which allowed them to acquire said knowledge (Ajzen, 1991). Therefore, labels and certificates are also part of packaging and are used as cues to stimulate consumers, which allow consumers to

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14(69) determine whether the cosmetic is a fit for them, which can lead to purchase intent (Joshi and Rahman, 2015; Kalra, 2019). It can also be argued that consumers who have a high level of environmental knowledge will be more likely to understand what certain labels and certificates mean, and these types of cues also allow consumers who do not necessarily have a high level of knowledge to still get informed through packaging attributes of a cosmetic product. This stimulation allows them to heighten their belief and behavior towards said product, as well as to acquire more knowledge from their surroundings which will elevate their subjective norm (Fishbein and Ajzen, 1975). If consumers' beliefs align with the intention, and there is a possibility for their perceived behavioral control to be met, then there is a strong probability that through the use of packaging and labelling, a consumer will intend to purchase a green cosmetic product.

H2a: Amongst extrinsic promotional cues, packaging cues have a greater positive effect on consumers' intention to purchase green cosmetic products than brand cues.

Brand is the second extrinsic cue which is said to have a strong influence on consumers' purchase intention (Al Qalati et al., 2020; Chen et al., 2017; Kenton, 2020). This extrinsic cue has the capacity to affect a person's attitude and subjective norm as there is often some kind of impression about a brand, either through previous learned behavior or through the consumers formed beliefs, or via indications from a social reference group. Brand acts as a pediment upon which consumers base their information from as it helps to indicate whether the brand's product will be worth purchasing, as the brand brings various connotations to a consumer's mind and can predominantly signify quality (Chen et al., 2017; Kenton, 2020). Thereby, it can be argued, with the help of the aforementioned literature, that when a consumer sees a brand logo or other form of brand identification on a cosmetic product, they can acquire knowledge about the product and its attributes, which can lead to intention to purchase the cosmetic.

H2b: Amongst extrinsic promotional cues, brand cues have a greater positive effect on consumers' intention to purchase green cosmetic products than packaging cues.

3.2 Consumers beliefs and purchase intention

According to the theory of planned behavior, an individual's behavior is

conciliated by their behavioral intentions which in turn are formed through

their beliefs (Ajzen, 1991). Even though this theory has been studied for

decades, it’s relevance is still unquestionable and still being applied in studies

as a pediment for understanding consumer behavior in the field of consumer

behavior and marketing (Bashir et al., 2019).

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Figure 3 Consumers beliefs and purchase intention after stimuli

The theory of planned behavior lays the ground to examine whether consumers will intend to purchase a product, and in this context, it will help to identify whether the green promotional cues in question are affecting consumers enough to cause a willingness to purchase as demonstrated in previous studies (Al Mamun et al., 2020;

Joshi and Rahman, 2015; Maichum, Parichatnon, Peng, 2016; Li, Li, Jin and Wang, 2019; Wu and Chen, 2014; Zaremohzzabieh, Ismail, Ahrari, Samah, 2020). Since this study is solemnly focusing on green promotion, it is important to understand whether environmental knowledge or concern is in line with the rest of their beliefs, and this is in line with other studies who have conducted similar research on an added pro- environmental construct to the theory of planned behavior (Chin et al., 2018;

Nadlifatin et al., 2016). Therefore, in order to understand how cues can stimulate consumers' beliefs and intentions towards green cosmetics, the researchers decrepit the relationship that they ought to find through hypotheses presented below. In addition, due to the fact that the cues are segregated in two concepts, two notions of stimulation are derived to examine the cues against consumers beliefs which are discussed in the subsequent section.

3.2.1 Intrinsic stimulation and consumer beliefs

Intrinsic stimulation represents the motivational factors used through intrinsic cues, as when there is stimuli there is an expected reaction which is anticipated from the consumers and they’re beliefs and intentions. One of the anticipated reactions from this stimulation is towards a change in beliefs, which should then lead to a change in intent (Fishbein and Ajzen, 1975). However, a change in beliefs means that attitude, subjective norm, perceived behavioral control and environmental concern need to align. Attitude is said to be one of the strongest predictors of green consumption (Al Mamun et al., 2020; Mostafa, 2008), however, some studies argue that attitude alone cannot predict behavior, hence the implication of the attitude-behavior gap, which refers to a discrepancy between attitude and actual behavior (Joshi and Rahman,

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16(69) 2015). Nonetheless, intrinsic cues have the capacity to influence consumers' belief which will lead to a reaction in their behavior, depending on several factors, such as previous experiences and or acquired knowledge through their beliefs (Fishbein and Ajzen, 1975). However, if the argument is that attitude alone cannot affect actual behavior, then it is possible to claim that attitude in conjunction with subjective norms might affect purchase intention (Ajzen, 1991). Subjective norms refers to the way a consumer feels expected to act based on the social group the consumer conforms to (Fishbein and Ajzen, 1975), therefore, it can be argued that with the help of environmental consciousness, the consumer's personal beliefs could be more inclined towards being environmentally friendly. Therefore, subjective norm could encourage consumers to act more consciously, which can lead to a change in their attitude, as they most likely have acquired a learned tendency about the positive effect purchasing environmentally friendly products has on the environment and their well-being (Al Mamun et al., 2020; Jaini et al., 2019; Joshi and Rahman, 2015; Li et al., 2019).

To an extent, the beliefs of a consumer help to elevate their chances of actually intending to purchase a green product, however, it is important to take into consideration that the cues affect their beliefs, therefore, in order to get a consumer to intend to purchase, it is necessary to make them believe in the product. Intrinsic cues only stimulate knowledge regarding the actual core of the product, and this could affect the way the consumer is triggered. It can be argued that not all consumers have the same level of awareness and beliefs regarding environmentally friendly products, therefore their intent to purchase will also depend on whether they know what to look out for in regards to green cosmetic products. Importantly, perceived behavioral control is another factor that could predominantly affect one’s belief and behavior towards a product, because if they do not have the product available to them then their chances of having an attitude towards the product is lessened. Ergo, the stimulant’s effect is dependent on the consumer's overall belief, which is composed of; attitude, subjective norm, perceived behavioral control and environmental concern, which is hypothesised below (H5). The following hypothesis (H3) assumes that consumers' beliefs with underlying intrinsic stimulation could lead to purchase intention.

H3: Intrinsic stimulation prompts positive beliefs that lead to purchase intention of green cosmetic products.

H5: The experimental intrinsic stimuli has a positive effect on consumers’ beliefs.

3.2.2 Extrinsic stimulation and consumer beliefs

The other stimulated group which is based on the extrinsic cues helps to motivate consumers to form beliefs about a cosmetic product while those said beliefs can lead to intent to purchase. These cues are stimulants of the exterior attributes to the actual product, namely packaging and brand. However, such stimulants mean that consumers' beliefs and behaviors will be different depending on their personal perception. Therefore, the theory of planned behavior is used once again to determine the effect of the stimulants on a consumer's beliefs, and as expressed earlier are composed of; attitude, subjective norm, perceived behavioral control and environmental concern. However, as expressed in chapter 3.2.1, the components of

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17(69) the theory of planned behavior many times need to align in order to determine whether a consumer will intend to purchase. Therefore, in order to identify this relationship it is firstly important to understand that extrinsic cues affect a consumers perception towards a green product as these cues are what give consumers connotations and associations to what the quality of the product is and where it positions itself on the market, which will finally allow them to form a belief about the green cosmetic product ( Chen 2010; Chen et al., 2017; Kalra, 2019; Kenton, 2020). Ajzen and Fishbein (1980) expresses that specific attitudes are more likely to be linked to a specific behavior than a general attitude, which can support the supposition of the importance of environmental attitudes. In fact, Mostafa (2008) explains that environmental attitudes were correlated to environmental consciousness, and related to green purchase intention. As consumers who have a positive attitude towards green products may already connotate extrinsic cues to their intention to purchase, it is also argued that even if a consumer does not have a high level of experience, they can still anticipate the quality of the product based on the connotations they build to it.

Therefore, packaging and brand play a very important role to the understanding of what characteristics within green consumption are affecting a consumer's beliefs and intentions. In this case, attitude and subjective norm are affected depending on whether the connotation meets the expectation of the consumer (Al Mamun et al., 2020; Joshi and Rahman, 2015; Wu and Chen, 2014; Yadav and Pathak, 2017;

Zaremohzzabieh et al., 2020). As mentioned earlier, a similar reasoning is used in regards to how these constructs of the theory of planned behavior, and the additional construct environmental concern, tie in to prompt consumers beliefs, with the underlying extrinsic stimulation, and this is hypothesised below (H6). Consequently, in order to understand the level of effect extrinsic cues have on a customers purchase intention, it is necessary to determine whether their belief has been affected, then it can be decided whether it truly affects purchase intention, which leads to the following hypothesis (H4).

H4: Extrinsic stimulation prompts positive beliefs that lead to purchase intention of green cosmetic products.

H6: The experimental extrinsic stimuli has a positive effect on consumers' beliefs.

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4. Method

The method chapter presents the process the researchers conducted in order to meet the objectives of the study. An elucidation of the researchers' school of thought and approach towards the research topic is clarified, followed by the process regarding how the pediment of theory was gathered. The researchers bring forth the research design and how the collection of primary data was conducted. Subsequently, the data analysis and ethical considerations for quality and validity of the research are brought forward.

4.1 Research approach

Between theory and research lies an interconnection that needs to be established prior to commencing (Bryman and Bell, 2011; Haig, 2012; Kelly, 2016). This study began by apprehending knowledge that surrounded consumer behavior and green consumerism, which led to the encounter of several theories of interest which were summarized to facilitate an overview and deeper understanding of the topic of interest. According to Haig (2012), research which is based upon empiricism, social constructionism and scientific realism is one that meets the philosophy of quantitative research. This gives way to the epistemological and ontological considerations of this research, which are essential since this study commits to the examination of beliefs and behavior, therefore the epistemic practice comes in when determining the already existing reality and knowledge of how consumer behavior and green promotion is currently apprehended. However the epistemological considerations also regard the influence that individuals have when they are exposed to certain experiences (Kelly, 2016), especially since this study conforms to an approach that investigates and examines consumer behavior in an industry that is currently growing rapidly.

However, the ontology of the study takes on an approach that from the data there is a new existence to examine a new reality and knowledge of things according to Kelly (2016). To get to the stage where one can scrutinize the already existing reality of things, a process needs to be implemented where an examination can be carried out.

To do so, a research strategy had to be outlined, and to keep with the logic of the study a quantitative approach was implemented, and this is in line with what Bryman and Bell (2011) define as a quantitative approach.

To further the interrogation, a review from chosen literature was operationalised into theories and deduced into measurable concepts and items that matured into hypotheses for testing, which were confined to deductive reasoning according to Johnson-Laird (1999). The process of reasoning was executed throughout the entire trajectory of this study and gave way for the researchers to determine what they know, and how they know it. This logic helped to determine that there was and still is a reality around the subject of consumer behavior and green consumerism, and even though the field is vast, there are still more phenomena to be explored and some form of reality to be examined and determined. However, as expressed by Bryman and Bell (2011) and Johnson-Laird (1999), to any approach chosen, there is a sense of abductivism, and for this paper it is that sense of inductivism that truly allowed the

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19(69) researchers to review information and data, as the wavering gave way to discover, examine and re-confirm or disprove, to contribute to the field of consumer behavior.

4.2 Research design

4.2.1 Experimental research

The field of consumer behavior is well researched and the research progress within the field is founded on well explored theory, however, when it comes to green promotion, the theories are relatively new. For this reason, the connection between consumer behavior and green promotion is constantly undergoing new research, yet there is still a vast range of theories that need more examination. It is important to also consider that this paper confines to an epistemology and ontology, that there is a reality around us that is always waiting to be discovered, and this reality is continuously changing ( Johnson-Laird, 1999; Kelly, 2016). For this reason there is always new knowledge that can be found and by exposing this knowledge one can identify the known and unknown (Bryman and Bell, 2011; Kelly, 2016). Therefore, the same principle was used when understanding what type of research was needed in order to meet the objective of this study. Since consumer behavior is well-founded and green promotion is slightly more undiscovered, the researchers of this study combine the theories to understand how one affects the other, to understand the causality. In addition, green promotion consists of several elements, which are said to affect consumer behavior, therefore to understand and measure the causality more precisely the researchers concluded that an experimental research design would be suitable. To realise the experiment, manipulated advertising messages based on green promotional cues were applied as stimuli, based on the assumption that it would cause a detectable reaction from the consumers. Only then it would be possible to understand the relationship between green promotion and consumer behavior, which is in line with the explanation of experimental research by Bryman and Bell (2011) and Martin and Bridgmon (2012). Another reason for why the researchers chose to conduct an experimental research design is due to the strong internal validity that behavioral theory has, which is founded on decades of research. But even when applying a theory that is generally accepted and well researched, there are still new ways to apply it and continue to scrutinize it in different settings to generate new results. With the help of strong and generally accepted theories applied in an experimental design, the researchers managed to examine the promotional cues on a more distinctive level and close in on the research gap.

4.2.2 Theoretical review

The theoretical foundation of this thesis comes from a review of literature and previous research in line with recommendations from Bryman and Bell (2011) and Snyder (2019). The main sources used were scholarly reviewed journals, articles, reports and books from electronic databases such as; EBSCO, Elsevier, Jstor, Google Scholar, OneSearch, ABI/INFORM and ProQuest. In certain instances, the researchers also used other sources of complementary information to dig deeper into the inspection of the green promotional cues, however even though the sources might not necessarily fit the requirements to be deemed as scientific, the researchers verified

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20(69) them by making sure that they came from a reliable source, formal language and from its complexity and structure. The literature review began with summarizing relevant material for the purpose and direction of the study. Initial search words used were green promotion, green cosmetics, consumer behavior, purchase intention, but as the literature review continued, other relevant articles were found through what is known as a snowballing effect by reviewing the articles references where the concepts of intrinsic and extrinsic cues were found. Recent topical studies were of most interest but for the well established theory of planned behaviour (Ajzen, 1985) that was identified as relevant for the direction of the study, the original sources were reviewed as a complement to more recent applications. Hence, the majority of the studies published between 2021 and 2013 were reviewed and referenced to enhance the relevance and validity of the subject and its relevance to the field of marketing and consumer behavior.

4.2.3 Conceptual framework

Following the literature review, a conceptual framework was developed to understand and visualise the relationships of the constructs derived from theory. The conceptualisation was a pediment for developing and composing the analytical schema, a process delineated by Bryman and Bell (2011). The conceptualisation of theories allowed the researchers to identify and develop the structure for empirical scrutiny, where the initial step consisted of understanding which of the variables were affecting each other. This thesis used ‘purchase intention’ as the dependent variable when understanding which of the promotional cues (intrinsic and extrinsic) are predominantly affecting it. However, as part of the experimental nature of this study the researchers also applied the overall theory of planned behavior, as well as the added construct environmental concern, as part of the dependent variable towards understanding which promotional cue, when manipulated, was affecting the dependent variable to analyse the regularity of the relationships.

4.2.4 Operationalization of variables

In the operationalization, the study’s theoretical concepts were converted into operational variables, which is in line with the procedure mentioned by Bryman and Bell (2013). Based on previous research and theories about green promotional cues, intrinsic and extrinsic cues were identified as the two main concepts and within those, the most prominent and established items were deduced and defined as well as represented by two sets of stimuli. As a basis for creating and phrasing the questions for the constructs' attitude, subjective norm, perceived behavioral control and intention, Ajzen's guide for question design in research, ‘TPB Questionnaire Construction - Constructing a theory of planned behavior Questionnaire’ (Ajzen, 2013) has been used to follow established formulations as far as possible. Based on the theory of planned behavior, two to three theoretically established items were further formulated as a base for the concepts. For the researchers' addition to the theory of planned behavior, the construct named environmental concern, the questionnaire statements were based on already tested and established statements from previous studies.

Cosmetics gone green: A quantitative experimental study on green promotional cues and consumers’ purchase intention